New To Forum - Humble Ambitions

Hookah

Junior Member
I am an auto enthusiast, a long time music aficionado, and admirer of audio in general. Though my primary passion is modifying cars, I have collected speakers and music for years and enjoy finding various ways to record music across different mediums.

I have not been a serious audio fanatic until recently, now recognizing the beginnings of falling into car audio obsession, perhaps a natural next step in car modification as I start to focus on custom interiors in more detail.

As with everything in my life, the biggest accomplishment will be creating something for next to nothing, pulling every trick in the book and inventing some new ones to reach my goal, choosing effort and creative skill over money.

The Good: I have a stockpile of speakers from a lifetime of collecting, albeit of varying quality and applications. I have an unlimited supply of raw resources, a healthy portion of spare electronics, and a decent amount of tools to utilize (for enclosures, appearance, wiring, etc.). I can record and transfer music from Vinyl all the way to MP3 from virtually anything that produces sound, which may not be unusual nowadays.

The Bad: I am learning as I go, granted I am a fast learner out of necessity. I have virtually zero budget, allowing for new items occasionally when I have money to burn.

This is my mishmash setup to learn what I'm doing. Am I on the right track?

My current setup...

-Head Unit (spare unit after my JVC KD-R330 died): Pioneer DEH-1400, LPF for rear @160 Hz, simple 3-band equalizer (still tweaking)

-Tweeters: 2 Kenwood 301432 (JL-707) positioned at Roof/Windshield/A-Pillar corner, adjustable, thinking about adding a third tweeter in center dash or mid-upper console.

-Front Speakers: 2 6.5 Kenwood KFC-1690ie positioned at outer kick panels facing between seats, built ported mini-tubes for them but they won't fit in this location (yes, they sound better and hit harder in them, shaking the whole tube, rear end tapers to 1.5 inch hole after about 10 inches).

-Midrange: Infinity 6.5 positioned at lower center console in short tube enclosure, thinking about replacing with tiny speakers hidden in upper console beside head unit.

-Sub #1 : 8" Sony SSwg990 @6 ohms, located behind/between front seats with box pressed against seats (a seat shaker) facing forward/upward, playing up to 160 Hz (HU LPF), ported enclosure. I've had this speaker for 16 years and love it. It is potent, with big excursion that can be seen in several YouTube videos as this little speaker has a way of growing on people.

-Sub #2 : 12" Rockville RVB12.1A, positioned at back of trunk facing rear, playing up to 80 Hz, ported enclosure.

-Power (Spare amp after Rockville 300 RMS died): Kenwood Bridged KAC-648S, 70 RMSx2, LPF @80 Hz for 12" and no filter on 8" (filtered by HU), yes I'm under-powered at the moment.

-Scosche Wiring Kit

Master Plan...

-Goal: Having the best possible setup within the budget... Optimal sound imaging, balanced quality and range, powerful volume.

-Head Unit: A reliable unit with CD/Aux/RCA, a respectable equalizer, and enough power to decently push my front speakers without an external amp... no need for fancy screens or features I will never use.

-Tweeters: I'm not picky with these. I actually already have plenty to choose from.

-Front Speakers: 2 nice 6.5s in custom kick panels

-Midrange: A true midrange speaker with dedicated crossover.

-Bass 1: 2 good 8" subs placed low in the rear corners of the cab in custom enclosures/panels that blend into the interior changing the shape of the cab altogether, playing the higher sub frequencies.

-Bass 2: A potent 12" sub in the trunk, playing the lowest lows, letting the 8s take over at just the right overlapping frequencies.

-Power: A modest 600 watt RMS total, 300 for the 12 and 150 for each 8, a 4-way bridged for the 12, with good controls.

-Other: This particular car could use some sound deadening in areas, as it has had about 200 pounds of weight reduction, although you can't tell by looking at it because of the meticulous upholstery. I wouldn't be averse to adding some lighting effects, or even a more complicated system to put on little shows for my friends if I can find a way to build it myself for cheap.

I have speakers from 1" to 6.5s to 6x9s to 15s, but it would be nice to build a system with brand new dedicated components, and I think I can do that in the manner listed above for $500. There is much to learn before that point though.

The top candidates for this audio makeover are a Nissan NX2000, Nissan NX1600, and B13 Sentra, all compact cars and two of them hatchbacks, which I think are ideal candidates for this endeavor.

Thanks for lending me your wisdom and for having a welcoming community //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Cliffnotes?
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OP is passionate enough about audio to write a short biography.

