new to "the game", where to start?

[MisterDeadeye 10+ year member]

How do you mount a tweeter where there isn't a spot for it to be mounted? Or do you mean like the speakers with the tweeter mounted to it?

 

Thanks to you also!

You find a way to mount them. People typically drill holes in their pillars to mount them, or mount them on the dash. A lot of people even put them in their doors. You can look at the build log section of this site to see different ideas in that regard. Component speakers will allow you to have better control of sound than coaxials(you can move the different components around to change the soundstage to your liking, etc.). Like others have said, I think you should get rid of the dash speakers entirely, run a component set in the front, and have coaxials in the back if you really feel the need for them. Unless you'll be carrying around a bunch of people that need to feel close to the music, I say get rid of them completely as well. That allows you to focus more on the fronts.

You'll likely notice a vast improvement in sound if you get deadener. Your best bet is to go to Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information and read through everything he has to say. Audio Technix is the cheapest and best way to go for that aspect of sound deadening, and B-stock should be fine. If you want help with deadening your vehicle, go to the website above and e-mail the guy. He's very knowledgeable and will be able to help you.

What are your stock speaker locations? I see you listed an adapter from SonicElectronix on your list of things to buy.

Also, I'd rethink nearly everything on that list. I wouldn't buy Rockford subwoofers or amplifiers. The only thing on the list that I agree with is the battery terminals. I actually have those exact same ones, and they're great.

 

[MisterDeadeye 10+ year member]

Oh, and here's what I'd do if I had ~$1,250 to spend in your vehicle.

DieHard Platinum -- ~$200

Audio Savings | Cadence 0G100-BLUE 0 AWG Gauge 17 Feet Car Amp Power Wire Cool Cable Technology

Audio Savings | Cadence F200-2 500 Watt Peak 2 Channel Car Audio Amplifier + 8 Gauge Amp Kit

Audio Savings | Cadence F1200-1D 2400 Watt Peak 1200 Watt RMS Mono Car Amplifier+2 Gauge Amp Kit

Two of these: Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer 295-467

Buy a Massive Audio VK6 set from Tallc on here -- $75(I think)

And I'd leave out $200-$250 for deadening products.

So factoring $250 for deadening products, that comes in at ~$1,120. That leaves you enough for a distribution block and custom box for the Daytons. I'd be happy.

The 0 gauge would be for the big three(search for it here if you don't know what it is), and you should have about half of that left over(maybe less). It probably also seems like I'm hugging Cadence's nuts, but you can't really argue with how cheap and reliable they are. Based on the posted specs, those amps will be better than anything else new that you would find in the price range, and Cadence's wire is good wire; I don't think I'd be happy with the stuff you posted.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I was hoping you would reply, lol.It's been pretty lonely and quiet in here lately, haha.

It's such a relief to see a reply!

I didn't think they would be necessary, and I hear they're pretty annoying to change, so I didn't know if I should do that.

Also, should I invest in sound deadener? Like this:

Audio Technix Sound Deadener - Better than Dynamat - B-Stock

 

 

 

And I'm getting mixed responses about what type of battery to buy.

Optima Yellow Top or Red Top?

Here's two of the responses I got on other forums about this:

 

Okay, will it be worth me buying the red top over some other alternative battery? I don't have any plans on using a secondary battery, unless I absolutely need it. Thanks for responding.

I need to look into the difference between component and coaxial speakers.

What is a "6.5 mid range speaker"?

How do you mount a tweeter where there isn't a spot for it to be mounted? Or do you mean like the speakers with the tweeter mounted to it?

 

Thanks to you also!

Agreed, getting to the mounting locations on a dash is often a nightmare and requires some real ingenuity or unusual tools. De[ending on your expectations you may not even need to treat the doors. I'm one of the doubters on the whole topic of one brand VS. another. Often some companies have promos or "B-stock" deals. I personally go with whatever is cheapest and have, in the past, used "alternative" methods with fine results.

Simple, cheap, and effective door treatments - DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality

Actually a good read with plenty of pictures... more food for thought.

I also prefer component speakers (separate tweeter and mids) but as you say mounting them does require some cutting (or at least a couple holes) in a panel. Really I think if you have good stock locations that coaxials can sound great. There's plenty that sound fantastic on 50w or less power and they avoid all phasing issues due to the single point that the sound originates from.

I would ask if you have LISTENED to any of the coaxials you planned to buy? My definition of good sounding highs may be quite a bit off from the sound you're after.

