mtlhead
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
i wub j00 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cuddle.gif.bd1b29c179c0482f8313dbd790b74c94.gifjust for you mtl
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i wub j00 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cuddle.gif.bd1b29c179c0482f8313dbd790b74c94.gifjust for you mtl
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a simple thanks works //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gifi wub j00 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cuddle.gif.bd1b29c179c0482f8313dbd790b74c94.gif
they look fat with that solder all over em.loll, imma give it another try tomorrow and see how it turns out, hope I wont burn the whole board! ill post some updates! and what do you mean by power leads are obese? loll
100W? are you kidding me?To properly solder these terminals you need to to do it from the back side of board, which will require removing it. Also you will need ~100W iron for this. I highly doubt that even after successful soldering amp starts to work - there probably either power supply FET's or outputs shorted, which lead to excessive current and and damage to solder connections of power terminals.
If you are going to use ordinary (without load-adaptive thermal stabilization) iron, then you probably would not be even able to melt a solder around terminals with 35W, tip will be loosing temperature too quickly due to thermal capacity of huge terminal, acting as a heatsink.100W? are you kidding me?
i wouldnt use anything higher than 35W on that kind of stuff
If you are going to use ordinary (without load-adaptive thermal stabilization) iron, then you probably would not be even able to melt a solder around terminals with 35W, tip will be loosing temperature too quickly due to thermal capacity of huge terminal, acting as a heatsink.