Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

[danny1mmafan]

View attachment 26548574 View attachment 26548573 View attachment 26548572 View attachment 26548575 View attachment 26548576 View attachment 26548577 View attachment 26548578 Ok got my big 3 installed wait more like big 5. Lol I think I have enough grounds let me explain how I ran mine.

Pos batt to alt with 300 anl fuse. Thats normal.

Batt ground to frame right were the stabiliser bracket meets the frame and chassy.

From frame ran another ground across the stabliser bar to frame.

The from frame up to bolt on alternator.

Then from bolt kn alternator to engine block.

Then from bolt on alternatot back to ground on batt.

So lets see thats a total what 6 grounds and 1 positive so big 7 upgrade. Lol I think its a little over kill bjt will be fine for for my system.

Oh yeah this was a 2004 ford ranger 4.0 6 and my system not finished but will be 4 ab xfl I 2 2 ab 150.1 strapped to .5ohms 1 rf 100x4 to rf 6.5. And 6 big 6 voltgolf cart batt ran parellel for 12 volt these batts are 190 ah each so I have plenty of batterys. And all 1/0 wire ran.

 

[Ramrod]

Quick question.. I keep trying to search it but its not bringing up what I need...

I have a Car with the factory battery already in the trunk. With 1/0 Factory wire running from Alt. to Battery stock...

I know to 1/0 the Grounds, but I was told to run a 1/0 power from Alt. to Starter too... Is that true????

 

[Ramrod]

Quick question.. I keep trying to search it but its not bringing up what I need...
I have a Car with the factory battery already in the trunk. With 1/0 Factory wire running from Alt. to Battery stock...

I know to 1/0 the Grounds, but I was told to run a 1/0 power from Alt. to Starter too... Is that true????

Someone has had to come across doing a BIG 3 on a Factory Rear Mounted Battery before....

So far I have upgraded..

Battery - Ground(chassis)

Alternator - Ground(chassis)

Now I still need to add a 1/0 from Alternator to Starter???? Do I fuse that wire?

Also I'm thinking of adding a Block to Chassis Ground

 

[Ramrod]

TTT... No one has input?

Would running 1/0 from Alt. to Starter cause Noise in the system or run to much power through the Starter...

I already have 1/0 running from the Starter to Battery from Factory...

Should I just make a run from Alt. to Battery and be done with it? Could that cause an odd Charging of the Battery? I wouldn't think so? Since one wire would be routed though the Starter and the other a straight shot.

 

[speedyjuarez]

TTT... No one has input?
Would running 1/0 from Alt. to Starter cause Noise in the system or run to much power through the Starter...

I already have 1/0 running from the Starter to Battery from Factory...

Should I just make a run from Alt. to Battery and be done with it? Could that cause an odd Charging of the Battery? I wouldn't think so? Since one wire would be routed though the Starter and the other a straight shot.

I'm no expert but I would think you shouldn't run anything straight from the alt for power wire. I assume the alt to batteries serves a purpose for safety. Plus the purpose of the alt is to charge your batts, then you use your batts charge to turn on your starter.

Search big 4 on youtube that guys explains it very well.

 

[Ramrod]

My alternator feeds my batteries through the starter from factory..I believe.

My battery is in the trunk and i have 1/0 running from the battery up front to the starter...from what i can see. I dont have any 1/0 coming off my stock Alt....so i guessing it starts from the starter and goes back to the battery. Ive got to get back under it and really track down where it ends up front... i have a fuse box under the hood that has 1/0 feeding it too.

 

[Ramrod]

My alternator feeds my batteries through the starter from factory..I believe.
My battery is in the trunk and i have 1/0 running from the battery up front to the starter...from what i can see. I dont have any 1/0 coming off my stock Alt....so i guessing it starts from the starter and goes back to the battery. Ive got to get back under it and really track down where it ends up front... i have a fuse box under the hood that has 1/0 feeding it too.

Ok figured some of this out..

