Need help choosing Sub Setup

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

4awg usually rated up to 150amps max "the good 4awg anyways" 0awg can be rated up to 350+amps "the good 0awg anyways". So the difference is the 0awg can handle a higher current draw vs the 4awg. Me drives a saturn also.... Be prepared for it to fall apart our cars come apart easy.. I dnt have a single panel left inside my car other then door panels. Bumpers have shook loose mirrors etc. Just a heads up.

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

Oh crap, I'll see to not rattle it too much //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif But it's in good shape so... I hope it stays like that at least a couple of years still...

So uh, 0 AWG wiring is better... So I would actually need to get 0 wiring on top of the 4 wiring I already got?

Alright I'll try and manage with that... !

Thanks a lot people. All other suggestions are more than welcome!

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Oh I meant to say, if you already have that 4 gauge kit, you could just get one more quality OFC 4-gauge kit (like I linked earlier) for the sub, and you'll be fine. A lot of people like to do a single run of 0 gauge to the back, and then split it at a distro block and go to the amps with 4 gauge. However, if you already have one 4 gauge kit for the speaker amps, I'd just get another (better quality though) 4 gauge kit for the sub amp.

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Oh crap, I'll see to not rattle it too much //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif But it's in good shape so... I hope it stays like that at least a couple of years still...So uh, 0 AWG wiring is better... So I would actually need to get 0 wiring on top of the 4 wiring I already got?

Alright I'll try and manage with that... !

Thanks a lot people. All other suggestions are more than welcome!

Mine had 40k on the clock and was in perfect shape. Only took a week or so and stuff started falling. Gotta member our panels are plastic so they flex like no other. No matter how much dead u lay down once the bass kicks in my car starts to look like a balloon due to the flex... They can get loud though..... Good 4awg willl be good for up to 150amps so as long as the amps you are looking at dont have a combined fuse rating of over 150amps u should be good but mehh whats a few more bucks for 0awg. Makes u feel good inside LOL

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

Alright //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I'll have to study this wiring diagram and manage to understand how it goes. I was wondering though, since I'm going to run 2 amps, independently, how is the wiring going to be plugged simultaneously ??? I heard there were complications when this type of situation arises...

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

You wire and hook-up the second amp the same exact way you would the first. Nothing different or complicated about it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

Really? But I heard you needed some sort of special thing when you have 2 amps, because you can't connect 2 different wirings to the battery??

 

[lilboom 10+ year member]

Distribution block or power splitter. 1 wire splits to 2 or a battery terminal that allows you to connect multiple wires. both pretty cheap. i dont know if you choose to run you polk mm speakers i did not read through the thread).If you do id suggest you put them in the rear .

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

Alright thanks for this valuable information, I actually intended on putting the polks in the back, since they don't have tweeters to go on top. Also, for the distro block or the power splitter, which do you recommend? Is that a tough install? Which is cheaper but efficient ? Thanks!

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Really? But I heard you needed some sort of special thing when you have 2 amps, because you can't connect 2 different wirings to the battery??

Nah, you don't have to. You can have a million things come off the battery if you want. I already had 2 runs of wiring for my amps, so I just did 2 separate runs. It was a lot cheaper than buying all new batteries. It could look a bit cleaner or nicer I guess if you spent the money on new wiring and a distro block and what not, but it doesn't make any difference in functionality.

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

This clears up a lot of questions, thanks ! So this is what I have so far...

Polk MM651's for the back

Undetermined components for the front

SA-10's (double) for the sub system

Undetermined box plans

4 Gauge wiring for the speaker system...

Undetermined wiring for the sub system

Rubicon Amp for Sub stage (SOUNDSTREAM RUB1.1600D 1600 WATT RMS)

I think I'm all good for now??? What are the undetermined things you guys would recommend? Mostly the components, for metal, technical progressive ?

Thanks!!

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

I just realized the DV4 SA-10's are 189 each... I'll think about it! xD

That's + the box + The amp + the comps + wiring + installation....

Yikes. Gotta make some space on budget!

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

**Oops Triple post, Ignore this please... **

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

**Oops Triple post, ignore this please**

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

I just realized the DV4 SA-10's are 189 each... I'll think about it! xDThat's + the box + The amp + the comps + wiring + installation....

Yikes. Gotta make some space on budget!

You can always look used.... or at least b-stock. I got my SA-10 b-stock, straight from Sundown, it cost me $130 shipped to my door I believe.