OP has hoarded a pile of low to mid tier mainstream equipment much of which may be a bit outdated.

OP is on a shoestring budget.

Spoiler alert: OP will learn that less is more, that some things you just can't cheap out on and get good results.

Anyway, welcome aboard. As I said, less is more, if you want good sound keep it simple. You absolutely don't have the budget for the processing power needed to run a dozen speakers and not become an acoustic nightmare. 2 way fronts, 1 subwoofer (or multiples but only if they're identical).

Trying to cheap out on deadener by shopping Home Depot is very risky, when the cheap stuff goes wrong it can be a disaster. If you do buy new equipment buy used or wait for deals on high quality. Pay now or pay later.... if you buy low end equipment it'll perform poorly, fail prematurely, and hold little to no resale value down the road.

 
How "good" do you want it to sound.. Good souning speakers require many years of testing and $$$ from testing and machining parts to help them sound excellent.

Its not impossible but you get what you pay for.

Right off the bat id recommend a 4 way system

Decatied 8" midbass a decated 3 or 4" mid range and a set of 3/4 softdome tweeters with a high powered 12 or 15 tubed very low

A good head unit with great processing is gonna cost you.

And no way on earth will any deck power a mid range and tweeter to any decent levels i strongly recommend you consider you extend your budget by 2 fold or i recommend you much simpler 3 way setup with cheap Chinese gear and wish for the best.

A good cd player with "decent" da convertors is 200.

Good amp to power your components alone will run 250.

Sub and amp 200..

Mids and high 250 for a dirt cheap 3 way using lowend speakers..

 
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The cheapest "decent" system i can imagine..

3 way crossovers. the midbass will play up to 500hz the midrange will play from 500hz to 4khz and the tweeters will play 4khz up.

here are the xovers. warning they are the size of a small keyboard but they use decent parts and and worth EVERY PENNY. make something cool with them maybe with some lights you can even stack them and mount them in the trunk.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-xo3w-500-4k-3-way-speaker-crossover-500-4000-hz--260-152

decent midbass for the money wont get one better until you spend 45$+

https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-208-4-8-oem-woofer-4-ohm--290-310

decent midrange resounding price. unheard of price to performance ratio!

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs75t-8-3-reference-full-range-driver-truncated-frame--295-336

dirty cheap but sounds decent on axis.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd20fa-6-3-4-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter--275-030

but id recommend this for the extra dollars

https://www.parts-express.com/vifa-d19td-27-08-3-4-poly-dome-tweeter--299-124

That's 280 shipped ruffly.

Here is a decent amp to power them

https://www.parts-express.com/pioneer-gm-a6604-4-channel-bridgeable-760-watt-max-amplifier-with-bass-boost--267-1910

bridge channels 1 and 2 and use it as left channel then 3 and 4 bridged to get the right channel. i never recommend this but its actually a good way to get clean power without breaking the bank.. it will give you about 150-160 clean per side for 175$!

that would be a more than decent 3 ways IF you do it right. seal off the mid-bass with the appropriate volume cross at 65hz. Build custom panels and put tge drivers on axis in very close proximity..

id suggest this woofer highly for the money its a **** nice woofer as well..

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512

i honestly love building budget systems but this is borderline cheap **** its one step about cheap ****. the weak link is the xovers and midbass

if you chose to go with something abit better midbass

https://www.parts-express.com/eminence-8-paper-cone-high-output-woofer-4-ohm--290-4006

MX-1000SX - CDT Audio Ultra Adjustable 2 / 3-Way Flexible Crossovers

they can be had for cheaper. 180 or so..

 
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Thanks for the helpful info, especially papermaker //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/clap.gif.178cba2c538c68e720c727fcb024b19c.gif

For those who prefer 140 characters or less, perhaps this conversation or format isn't for you, but everyone is most certainly welcome to give any kind of input. I apologize for being so interested in car audio and needing to learn so much. I've always preferred thoroughness over brevity.

So it's safe to say I am comprehending the essentials? ...necessary components, factors for quality and imaging, placement, etc.

A good way to perceive this might be to imagine a competition, like a TV show, where you are given $500 and have to build the best system. People who aren't used to having to stretch dollars or who aren't creative might fail at such a competition.

Budget is only part of the equation though, and not particularly important at this time. Papermaker helped explain basic overall setups that can apply to any budget, and explained some aspects to components that I didn't know yet. I am grateful for that kind of information. Are there specific aspects/features to look for that result in good quality (speakers, amps, head units, etc.)? That way I won't have to rely on other people searching for me, and I prefer to know what I'm doing in general.

