OK - Now I'm Pi$$ed

[2008screw 10+ year member]

Several months ago, I bought all the stuff in my sig. I am not a newbie with car audio but I am by far an expert. I bought the BA Pro 60's not realizing that they are rated at 3 ohms. Once I decided to bridge my PDX.4-150 amp to give them a nice warm 300 wrms, I called Alpine Tech Support to ask them if the PDX amp will handle 3 ohms bridged. The tech that I spoke to, said yes, it will handle between 2-4 ohms. I thought - well alright, this is great. For the past few weeks I have prepared my F350, dynamating the front doors, and installed my HU, cleaned out the area that I will install my amp rack and subs.

Yesterday, I called Alpine Tech Support again, as I have been having doubts about this 3 ohm bridging business as I have read other threads and responses I have had on my own posts.

This new guy I talked to said the PDX amps have not been tested with a 3 ohm load and therefore can not say if it will or will not go into protect mode. He said give it a try and fined out. They have only been tested at 4 ohms and with slightly lower load. If it does not handle it, it will go into protect mode

Well that just *****!!!!

I went home and took out my DMM and test the speakers. The came up at about 3.4 - 3.5 ohms

I sure hope they work, otherwise, I will only have the 150 wrms per side to hear.

Any recommendations on new set of speakers that are 4 ohms and can handle 200-300 rms?

Or do you think 150 wrms would be ok? I have never heard 150 wrms before, so I am not sure how loud it gets.

I have also heard that the Pro 60's do not sound really good until high watts. Is 150 good enough?

Thanks for all your replies and help.

Click to read more...

 

[ntense702 10+ year member]

150 will be fine, they'll get plenty loud off of that especially since it's gonna be 150 per speaker right?

 

[Decado2 10+ year member]

Your amp will work at 3 ohms, 3.5 is basicly 4 ohms. Like, my subs are Dual 2 ohms , I wired them for a 2 ohm final load, my dmm reads 1.7 , my amp is only 2 ohm stable.

But it works perfect.

 

[bottlebaby 10+ year member]

you can bi amp the pros cant you? wouldnt that help?

 

[2008screw 10+ year member]

150 will be fine, they'll get plenty loud off of that especially since it's gonna be 150 per speaker right?

Yes, 150 per side

you can bi amp the pros cant you? wouldnt that help?

Yes, they can be bi-amped but still only 150 wrms per side. Not sure how much of a diffenrece it would make.

Your amp will work at 3 ohms, 3.5 is basicly 4 ohms. Like, my subs are Dual 2 ohms , I wired them for a 2 ohm final load, my dmm reads 1.7 , my amp is only 2 ohm stable.
But it works perfect.

Lets hope so

 

[SethPhillips 5,000+ posts]

Your amp will work at 3 ohms, 3.5 is basicly 4 ohms. Like, my subs are Dual 2 ohms , I wired them for a 2 ohm final load, my dmm reads 1.7 , my amp is only 2 ohm stable.
But it works perfect.

3.5 is basicly 4 ohms to the amp... i think you will be fine..

 

[jaredspl 10+ year member]

if the amp is 2 ohm stable its gonna be alright at 3 ohms.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

If its a good amp it will work fine....

 

[2008screw 10+ year member]

if the amp is 2 ohm stable its gonna be alright at 3 ohms.

The specs are 2 and 4 ohm stable un-bridged but 4 ohms stable bridged. The tech was unsure of 3 ohms bridged as it was never tested at that load

 

[Immacomputer 10+ year member]

Instead of getting pissed, why don't you just try it? If your DMM is reading 3.5 ohms, then your amp will NEVER EVER see a 3 ohm load. The LOWEST it will ever see is 3.5 ohms and it will pretty much never be there but for an instant. At many frequencies it will be much higher than 3.5 ohms and it will probably rest around 4 ohms. I don't know why a company would say 3 ohm nominal if the DCR is 3.5 ohms though.

Even if they were 3 ohm nominal, I doubt you would have issues. I have ran an old school profile california series amp at 2 ohms bridged all day with no problems.

Oh wait... you want simple answers because you're a simple minded person so here you go: It will work; stop crying.

 

[86yota 10+ year member]

It will work fine. As long as the amp is 2 ohm stable, I dont understand why 3.5 would be a problem?

 

[BEAVER.989 10+ year member]

Even if it doesn't work... Isn't 150W a side enough? If it doesn't work, don't bridge it.

 

[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

Your amp will work at 3 ohms, 3.5 is basicly 4 ohms. Like, my subs are Dual 2 ohms , I wired them for a 2 ohm final load, my dmm reads 1.7 , my amp is only 2 ohm stable.
But it works perfect.

that's cuz i put magic pixie dust on that amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[2008screw 10+ year member]

Instead of getting pissed, why don't you just try it? If your DMM is reading 3.5 ohms, then your amp will NEVER EVER see a 3 ohm load. The LOWEST it will ever see is 3.5 ohms and it will pretty much never be there but for an instant. At many frequencies it will be much higher than 3.5 ohms and it will probably rest around 4 ohms. I don't know why a company would say 3 ohm nominal if the DCR is 3.5 ohms though.
Even if they were 3 ohm nominal, I doubt you would have issues. I have ran an old school profile california series amp at 2 ohms bridged all day with no problems.

Oh wait... you want simple answers because you're a simple minded person so here you go: It will work; stop crying.

Thanks for the reply.

I got pissed because I was planning on it and I thought I was getting the correct information from a professional person at Alpine. That is it. If works bridged, I am happy, if it does not, then I either go with the 150 or find new speakers. Not sure why you have to insult me again. I am over the other post, not sure why you can not get past old threads. Get over it man.

BTW, Your reply and others that have responded is what I AM looking to get in an answer. - Thanks again. It was informative and helpful.