new everything....

Ergo - if you get a set of speakers that are rated for 70w RMS each then you might want to look for an amp that will output in the neighborhood of 50~75 watts per channel to make the most out of those speakers' abilities. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

This is the kind of stuff I'm confused about. RMS, OHM, stuff like that.

 
Ergo - if you get a set of speakers that are rated for 70w RMS each then you might want to look for an amp that will output in the neighborhood of 50~75 watts per channel to make the most out of those speakers' abilities. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

This is the kind of stuff I'm confused about. RMS, OHM, stuff like that.

like prowler said RMS is what the speaker/woofer is rated to be given. It is good to stay at around that area but going below RMS will not hurt the speaker or woofer. Amp's RMS is what is how much is how many continuos watts are being pushed from the amp at a given voltage. Ohm's are the impedence of that speaker/woofer. if you have a dual 2 ohm woofer you can wire it in such a way to get 1 ohm or 4 ohm's. If your amp is only stable at 2 ohm's it would be wise to wire to 4 ohm's. wiring it to a 1 ohm load could cause overheating and or frying the amp.

 
I think my other post got lost somewhere, because I did a quote post. Anyways, I am confused about the RMS, OHM, stuff like that. I want a loud system, but not so loud it rattles the windows of someone's house when I drive by, but loud enough I will definantly be noticed when I'm on the street. Something someone can say "****" too.

 
RMS = Root Mean Square.

It means the average wattage an piece of equipment will either reliably output or can safely accept as input (depending on what it is - amp or speakers)

Ohms is the unit of measure for electrical resistance. The higher the number the more resistance that speaker has. Speakers are rated for this Ohm rating or that and amps can operate safely at X, Y, or Zed number of Ohms - but there isn't anything such as a "2 Ohm amp" or a 1 Ohm amp" Amplifiers either run safely at these loads or they don't. What resistance load is shown to the amp is decided by the electrical resistance, or Ohms, or the speaker(s) you're attaching to the amp.

 
Well, I am an unwaveringly loyal fan of Kenwood eXcelon head units, personally. And I am a big fan of Diamond Audio's speakers and subs. Alpine, Pioneer (specifically the Premier lineup) Eclipse, and heaps of others all make right fine gear. It becomes a matter of what you want it to do for you and how much you're willing to spend to make that happen. You can spend a few hundred on a budget system or several thousand maybe 10s of thousands on an OMFG! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/omg.gif.05aa02c3095d6ce9338996654eca0863.gif system.

 
I would like to go with all the same name products, but I guess it really doesnt' matter. What do you think about Audiobahn....I used to have subs and people around here say they are good. I also saw a deal in the crutchfield mag for Sony Explode, but I've heard they arent' so great

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

My advice to you?

Hang around here for a couple weeks, see what the experienced members are recommending...

 
Does the size of your battery have anything to do with it, or is it just your alternator...also I looked on the tutorial about the big 3, and it says it's a "quick" fix for someone on a budget, but really how reliable do you think this is....better than a cap? Next best thing to getting a new alternator?

 
Well, I am an unwaveringly loal fan of Kenwood eXcelon head units, personally. And I am a big fan of Diamond Audio's speakers and subs. Alpine, Pioneer (specifically the Premier lineup) Eclipse, and heaps of others all make right fine gear. It becomes a matter of what you want it to do for you and how much you're willing to spend to make that happen. You can spend a few hundred on a budget system or several thousand maybe 10s of thousands on an OMFG! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/omg.gif.05aa02c3095d6ce9338996654eca0863.gif system.
I

If I were you and had 800 dollars to play with this is what i would get.

$250

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15599

$125

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2424

as for the subwoofer i would search around the forums here and see what you like. The viper is stable in from 4ohms-1ohm so you have alot to play with there.

a wiring kit will run you about $30

and if you need to do the big 3 its about $20

 
oh. and as for the box. Moe lester or Squeak12 on here can design you one for about $6 then you jus find someone good with building and pay about $20-30 for the wood , screws, and sealant

 
Does the size of your battery have anything to do with it, or is it just your alternator...also I looked on the tutorial about the big 3, and it says it's a "quick" fix for someone on a budget, but really how reliable do you think this is....better than a cap? Next best thing to getting a new alternator?
You dont need a cap at all. The big 3 will pull more power from you alt. to your battery which results in less strain on the battery.

 
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