Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

[MDH69]

Ive heard of some choosing to use an inline fuse from the new alternator to the battery...Is this neccessary and if so, do you choose a fuse that equals your alternators amp rating? or smaller?

 

[MDH69]

Ive heard of some choosing to use an inline fuse from the new alternator wire direct to the battery...Is this neccessary? and if so, do you choose a fuse that equals your alternators amp rating or smaller?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Ive heard of some choosing to use an inline fuse from the new alternator wire direct to the battery...Is this neccessary? and if so, do you choose a fuse that equals your alternators amp rating or smaller?

Yes. As long as your wire is rated for that amperage or higher.

 

[MDH69]

Thank you for the response

4g ofc copper..its only a 95amp alternator...400rms for complete system..amp is fused at 50amps..radio maybe 10 15amp?..amp wire (4g ofc) ran under 10ft so its good for 120amps at its limit.

 

[Rrosario]

I’m stuck I wanna know what yah think .. excuse my spelling ..so my set up is what I have listed above 2 (12s ndy ) and three tweeters prv in a Brazilian box. I got the PRV SQ9000X 1 Ohm . Which I was told is over kill for just two speakers so I have the choice now of making another Chuchero box with the same set up or buying 4 horns and making a driver box . For a loud clean set up would you just stick to another set up like I have now 2 12s ndy or get the “Drivers” . And if you say drivers which ones . As you know if I get the drivers ima need another amp I was told help me out I have for bass 2 kicker l7 12s.... and I gonna drown out the bass also would be another question of mine

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for the response

4g ofc copper..its only a 95amp alternator...400rms for complete system..amp is fused at 50amps..radio maybe 10 15amp?..amp wire (4g ofc) ran under 10ft so its good for 120amps at its limit.

100 amp fuse would be fine.

 

[Rrosario]

[QUOTE="Popwarhomie, hey would you be able to help me bro I got a few questions I posted them up please

 

[2023 LTZ]

Anyone had problems after big3-7 on an impala limited? 3.6 v6
I keep frying batteries or one cell of 5 new interstates 2 were agm.
I used 0ga ofc welding cable, crimped the copper ring terminals and heat shrank each end.the voltage of 13.8-15.2 didn’t concern the tech at the dealership when it was there for something else. Interstate is convinced my car is responsible for this. No cel or battery light.
Additional grounds of alternator case, new bolt from engine to added hole in aluminum engine cradle as well as a distribution block by amps that is bolted to the metal between trunk and passenger compartment.
I originally had 0 throughput but reduced battery positive to fuse box to 4ga as well as original ground from battery negative to metal cross thing behind headlight. I’d increased alt positive to batt pos and original ground to 0000 using crimped heat shrank terminals then went back to 0. All to no avail.
Jvc Kwv960 bt
Jvc kvw 850
Sony xv5500
Rf 1000 + rf 600
Then rf1500 + rf400
Focal inside
2-12s at 2 ohm ported in rear.
These changes in wire size and components has no effect on battery longevity. Last one went in September 22’ hard starting and my warranty is null.
Best Buy install guy doesn’t see a problem
Chevrolet doesn’t see a problem
Crutchfield can’t speculate
Interstate insists it the vehicle or something with it or the wiring.
I’d love to get this resolved as buying another battery is fine but not if it only lasts a few months.
Any leads to a resolution are greatly appreciated.

 

[2023 LTZ]

Anyone had problems after big3-7 on an impala limited? 3.6 v6
I keep frying batteries or one cell of 5 new interstates 2 were agm.
I used 0ga ofc welding cable, crimped the copper ring terminals and heat shrank each end.the voltage of 13.8-15.2 didn’t concern the tech at the dealership when it was there for something else. Interstate is convinced my car is responsible for this. No cel or battery light.
Additional grounds of alternator case, new bolt from engine to added hole in aluminum engine cradle as well as a distribution block by amps that is bolted to the metal between trunk and passenger compartment.
I originally had 0 throughput but reduced battery positive to fuse box to 4ga as well as original ground from battery negative to metal cross thing behind headlight. I’d increased alt positive to batt pos and original ground to 0000 using crimped heat shrank terminals then went back to 0. All to no avail.
Jvc Kwv960 bt
Jvc kvw 850
Sony xv5500
Rf 1000 + rf 600
Then rf1500 + rf400
Focal inside
2-12s at 2 ohm ported in rear.
These changes in wire size and components has no effect on battery longevity. Last one went in September 22’ hard starting and my warranty is null.
Best Buy install guy doesn’t see a problem
Chevrolet doesn’t see a problem
Crutchfield can’t speculate
Interstate insists it the vehicle or something with it or the wiring.
I’d love to get this resolved as buying another battery is fine but not if it only lasts a few months.
Any leads to a resolution are greatly appreciated.

I’ve found a solution.
The ground for the voltage sensor wasn’t adequate.
Now system is all it should be.
Ohm from alternator to brake rotor is 0.08.
From front battery neg to alternator 0.01, yes less than the leads of the dmm.
Strut tower to tower 0.03
Alternator to strut tower 0.03
Back battery negative to rear rotor 0.1 so some resistance there.
That sanded hole in between trunk and passenger compartment in which I used to ground amps and later rear deep cycle completed this ground perfection.
Cannot express how pleased I am to have that charge issue behind me.