New to me truck needs refreshed

[joker0907 10+ year member]

Ok, I got a 2005 GMC Sierra and speakers sound like crap and still has the stock HU. This set up I will probably be going pretty budget on because this is the first time I am not actually going to go for much SPL but mainly just good sounding music. I listen to just about every genre of music from country, rock, rap, dubstep, to classics and even instrumental. Thinking of just buying a premade sub box for under the seat to fit one 10" sub and then replace the stock speakers which should be a set of 6.5's and a set of 4x6's. One thing I have noticed, I don't have any markings for the Bose sound, and I haven't had the door off yet, but I swear I see a tweeter above the 6.5 also. I haven't found anything online about these trucks having 2 speakers up front. I was going to co with Coax up front unless that is a tweeter in there and then I will get a set of comps. Really would like to put it all together with a 5 channel amp instead of putting 2 amps in.

So far Ideas have been: (haven't looked at comps because I didn't find anything online about them having that tweeter, but I will see about taking door off and finding out, or if anyone here has info on them let me know)

Front:

6.5 american bass - or Polk db series - infinity refs

New Pair American Bass Sq6.5 6.5" 2 Way 160W Car Audio Speakers 160 Watt 6 1/2" - Newegg.com

Rear:Same idea as front

Sub:

I really haven't thought much on this. Will need to be something that likes a small sealed box, was thinking maybe infinity ref, or something like that. Trying to stay around the $100 mark

Amp:

I looks at the Hifonics 1200w 5 channel, or the PPI 900.5 or the RE RE Audio SA 500.5 (sa5005) 1600W 5 Channel SA Series Full Digital

Please give me any suggestions, things you would change because I am an idiot or something. I haven't made a build since my last car. My GTI I had an Eclipse 12 with an old school USA MTX amp (cant remember the wattage) and had Alpine speakers all around. Wasn't fond of the alpines but loved my Eclipse. I think i put that in back in like 08 or something like that.

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[joker0907 10+ year member]

After reading some on this site more I think I have changed my mind. I will most likely go with a set ID CTX65's for the front and just leave the back alone. Seems everyone says the back isn't as important. Think I may go ahead and match the idea and just get a ID 10 or 12" sub as well. The PPI 900.5 amp would still work good for that set up as I would just bridge the highs and still send 200-400 wrms to the sub depending on if 4 ohm or 2 ohm.

 

[dsw1204]

Do you have a budget for each of the components you will be acquiring?

 

[joker0907 10+ year member]

i don't want to really spend more than $150 on the front speakers, and up to $150 on the sub. The box I am getting is a prefab so it matches the truck, unless there is someone here that makes them that can make it match. The PPI 900.5 i Believe is ~$215 on amazon and that is about what i would want to spend. I think it should be plenty for me, unless there is something that is completely better in same ballpark.

 

[dsw1204]

i don't want to really spend more than $150 on the front speakers, and up to $150 on the sub. The box I am getting is a prefab so it matches the truck, unless there is someone here that makes them that can make it match. The PPI 900.5 i Believe is ~$215 on amazon and that is about what i would want to spend. I think it should be plenty for me, unless there is something that is completely better in same ballpark.

If you can use component speakers instead of coaxials, I'd do the Polk DB6501 two-way components (right now about $120 on Amazon). Components will always sound better than coaxials if they will fit.

Also, I think you'd do well to look at DD Audio LE-M08 for the sub. It's $219 but the enclosure is included and the sub is designed for that enclosure. If that is too large or a box, maybe look at JL AUDIO CP108LG-W3v3. This is another 8" sub that is designed for the box that it comes in. This is a little more expensive (paying for the JL name, LOL), but the enclosure is smaller than the DD LE-M08.

For your amp, I'd look at the NVX JAD900.5 5-channel amp. This is a nice little amp with more flexibility than the PPi 900.5. It has not only high and low pass filters, but has a bandpass filter. This will allow you to go active with this amp, if that is what you want to do later on. If not, the PPi should be okay.

Just some suggestions.

 

[joker0907 10+ year member]

Thanks for the ideas, you would Polk over ID? Set of ID components for 139.99. I remember I liked Polk back in the day, but figured since they went to Bestbuy and I think Walmart I just figured quality would have went to crap by now. I will have to see if I can't find someone that can build the box, because the ones I am finding now aren't in tan and the ones I do find are the MTX Stealthbox and a JL audio one which are both out of my price range. That amp seems pretty nice, may actually go with that one.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

If you can use component speakers instead of coaxials, I'd do the Polk DB6501 two-way components (right now about $120 on Amazon). Components will always sound better than coaxials if they will fit.
Also, I think you'd do well to look at DD Audio LE-M08 for the sub. It's $219 but the enclosure is included and the sub is designed for that enclosure. If that is too large or a box, maybe look at JL AUDIO CP108LG-W3v3. This is another 8" sub that is designed for the box that it comes in. This is a little more expensive (paying for the JL name, LOL), but the enclosure is smaller than the DD LE-M08.

For your amp, I'd look at the NVX JAD900.5 5-channel amp. This is a nice little amp with more flexibility than the PPi 900.5. It has not only high and low pass filters, but has a bandpass filter. This will allow you to go active with this amp, if that is what you want to do later on. If not, the PPi should be okay.

Just some suggestions.

The ppi and nvx is the exact same amp.

 

[the727kid 10+ year member]

I would go with the IDs over the Polks.

 

[joker0907 10+ year member]

So then ID up front, might just throw a cheap set of 4x6's in rear because the stock just sound blown and I wouldn't want anyone in the back to have to hear that. Have the ID's ran on the PPI 900.5, and currently looking at having a sub box made to fit and match the truck because the prefabs all come with subs included (MTX, or JL) and I just don't feel they are worth it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So then ID up front, might just throw a cheap set of 4x6's in rear because the stock just sound blown and I wouldn't want anyone in the back to have to hear that. Have the ID's ran on the PPI 900.5, and currently looking at having a sub box made to fit and match the truck because the prefabs all come with subs included (MTX, or JL) and I just don't feel they are worth it.

make sure its the CTXcs as in component speakers and not coaxial for the front. The rear honestly doesnt matter at all so yeah throw whatever in there.

 

[joker0907 10+ year member]

Ya going with the component set, hvaen't took the door off yet but when looking through the speaker "grill" on the door panel i see what looks like the 6.5 and the tweeter unless they painted that on or something.I will definitely check before I order because I can't find anything online showing the door with the tweeter there but they do show a 6 speaker package for my truck so that would make sense.

 

[dsw1204]

If you go with the ID components (and you should if you can), that would be a comparable choice to the Polks I mentioned. I did not realize the PPI amp and the NVX were the same, so if the PPI is less expensive, then that would be the way to go.