Let me start off my saying I am EXTREMELY mechanically inclined, and the only reason I have a "mechanic" is so I can call him to order me parts at his discount //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif
Alright, alright, may have over exaggerated that a lil, all I'm tryin to say is I learn and adapt quickly in an automotive environment. That being said, I have very little working knowledge on the vastness that is aftermarket car audio. I have always been content with what ever I had, but over the last few years, I have expanded my use of equipment.
So here's the situation:
Vehicle:
1997 Suburban K2500 LT
Head Unit:
Alpine CDA-9886 [almost] installed
I just picked up a pair of Alpine SPR-60s and SPR-60Cs, but the component's are missing the tweeters. Also a set of Kicker K410s for the 'back back' in the ceiling.
None of these speakers are yet installed. I just got them, and know I need an amp to make it worth while.
Also have [currently installed] a JL 15w3 powered by a Sony Xplod, not sure on it's model# but it's a 2 channel that's bridged for sub use. It's been 'on it's way out' for a while since I've had a Rockford Fosgate Power T10001bd ready to take it's place. Just haven't had the time (or the wiring).
What I aim to get out of you fine folks here on the forum is advice as to what 4 channel amp would best suit the needs of my equipment. I am already leaning towards the RF Power T8004 purely for aesthetics, even though it will be under seats //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Would the Alpine KTP-445A be enough, or does thinking that it would show how much of a noob I am at this haha.
Should I find myself an alternate new set of tweeters? Or will it even matter?
I know my current rear speakers (meaning the pair in the rear doors AND the ones in the ceiling) are on an auxiliary factory amp. I had to adjust my new metra harness when installing head unit to accommodate the remote turn on wire for it.
I'm assuming I'm going to have to disable or bypass this factory garbage somehow right?
I read somewhere that when you 'splice' on speakers to same connection, you cut your ohms in half, is this correct? Definitely something to keep in mind picking out an amp if so.
Thanks in advance for the advice!
Alright, alright, may have over exaggerated that a lil, all I'm tryin to say is I learn and adapt quickly in an automotive environment. That being said, I have very little working knowledge on the vastness that is aftermarket car audio. I have always been content with what ever I had, but over the last few years, I have expanded my use of equipment.
So here's the situation:
Vehicle:
1997 Suburban K2500 LT
Head Unit:
Alpine CDA-9886 [almost] installed
I just picked up a pair of Alpine SPR-60s and SPR-60Cs, but the component's are missing the tweeters. Also a set of Kicker K410s for the 'back back' in the ceiling.
None of these speakers are yet installed. I just got them, and know I need an amp to make it worth while.
Also have [currently installed] a JL 15w3 powered by a Sony Xplod, not sure on it's model# but it's a 2 channel that's bridged for sub use. It's been 'on it's way out' for a while since I've had a Rockford Fosgate Power T10001bd ready to take it's place. Just haven't had the time (or the wiring).
What I aim to get out of you fine folks here on the forum is advice as to what 4 channel amp would best suit the needs of my equipment. I am already leaning towards the RF Power T8004 purely for aesthetics, even though it will be under seats //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Would the Alpine KTP-445A be enough, or does thinking that it would show how much of a noob I am at this haha.
Should I find myself an alternate new set of tweeters? Or will it even matter?
I know my current rear speakers (meaning the pair in the rear doors AND the ones in the ceiling) are on an auxiliary factory amp. I had to adjust my new metra harness when installing head unit to accommodate the remote turn on wire for it.
I'm assuming I'm going to have to disable or bypass this factory garbage somehow right?
I read somewhere that when you 'splice' on speakers to same connection, you cut your ohms in half, is this correct? Definitely something to keep in mind picking out an amp if so.
Thanks in advance for the advice!