Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

well, i started the big 3 on my Audi A6... only got the batt. negative added so far (lack of time for one, and cant find a way to do the other 2 yet)

has 120amp alternator... and i only added the battery negative for now.

Results:

used to be at 12.5-12.8v at idle, now is at 13.9-14.2v at idle... i say thats pretty good for a left over piece of 4g power wire and 10 minutes...

 
I'm suprised with all the kits for everything out these days there isn't a "Big 3 install kit" available. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Big 3 on a mazda 6 S (3.0L V6) is a *****, alternator is under the engine. Have to take off front passenger tire and jack up the car to access it.

Just letting you all know, and I did mine! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
would it be ok to use the strut bolts as the grounding spot? how about grounding both the battery and engine block to ground at the same spot?
I have my battery and block grounded at a common place and it's been working fine.

As for the strut bolts question, it depends on the car. As long as you can get a clean contact with the chassis your fine.

 
I use my rear strut bolts for ground, so the front should be fine. As far as grounding at the same spot I'm not sure. All my grounds are in different places. I imagine it shouldn't be a problem though, just make sure it's a clean surface with no paint on it.

 
what size fuse should use for the alt to batt.i used rockford 2 ga wire i have 100 in there right now my alt is 130 amp??????
fuse the amperage rating on the wire. Not the load going through it.
Shouldn't the fuse on the wire going from Alt to Batt match the size of the factory fuse under the hood. In my case 2000 Explorer was 175A.

 
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