Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

instead of running out 0AWG onto TB3, could i just leave the existing 4AWG runs & then add 3 runs of 8AWG onto the connections..??, so 1x 4AWG & 1x 8AWG per connection..??

im thinking the difference between changing the 4AWG for 0AWG will be pretty much the same as what i described above..?? no..??

 
instead of running out 0AWG onto TB3, could i just leave the existing 4AWG runs & then add 3 runs of 8AWG onto the connections..??, so 1x 4AWG & 1x 8AWG per connection..??

im thinking the difference between changing the 4AWG for 0AWG will be pretty much the same as what i described above..?? no..??
What is TB3?

I already said to leave the stock wires if you can and just add on, but I definitely wouldn't add 3 runs of 8 AWG that's just dumb, do 1 run of 1/0 and be done with it, then you don't ever have to worry about upgrading it again (unless you go huge in the future)

 
What is TB3?
''the big three''....

I already said to leave the stock wires if you can and just add on, but I definitely wouldn't add 3 runs of 8 AWG that's just dumb, do 1 run of 1/0 and be done with it, then you don't ever have to worry about upgrading it again (unless you go huge in the future)
right...... cheers!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Do the ground wires need to be less then 3ft like with ground wires from an amp? I cant really find any engine block bolts within 3ft of a chassis ground.

 
Do the ground wires need to be less then 3ft like with ground wires from an amp? I cant really find any engine block bolts within 3ft of a chassis ground.
No, it's just generally a good idea to keep them as short as possible. The point of grounding the engine block is to ground the alternator chassis so if you can easily use one of the alternator bolts, go for it.

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/moon.gif.9d317aec3339ffe7fde0638df52c628a.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/boink.gif.91933e72f927f2cefc79aff02573090c.gif

and your engine block is setting ON the friggin chassis. if you can't find a bolt within 3ft, you got a huge ass engine and or car.

 
So if I'm gonna do my pos alternator wire, and I have an external regulator, I need to somehow go through it? Never done an ext. reg. before

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/boink.gif.91933e72f927f2cefc79aff02573090c.gif
and your engine block is setting ON the friggin chassis. if you can't find a bolt within 3ft, you got a huge ass engine and or car.
Or, a heat shield is in the way, and Id rather not melt wires by taking the shortest route.

 
I know this is probably in this thread 90 pages ago but when doing the big 3 do you have to do the wires to the fuse box also? Or could I just skip the alt to fusebox, and go straight to the battery with an added inline fuse?

 
2 questions:

1. Do my chassy to engine block wire need to start at the same point as - battery to chassy wire ends so it's basically a continuation of it?? Or can i start runnig my chassy to engine block a few feet away from the point where -battery wire ends??

2. where do you guys buy wire loom for 0g wire?? I'm gonna use Rockford's 0g and every wire loom i've found is either too big or too small.

 
I know this is probably in this thread 90 pages ago but when doing the big 3 do you have to do the wires to the fuse box also? Or could I just skip the alt to fusebox, and go straight to the battery with an added inline fuse?
you can go from the alternator straight to the battery. I dont see it being a problem, as you are just adding.

 
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