As far as batteries I also like the Sears Die Hard Platinum. I bought one for an auxiliary battery a couple years ago and it worked well and now I'm using it as my primary. At least = Optima as far as performance and supperior warranty, price should be comparable and you can often find a 10-15% off Sears coupon to help out a bit. (or sign up for their charge card and get a % off purchase type of deal)

Oh, and here's what I'd do if I had ~$1,250 to spend in your vehicle.
DieHard Platinum -- ~$200

Audio Savings | Cadence 0G100-BLUE 0 AWG Gauge 17 Feet Car Amp Power Wire Cool Cable Technology

Audio Savings | Cadence F200-2 500 Watt Peak 2 Channel Car Audio Amplifier + 8 Gauge Amp Kit

Audio Savings | Cadence F1200-1D 2400 Watt Peak 1200 Watt RMS Mono Car Amplifier+2 Gauge Amp Kit

Two of these: Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer 295-467

Buy a Massive Audio VK6 set from Tallc on here -- $75(I think)

And I'd leave out $200-$250 for deadening products.

So factoring $250 for deadening products, that comes in at ~$1,120. That leaves you enough for a distribution block and custom box for the Daytons. I'd be happy.

The 0 gauge would be for the big three(search for it here if you don't know what it is), and you should have about half of that left over(maybe less). It probably also seems like I'm hugging Cadence's nuts, but you can't really argue with how cheap and reliable they are. Based on the posted specs, those amps will be better than anything else new that you would find in the price range, and Cadence's wire is good wire; I don't think I'd be happy with the stuff you posted.

^^^^^

A very good plan here. I would also trust Dayton and Cadence for solid performance and value. Another amp for the fronts I'd reccomend, email or call Stephen at Zedaudio (ZED Audio | Where no amplifier has gone before!) and ask him about the new-old-stock Boss amps. They are great sounding made in USA and very reliable. I know for a fact he has a few left (bought one for a souvenier when I went out to Cali this winter). He said he was turning out 1000 a day in the early 90's and hasn't ever seen one come back blown up. I have installed a few for friends and guys really like them.

I also don't use distro blocks normally, but they can be made to look nice and are effective. Use one or just run 2 separate amp kits and run separate wires, at the end of the day you'd never notice performance difference and price should wind up about the same for you so do whichever you like the looks of or feel comfortable with.

 

[PwnFx 10+ year member]

What all does an entire system consist of?

Or the parts I'll need to be buying, anyway.

4-6 Speakers, depending on dash speakers or not (probably not)

Subs + Enclosure

Amp for the Subs

Amp for the Speakers

Wiring for the speakers, Big 3 upgrade parts, possible new battery terminals

What all wires are needed, and how many of each? I'm looking at these links but not knowing what I'm looking at.

Is there somewhere online I can buy a custom box? I don't think there's anyone near me that could make it for me.

 

-I haven't listened to any speakers, because there's nobody around that sells anything other than Alpines (BestBuy) and a few low end brands/speakers.

 

As far as deadener, I'll stay away from it for now, if I feel that I need a little something else, I'll get it in the future.

 

I hope I didn't miss any key points to reply to, lol.

 

[Gregulate 10+ year member]

I also don't use distro blocks normally, but they can be made to look nice and are effective. Use one or just run 2 separate amp kits and run separate wires, at the end of the day you'd never notice performance difference and price should wind up about the same for you so do whichever you like the looks of or feel comfortable with.

I do this for my two amps and it works perfectly. I do, however, use one common ground for all three pieces in the trunk.

 

[EpicMango 10+ year member]

Good to see someone that wants to learn and actaully has a decent budget... How much space are you willing to give up for subs stage' date=' Do you just want to do a substage or mids and highs as well, and what goal are you wanting SQ or Loud?[/quote']
This part made me laugh. I swear Bettr n' Revrse once I graduate from college I'll spend decent money on a system I SWEAARR

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

This part made me laugh. I swear Bettr n' Revrse once I graduate from college I'll spend decent money on a system I SWEAARR

Hahaha well that's good... Just gets so old reading threads or to deal with in person people that want this bad ass system and have a couple hundred bucks lol...

 

[PwnFx 10+ year member]

If I were to just buy speakers for now, would I need an amp?

 

[d77543020 10+ year member]

I would just keep it simple a 4 gauge wireing kit no need for a battery upgrade if it's a small install and big 5 channel amp and your done

 

[d77543020 10+ year member]

If I were to just buy speakers for now, would I need an amp?

You could run your speakers off the deck but why just do it right the first time