Need help, Amplifier in protection mode

Chrismass

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NY
Okay so I'll start from the beginning, with the first statement being that I do not have a lot of money to spend on my system, thus why I went the inexpensive route. So I started off by purchasing for my 2002 Ford Explorer a Sony Stereo (Model# CDX-GT540UI) and had it installed there. Next I purchased three things from amazon including a Lanzar Amplifier (Model# VCT2010) a basic 8 gauge Amplifier installation kit, and a 12 inch Kicker Comp SVC ( Model# 10C124).

The fellow who installed my stereo at PC Richard also connected the RCA line and the remote line that came with the installation kit. I attached the blue and white RCA cable into the Amplifier inputs, then I attached the grounding wire in my vehicle near the back right under where the spare tire parts are. For the 8 gauge power wire, I attached that to the + battery terminal after I got it through the firewall, then I attached the fuse about 6 inches from the wire connected to the + battery terminal. There was some exposed metal, so I sanded it down until it shined, then I drilled drilled the screw attaching the wire down. Next I took the amplifier and attached it to the speaker using 16 gauge speaker wire about 4 feet long of a piece. The amplifier has a setup looking like this RIGHT + - and LEFT + -. Now the manual said if I wanted it to be 2 ohms I would attach the + and - to the right side. However, the amplifier also runs at 4 ohms if you attach the + speaker wire to the RIGHT + and if you attach the - speaker wire to the LEFT -. I did as it instructed, and was ready to have it work correctly. However, it didn't. The amplifier is stone cold, so it's not overheating. I didn't hear ANY noise from the kicker from the beginning. It's as if nothing happened as I turned it on.

The light on the amplifier turns RED which means it's in protection mode apparently. The remote works I know because when I turn the stereo on with the remote, the red light turns on, then if I turn it off it shuts off as well. I don't know what I'm doing wrong, and if there is anything that can be done to help fix this situation I would be extremely grateful. If any additional pictures of my setup could be helpful I will post the immediately after I take them. Thanks!

 
ok power wire from the amp to the battery with the fuse no more than 18 inches from the battery.ground wire no more than 18 inches if possible grounded to the car body.sand the paint off and use that point for ground.check all connections with a test light and multimeter to see if you have good contact and voltage.wire the woofer to the amp in bridge mode .look on the speaker terminals it should show you how to do it.if not + off the woofer to + on the amp on 1 channel ,then - on the woofer to - on the amp ,the other channel.see if that works

 
I tried that, and it didn't succeed either.

Here is my current setup.

8 gauge wire attached to the + battery terminal.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/batteryka.jpg/

Fuse attached to about 9 inches of 8 gauge wire.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/batteryfuse.jpg/

The Amplifier setup as followed: Right - + Left - + Fuses Battery Wire / Remote Wire / Grounding Wire The ones I bolded are the ones the wires are attached to. Including the first negative, and the last positive.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/94/014tbp.jpg/

+ terminal on the Sub Woofer.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/011xx.jpg/

- terminal on the Sub Woofer.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/88/012apa.jpg/

Grounding wire attached to a large piece of metal near the tools to remove the spare tire. (Sanded and secured)

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/688/015ehg.jpg/

 
Well I hurt my finger today so I won't be typing too much. It was found to be the grounding which was the problem setting it into protection mode. This I had previously thought to be impossible because without a ground no electric would have been transferred, but I guess I was wrong. An associate of my friends father working at his audio shop figured out that it was the negative ground with a volt meter. I had correctly drilled it into the metal, but I happened to pick the one bad area of the car. It's working now, and shakes everything around! I am very happy, and I thank you for your help and correctness //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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Chrismass

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