Noob here with a towncar

[Cedarguy86]

I have an 07 towncar new to the audio world excuse my lack of knowledge. is it possible to have best of both worlds??? I want super clean crisp sound up front and yet I still like the bass that runs through your bones. I’ve found pictures online where guys have ported subs through the rear deck. I’ve been searching for high end sq speakers for the front sets. Guess my question Can I put high end component speakers in the doors and port subs through the deck in back for the pounding bass or does it not work like that. All information is greatly appreciated

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[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Yes, ditch the rear deck speakers and get some good components up front. You may be able to buy/build custom kickpanels for your fronts which is a good location for good sound.

Last towncar I built was 1980 but I think the trunk is still that awful shape. It is extremely difficult to get good bass out of that trunk and about your ONLY good option is 4th order bandpass with the port up through the rear deck. This is not simple to pull off so you had better either be handy or be willing to pay a competent shop for best results.

 

[Cedarguy86]

Yes, ditch the rear deck speakers and get some good components up front. You may be able to buy/build custom kickpanels for your fronts which is a good location for good sound.

Last towncar I built was 1980 but I think the trunk is still that awful shape. It is extremely difficult to get good bass out of that trunk and about your ONLY good option is 4th order bandpass with the port up through the rear deck. This is not simple to pull off so you had better either be handy or be willing to pay a competent shop for best results.

I’ve been reading in other forums about porting thri rear deck. My consent is if I was to seal them off on the ledge above the gas tank would I still be able to keep trunk space or do I have to make one ridiculously huge box the size of the trunk hahaha I’m not looking for numbers or competitions or anything I’ve just seen sq cars in person and they literally blow my mind with the quality of music. But I’m still young at heart and love that feel of the bass pounding thru your body when it hits hard. But in that same sentence I want it all to sound clean an crisp not a rattlebox that’s all distorted. I’ve been searching morels for the front components they seem to have very great stats and reviews anyone’s thoughts on them? I’ll research the 4th order band pass thank you for the info

 

[Carlos1son]

Get a W7 for your trunk that should suffice

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I’ve been reading in other forums about porting thri rear deck. My consent is if I was to seal them off on the ledge above the gas tank would I still be able to keep trunk space or do I have to make one ridiculously huge box the size of the trunk hahaha I’m not looking for numbers or competitions or anything I’ve just seen sq cars in person and they literally blow my mind with the quality of music. But I’m still young at heart and love that feel of the bass pounding thru your body when it hits hard. But in that same sentence I want it all to sound clean an crisp not a rattlebox that’s all distorted. I’ve been searching morels for the front components they seem to have very great stats and reviews anyone’s thoughts on them? I’ll research the 4th order band pass thank you for the info

You could certainly build a box to fit up on that ledge that could get you some good sound up into the cabin, it's just a ***** of a place to really get into to do anything. Ideally you want to completely seal off the trunk from the cabin too for best results so whatever isn't your port you'd install some wood (easy) or sheet metal (hard mode) and fill in the gaps as best you can to keep down cancellation from sound wave bouncing back into the back of the trunk.

Perhaps if you determine the precise dimensions you want to work with and tell us how much power you're trying to run someone can chime in with a sub choice that would perform well in 4th order bandpass. 4th order can be made to sound good and it is the best way short of just walling off at the B-pillar to get big sound out of that sort of vehicle. You can likely brute force it and just use a lot of cone area and power in the trunk to get some decent bass in the cabin but then you will need to go to extreme lengths to sound deaden that trunk so that it doesn't turn into the kind of trunk rattling hood-rat mobile that you don't want. Going brute force would likely require pulling the spare tire out and using most of that well below the shelf.

I have seen only one build local using Morrel but that guy seems happy with them. They're expensive enough and well regarded in DIY car and home audio community you should be fine. For more accessible brand names I've always had great results with JBL/Infinity. CDT had a big sale last week and I picked up a few sets of their components on the cheap, I've had good luck with them in the past as well but IDK if they're still running the big blowout sale.

Honestly it's going to be more about speaker location, good aiming and prepping of locations then processing power if you want to really dial in great sound. Pretty much anything from reputable brands after you get out of the entry level lines will be capable of sounding good if you take some care in your install and buy either an outboard DSP or a nice head unit with some good EQ, crossover, and time alignment type features built in.

 

[Cedarguy86]

You could certainly build a box to fit up on that ledge that could get you some good sound up into the cabin, it's just a ***** of a place to really get into to do anything. Ideally you want to completely seal off the trunk from the cabin too for best results so whatever isn't your port you'd install some wood (easy) or sheet metal (hard mode) and fill in the gaps as best you can to keep down cancellation from sound wave bouncing back into the back of the trunk.

