Need Advice: Oz Audio Matrix Elite 180CS with PPI Art Series

[Odd Soul 10+ year member]

You wouldn't really gain any better "signal separation" from the first option, only more flexibility since you would be forced to run active.
That said....if your installation is going to have the tweeter and mid located in the same location (i.e. both in kickpanels), I would say go with option #2. If you are going to be locating them in different areas (say, mids in kicks or doors and tweeters on the A-pillar) I would go for option #1 and run active....the passive xover will be less optimized for that installation scenario and you would benefit greatly from going active.

Wow, I thought the passive crossovers were optimized for the tweeters and mids in different locations. I'm definitely gonna go active now. Thanks!

 

[Pr0d1gy 10+ year member]

Thanks for the recommendation. Your system looks BADASS.

Oh it is, he let me drive down to his place & listen to them and it really opened my eyes to how well a car audio system can actually perform. You will not be disappointed with those comps at all, and the subs can pound too. I'm buying my comps in a couple weeks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif :veryhapp: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif :veryhapp: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Naw....way too many installation variables for them to be able to effectively calculate the crossover that way.

Active sounds like it would be better for your situation.

Though, can you maintain your 5.1 surround sound while running active out of that equipment?

 

[addisdar 10+ year member]

Wow, I thought the passive crossovers were optimized for the tweeters and mids in different locations. I'm definitely gonna go active now. Thanks!

If you are going to go active, be sure to send more than 50 watts to the 6.5 on the OZ set. RMS is 100 on that, and it can take MUCH more.

 

[Odd Soul 10+ year member]

Though, can you maintain your 5.1 surround sound while running active out of that equipment?

I'll have to power the center speakers with the headunit or get another amp. Maybe I can consider a getting a mono amp for the sub.

 

[suleman36 10+ year member]

So active is recommended if the tweeter is in the a piller and the mid in the door ?

and

Passive is recommended if the tweeter and mid are next to eachother ?

I thought it was the opposite for better imaging with the crossover that it comes with.

Someone please clarify this for me. Im starting to have doubts about putting 200 x 2 @ 4 ohm to my CDT HD62's since my tweeter will be up high on the door panal and my mids in the stock door locations...

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

i would stick with the same type of speakers for the center if you could ..... which surround sound starts middle out? is that 6.1 or 7.1 or something else? i quit selling home ausio when 6.1 was the rage lol

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

So active is recommended if the tweeter is in the a piller and the mid in the door ?
and

Passive is recommended if the tweeter and mid are next to eachother ?

I thought it was the opposite for better imaging with the crossover that it comes with.

Someone please clarify this for me. Im starting to have doubts about putting 200 x 2 @ 4 ohm to my CDT HD62's since my tweeter will be up high on the door panal and my mids in the stock door locations...

Active would be far better. Due to the various locations, the xover point and slope will likely need to be adjusted for your specific mounting locations and vehicle acoustic affects. Also, you will want the ability to independently time align each speaker since they will each be mounted at a different distance from the listening position.

 

[suleman36 10+ year member]

I whould imagine you whould want to time align the set even if its run passive with the mids and tweeters close to eachother.

I think if i do go active it whould be best to use a 6 or 12db slope @ 80-125hz

and

if i go passive then about 18 or 24db slope @ 80-125hz

Correct me if im wrong here....

If i do go active, i may just end up using coaxials to be done with it because i dont think i can mount the tweeter next to the mid without cutting the door panel in my ride. I will check with my installer to see if it is possible etc...

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

I whould imagine you whould want to time align the set even if its run passive with the mids and tweeters close to eachother.
I think if i do go active it whould be best to use a 6 or 12db slope @ 80-125hz

and

if i go passive then about 18 or 24db slope @ 80-125hz

Correct me if im wrong here....

If i do go active, i may just end up using coaxials to be done with it because i dont think i can mount the tweeter next to the mid without cutting the door panel in my ride. I will check with my installer to see if it is possible etc...

i think you have that backwards lol

 

[suleman36 10+ year member]

Im also thinking about using my ppi a600.2 on the OZ audio Matrix CS 180's

This amp is capable of 150 x 2 @ 4 ohm

What do you guys think.. Should be sweet

 

[addisdar 10+ year member]

Im also thinking about using my ppi a600.2 on the OZ audio Matrix CS 180's
This amp is capable of 150 x 2 @ 4 ohm

What do you guys think.. Should be sweet

That amp will do perfectly fine with that set. Should sound awesome.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

I whould imagine you whould want to time align the set even if its run passive with the mids and tweeters close to eachother.
I think if i do go active it whould be best to use a 6 or 12db slope @ 80-125hz

and

if i go passive then about 18 or 24db slope @ 80-125hz

Correct me if im wrong here....

Those are crossover points to divide between a sub and a mid and aren't terribly relevent to the situation at hand. Unless you are running one stereo amp in a stereo + mono setup that frequency division is pretty much always active.

 

[nauc 10+ year member]

i have a pair of Oz ME components one the way....

Oz rates the tweet at 50 watts, the mid 100

100 or 150 or more per side, seems like a lot

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

the older versions of oz high end components i know a curtain car the had 300watts mono going to each side...depends how you set it up and listen too it.