Hey everyone. Long time lurker, first time poster heh.
So I'm having an issue, please bear with all of the typing and with me heh.
I recently bought a 92 Bronco XLT. 6 1/2 inch lift. 35 1/5 mud slinger tires. It's a beast. The owner gave me a new pioneer head unit, and a set of twin 15" MTX Competition Subs (not set up, I'll do that with an amp and what not at a later date). It's a real beast!
Well there was a JVC head unit in there. a friend of mine was like "oh hey I'll install the new one for ya!". Starts cutting some shit up (like two three wires) moving them around, and gives up.
I end up dismissing him like a retard, and proceeding to get dinner. Head to go ole' jack in the crack. I notice, there is almost no low end power. It's a 5.8 Litre Windsor with 399HP, it leaps really well, ****ing rock crawler. So I'm like wtf... end up noticing the dome lights are not working, neither is my electronic odo, or any of my external gauges. Get home, re-seat the positive cable on the battery a few times, and the dome lights come on, door locks click, and everything works. Power cycling issue I suppose, must just be finnicky (it is weird the truck runs in that condition when you read what's next).
So everything is on fine, I get in. All of my lights are blinking, and there's a ticking coming from the dash. Truck doesn't start. No fire, no gas, nothing to the heads. YAY! ****ing awesome! Brand new truck (24k on new block) YAYAYAYAY! I look around, the source of the ticking is a black box tucked way under the dash. It's a black box that says "Code Alarm PRO1000SE". ****ing perfect.
It appears it is set to the starter, engine, and possibly the radio? When I tug on the box, the radio cables move as well.
My question. Is there an issue from the battery being disconnected and possibly the box losing programming? When the car is on and blicking when I press disarm, the blinking stops, and the truck turns on but in that shitty condition. Could it be that the radio wiring is still undone, and not plugged into the radio (no grounding maybe?). The exposed half finished wires are taped sealed so they're not making contact with anything. is there a way to disable the imobilizing features and get it to the car audio place to have this wreck fixed?
I'm at a lose here. Any help would be great!
/sigh.
Thanks in advance //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