I have looked at head units and it seems I can't find one with a good equalizer without it having a bunch of over-the-top features that jack up the price, features I have no interest in. The Kenwood Excelon is getting closer though. If only I could remove a few things from it, removing dollars along with them. It doesn't need to have super sophisticated processing. It seems possible, as long as the equalizer is good enough, to allow a lot of the quality to be produced by simple crossovers, filters, legit speakers, optimal placement, and good enclosures.

Remember, I don't have to buy any enclosures or panels. I have plenty of material and tools and constructing things is simple to me. I also don't require any wiring or setting up by any third party. The vehicle is also subject to modification, performing anything that may help the interior sound, so that's yet another aspect I have to learn (adding chambers, removing barriers, changing materials, etc.). These are costs that don't have to be added into the total. Also, being into cars, I make occasional trips to the junk yard, and you would be surprised what people leave in them. I have found full component systems, amps, subs and boxes, nice wiring kits, all for $2-$15... practically free. It's a gamble, but the payoff is worth it.

I'm also not trying to win any competitions. If I were to take a car to a show, the audio would be a secondary factor. Of course the whole point of this and my latest obsession is to have a sound system as nice as possible, leaving no detail overlooked. In actuality, even my system should be better than 99% of vehicles on the road, with most people not even bothering to change the factory units.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and sharing your knowledge and experience //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Edit: I'm searching more and finding head units with parametric equalizers, aux, 4v PreAmps, and 22 RMS for $70. It seems name brand 6.5s start at $30, Mids at $30, and 8s at $60. If I knew exactly what to look for and to avoid, I could get a better idea. Here is an ever-evolving $500 list after shifting money around...

HU: $70

Tweeters: Already Have

6.5s: $30

Mid: $30

8 (x2): $140

12: $80

Amp: $150

Enclosures/Wiring/Other: Free

...An altogether different setup would of course warrant different pricing. Is this where you would spend the money, or would you allot the money differently? Would you remove or add components?

Edit: Edit:

I realized I might not need a dedicated Mid if I shifted money to nicer 6.5s ($60 6.5s), and use the nicest suitable speakers I already have to draw frequencies to the center, using the front channels for the nice 6.5s and the rear channels to control the center speakers, keeping dedicated tweeters to enhance imaging and using the amp to control the 8s and 12 along with the best HU controls available for the price. Tuned enclosures for everything, creative positioning, and modifying the interior can further increase SQ and effectiveness. A legit crossover/equalizer could still be squeezed in if some components can be had for cheaper, though simple crossovers could be salvaged from component systems if necessary. Does all of this sound reasonable?

HU: $70

Tweeters: Already Have

6.5s: $60

Center Front: Already Have

8 (x2): $140

12: $80

Amp: $150

Enclosures/Wiring/Other: Free

Edit: Edit: Edit:

I'm getting more specific in my search...

12": JL 12W0v3-4 $130

10": JL 10WXv2-4 $90

Amp: Pioneer GM-A6604 $105

6.5 (x2): Kicker CS65 $60

HU: JVC KD-R880BT $90

Mids: Free, Choose From Collection

Tweeters: Free, Choose From Collection

Enclosures/Wiring/Other: Free, Have Materials And Skills

Details Of Above...

HU: 22x4 RMS, 4v Preamp, 13-band EQ, LPF/HPF, SW level, K2 Tech

Tweeters: A-Pillars, Imaging Enhancement

Mids: Front/Center Console, Staging Enhancement

6.5s: Outer Kick Panels Sealed As Enclosures

10": For Punch, Up To 150 Hz, sealed enclosure, 200 RMS

12": For Fullness, Up To 80 Hz, ported enclosure, 300 RMS

Amp: CEA-2006, 180x2 RMS Bridged, 2 channel LPF/HPF

Run 6.5s and Tweeters on HU front channels (full range + speaker crossovers), Console Mids on rear channels (emphasis on mid range), 10" for punch and higher-lows in rear cab, 12" for deep bass in trunk. Optimize enclosures and car interior shape/material. Utilize full abilities of HU equalizer and filters, and amp filters.

OR

Everything the same except the bass...

Amp: Polk Audio PA D4000.4 $200, 1x400 RMS bridged + 2x120 RMS, CEA-2006

12: Earthquake Sound TREMOR-X124 $75, 400 RMS

8 (x2): Audiopipe TS-VR8 $70, 8s in rear cab corners, 150 RMS (x2)

 
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Hookah

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