Perhaps if you determine the precise dimensions you want to work with and tell us how much power you're trying to run someone can chime in with a sub choice that would perform well in 4th order bandpass. 4th order can be made to sound good and it is the best way short of just walling off at the B-pillar to get big sound out of that sort of vehicle. You can likely brute force it and just use a lot of cone area and power in the trunk to get some decent bass in the cabin but then you will need to go to extreme lengths to sound deaden that trunk so that it doesn't turn into the kind of trunk rattling hood-rat mobile that you don't want. Going brute force would likely require pulling the spare tire out and using most of that well below the shelf.

I have seen only one build local using Morrel but that guy seems happy with them. They're expensive enough and well regarded in DIY car and home audio community you should be fine. For more accessible brand names I've always had great results with JBL/Infinity. CDT had a big sale last week and I picked up a few sets of their components on the cheap, I've had good luck with them in the past as well but IDK if they're still running the big blowout sale.

Honestly it's going to be more about speaker location, good aiming and prepping of locations then processing power if you want to really dial in great sound. Pretty much anything from reputable brands after you get out of the entry level lines will be capable of sounding good if you take some care in your install and buy either an outboard DSP or a nice head unit with some good EQ, crossover, and time alignment type features built in.

Thank you so much absolutely appreciate all the information I’ve gotten so far I’ll post up in few days out of town for work at the moment but I do plan on soundskining the entire car. I will get dimensions of the ledge and space I have to work with. I’m assuming if I port it up through rear deck and the ledge is sealed off the subs will be firing towards back of trunk???? I apologize about sounding like a dumb@&& haha I’ve always just threw together mismatched speakers in the past got huge amp and pounded some juggernauts lmao but I’d like to actually make this build clear and neat I know it’s not a highly customizable car but I love them and I’m in the process of rodding out a 40’s Lincoln so that too will have to have a nice build in it as well !!!! Name brand stuff doesn’t matter to me just want something that will get me where I want to be. There really isn’t any custom sound shops near me but I have found some few hours away I’m sure after I get stuff installed they could help me get everything tuned or I’ll just keep bugging you all on here for info . I’ll post some pictures when I get back home too if the ol beast

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Thank you so much absolutely appreciate all the information I’ve gotten so far I’ll post up in few days out of town for work at the moment but I do plan on soundskining the entire car. I will get dimensions of the ledge and space I have to work with. I’m assuming if I port it up through rear deck and the ledge is sealed off the subs will be firing towards back of trunk???? I apologize about sounding like a dumb@&& haha I’ve always just threw together mismatched speakers in the past got huge amp and pounded some juggernauts lmao but I’d like to actually make this build clear and neat I know it’s not a highly customizable car but I love them and I’m in the process of rodding out a 40’s Lincoln so that too will have to have a nice build in it as well !!!! Name brand stuff doesn’t matter to me just want something that will get me where I want to be. There really isn’t any custom sound shops near me but I have found some few hours away I’m sure after I get stuff installed they could help me get everything tuned or I’ll just keep bugging you all on here for info . I’ll post some pictures when I get back home too if the ol beast

The old Lincolns are really hot looking restored or done up. I really love them for driving and looks but they're among the worst for easy car audio installs.
Google "4th order bandpass" for an idea of what you'd be aiming to do. The sub is sealed within the box and all sound comes from a port. So the sub would be completely concealed within the box and only the port(s) would come up through the rear deck. Again, the trick is just pulling it off, you'll need to be handy with carpentry and get creative. You could probably get it done with some PVC pipe. Pipe can be internal or external on the box so you might even be able to build a box back or off to a side in the trunk and just use some elbows and straight pipe to PVC up and out the rear deck where the factory rears would come through. I'd consider that if the logistics of getting up on the shelf seem impractical after you get in there with a tape measure and start trying to draw something out on paper.

IF you do a bandpass box ported up through the rear deck you shouldn't need to worry about deadening the trunk, just sealing off the rest of the rear deck or the small bit between back seats and the trunk (which is probably already mostly steel and heavily deadened from the factory). Luxury cars generally don't require a ton of deadening, at least not on the floors, roof, and firewall.

 

[nauc 10+ year member]

cant go wrong speakers...

Image Dynamics
Morel
JL
Dynaudio


subs, i like Fi for the $

how much room do you have for a sub box... WxHxD?

what deck?