The LX, Charger, Challenger and 300.. Have wire Close to 1/0 running from the Rear Battery to the Fire wall. Once it hits the Fire Wall. It splits into 6g to the Power Dist. Block, 4g to the Starter and a 4g to the Alternator... So from the Alt. there is about 2ft at the Most that is 4g then it jumps to 1/0 the rest of the way back to the Battery.

 

[ccapital83]

I have a 14 civic and have been told this about the big 3 is this really true? "No point on doing this on any Honda until there is a way to bypass the ELD shunt is found. It wont solve the dimming, flickering headlights, or draining of batteries if you have an amp hooked up to the battery. Alternator output is being controlled by load detected through ELD and current flowing though the ignition fuse system".

a few others have confirmed this exists and makes the big 3 pointless on new civics anyone have experience with that?

 

[Falcons]

I have a 14 civic and have been told this about the big 3 is this really true? "No point on doing this on any Honda until there is a way to bypass the ELD shunt is found. It wont solve the dimming, flickering headlights, or draining of batteries if you have an amp hooked up to the battery. Alternator output is being controlled by load detected through ELD and current flowing though the ignition fuse system".
a few others have confirmed this exists and makes the big 3 pointless on new civics anyone have experience with that?

No experience but from what I've gathered from other people is that is true. It detects unneeded voltage so it in essence shuts down the alternators capabilities to increase mpg. On a side note where in ny you from?

 

[ccapital83]

so basically do not to waste my time on big 3 there's a good "chance" it will literally do nothing? I use to live on Long Island now upstate

 

[ummduh]

When installing the big 3 does it matter the length of positive wire from batt to alt I mean if I try to hide the 1/0 I use about 7 feet if I go straight a ross the mototr I can do less just curious. Same for grounds is shorter better on grounds?? Thanks.

I mean, yes, length does matter, but only so much as if you're properly sizing the wire to begin with.

Starting off with 1/0 wire the length isn't going to be any kind of issue, as I doubt your alt isn't putting out enough amperage to need anything close to 1/0 in the first place. My apologies if you are running an alt in excess of 300A.. but then you probably wouldn't be asking this question.

 

[FuDao]

谢谢@Thanks！

 

[Ace87]

Had a quick question. I was just doing the big 3, and only got the battery negative to chassis done, and the alternator positive to battery positive done. I did not get to do the engine block to chassis yet, due to not having a big enough socket to complete the job right now.. the socket set I have to loosen the last bolt is 1 to 2 sizes too small, so I gotta wait until I can either purchase the needed tool, or find someone to let me borrow theirs. So my question is, is it ok if I drive the car around for a week or two or something with just 2 of the 3 wires done on the big 3 for now, or is this really bad to do?

 

[BanginBishi]

Quick question. After measuring up the first two wires I'm split between where to put my second ground. I'm going to be grounding from the alternator bracket and either

A. Following the stock grounding path (~2ft) to where the stock ground is located (Also right at, or 6" away from my battery ground.)

B. Going around 8" or less to a spot where there's a plate connected to the frame, put it in the gap and clamp her down there.

Reasoning for option B is "shorter path, less resistance, yatta yatta." I'm running 2/0 OFC if that matters.

Which should I go with?

Thanks in advance guys.

 

[wew lad]

Quick question. After measuring up the first two wires I'm split between where to put my second ground. I'm going to be grounding from the alternator bracket and either

A. Following the stock grounding path (~2ft) to where the stock ground is located (Also right at, or 6" away from my battery ground.)

B. Going around 8" or less to a spot where there's a plate connected to the frame, put it in the gap and clamp her down there.

Reasoning for option B is "shorter path, less resistance, yatta yatta." I'm running 2/0 OFC if that matters.

Which should I go with?

Thanks in advance guys.

pics? id go with b and leave the stock wire where its at, as long as there's no big differences in metal between point a and b. i.e. a panel with low contact, a weld, change in pieces of metal.

when you say clamp it in there use a ring terminal closest to the body metal as you can get and sand it down well. ive seen people strip their wire and just put it under a washer, use a terminal lol