My retard question of the day...

[mason_msw 10+ year member]

If you have a 4 channel amp and a DVC 4 ohm sub can you bridge the channels of the amp and then run one set of bridged wires to each voice coil so that all channels of the amp would be working to push one sub?

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[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

If you have a 4 channel amp and a DVC 4 ohm sub can you bridge the channels of the amp and then run one set of bridged wires to each voice coil so that all channels of the amp would be working to push one sub?

Yes, run each VC to one pair of bridged terminals.

 

[mason_msw 10+ year member]

Awesome, thanks man.

 

[RandyJ 10+ year member]

WAIT, make sure the channels, bridged, are stable at the load one VC will show.

 

[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

WAIT, make sure the channels, bridged, are stable at the load one VC will show.

Well most 4 channel amps are 4 ohm stable when bridged, and he has a DVC 4 ohm sub...

But yes, check it out before hooking everything up. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[mason_msw 10+ year member]

Alright, now can I use a voltmeter to test my amp and see how many watts it is putting out with the car running? Sorry I have hardly ever used one before.

 

[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

Use a DMM (Digital Multimeter.) That is the cheapest way to do it. It will not tell you how many watts your amp puts out, but how many volts its putting out.

Formula:

[(Desired Output in Watts) x (Ohms of coil configs)] Square Root

For example..

If the amp can put out 600watts, and the VC's are 4 ohms, then you would do [(600)(4)]sqrt = 48.98v

 

[RandyJ 10+ year member]

Oop, sorry. I didnt notice he had a d4 sub.

 

[mason_msw 10+ year member]

Yeah I tried the DMM and I'm an idiot and didn't expect the volts to jump up and down with the beat. I guess I just didn't think about it, anyways I couldn't get a solid reading because the DMM was lagging too much to see what it was peaking out at. The decimal places were jumping late and I had no idea where it was actually supposed to be at. I noticed it read 30 a few times. That would come out to 225 watts and this was with the car running off of a charger so it was only at 12.5 volts. Seems about right, so do you guys think that this could be enough at 14.4 and with both channels running to push a RL-P reasonably well?

 

[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

Yeah I tried the DMM and I'm an idiot and didn't expect the volts to jump up and down with the beat. I guess I just didn't think about it, anyways I couldn't get a solid reading because the DMM was lagging too much to see what it was peaking out at. The decimal places were jumping late and I had no idea where it was actually supposed to be at. I noticed it read 30 a few times. That would come out to 225 watts and this was with the car running off of a charger so it was only at 12.5 volts. Seems about right, so do you guys think that this could be enough at 14.4 and with both channels running to push a RL-P reasonably well?

You need to set your gain using a test tone. There are many sites out there that offer them. THIS would work fine, just burn it on a CD and set it to repeat mode, or burn it multiple times on the CD, whichever is easier.

 

[mason_msw 10+ year member]

Thanks again!

 

[mason_msw 10+ year member]

Well I did it with that tone and I only got 25 volts which is super low to what i would have expected that means it is only putting out around 60 watts. Any explanation to this?

 

[mason_msw 10+ year member]

I just checked the manual and it is rated at 180 watts at 4 ohms bridged, also it is an MTX amplifier so I would expect it to be underrated.