Ok to get big class d if keeping gains low?

[Ktmrider]

Ok, so for now it will be fine. Future plans are running it at 1 ohm or maybe .75 for a 13w7 if it's doable.. maybe they make a block with 0 gauge in and 1 0awg out/ 1 4awg out.. Ill deal with it when it gets to that point

 

[SRT8 Wolf]

Current setup is a PDX5 putting 100×2 to comps. 50x2 to 8"mids(8ohm) and 450 to sealed 8w7. So the mids are severely underpowered as I tried them in mono parallel at 4 ohm off my sub channel and they came alive and took the power with a 50hz high pass fmod to 200hz L.P..
The new box I built is a huge center console with 1.2cu ft gross for each mid and sub..but output went down a good amount going from ported to sealed on the 8w7. It feels as if it's just craving more power as my gain is almost maxed..

So what if I bridge the 4 channels to the comps and give the sub channel to mids than get a new mono amp for the 8w7 with headroom for a new sub setup in the future.

Stock 105amp alternator in the Silverado..

Looking for 750watts rms at 3 ohm with maybe 1500-2000watts headroom for a new sub setup down the road..

Can I run a huge amp and just keep gains low or by running at a 3 ohm load does it automatically not pull huge Current? Thanks

I'll try to get some pics up

Go with the CAB-1600 look it up on caraudiobargain.com its $200 shipped I have a second one on the way

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Ok, so for now it will be fine. Future plans are running it at 1 ohm or maybe .75 for a 13w7 if it's doable.. maybe they make a block with 0 gauge in and 1 0awg out/ 1 4awg out.. Ill deal with it when it gets to that point

.75 ohm?... I'ts very doable... NOT recommended by the manufacturer tho... I feel at .75 you'll be fine but I DON'T speak for everyone here... you'll likely need to do a little electrical upgrading tho... 0 ga for sure and a different fuse at your distribution block... (250A?)... maybe to be safe... and your ground will need to be 0 ga as well... don't forget the big three... that is something you should do first anyways.... it's cheap and easy, do all 0 ga when you do that so you do not have to redo it... and yes they do make a block as you described, reducers also and then you can keep your current block.... hit me up I've got dozens of fuses in the 200-250 range just sitting here doing nothing... when you are ready... I'll mail you one for free