Morel's killing my ears! Please help.

[EPICjurneez]

I feel your pain! Our poor Corollas!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif:crying://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif:crying://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif:crying:

oh well at least i achieved much better sound right off the bat with my new soccer dad van without as much intensive deadening as the corolla.

Op

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That's some serious coverage in that Corolla Door photo! How much square footage and $ should I anticipate budgeting for? I'm assuming the money and time spent was a major impact.

There are multiple materials rec'd between cld and dynamat-type. Not sure what's better. The bottom-line idea is to deaden the floppy resonant sheet metal and seal of front facing holes right?

You'd probably not recommend this but how about surface mounting the speakers? The installers used some mdf-looking cut-out spacer to mount the speakers on. I was thinking about adding another spacer (I can cut some mdf) to fill the gap cut the plastic... Sure it'll lose the stealth and may not look all that nice, but Morel grills aren't all that flashy and probably won't draw attention, speakers won't be firing into the space behind the door panel and vomiting out through those pinholes.

I have an old 94' toy pick up with wing windows with a passive three-way running off a 2channel generic infinity digital amp. No pain, decent stage and I'm sure the acoustics can't be that much better.

Love hearing your ideas and thanks for all the helpful tips!

Speaking of family vehicles, my friend's highlander with the JBL factory system sounds pretty good. Soundstage is as small as the windshield but it's ok louder volumes with deep bass extension... and it doesn't hurt my ears

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That's some serious coverage in that Corolla Door photo! How much square footage and $ should I anticipate budgeting for? I'm assuming the money and time spent was a major impact.
There are multiple materials rec'd between cld and dynamat-type. Not sure what's better. The bottom-line idea is to deaden the floppy resonant sheet metal and seal of front facing holes right?

You'd probably not recommend this but how about surface mounting the speakers? The installers used some mdf-looking cut-out spacer to mount the speakers on. I was thinking about adding another spacer (I can cut some mdf) to fill the gap cut the plastic... Sure it'll lose the stealth and may not look all that nice, but Morel grills aren't all that flashy and probably won't draw attention, speakers won't be firing into the space behind the door panel and vomiting out through those pinholes.

I have an old 94' toy pick up with wing windows with a passive three-way running off a 2channel generic infinity digital amp. No pain, decent stage and I'm sure the acoustics can't be that much better.

Love hearing your ideas and thanks for all the helpful tips!

Speaking of family vehicles, my friend's highlander with the JBL factory system sounds pretty good. Soundstage is as small as the windshield but it's ok louder volumes with deep bass extension... and it doesn't hurt my ears

You want the CLD to control resonances and vibrations and block the gaps in the car door to turn your door into a proper speaker enclosure. You need the mass loaded vinyl on top of that to block out road noise along with absorbing peaky frequencies in the music spectrum. You also want to decouple with some foam so you dont get vibrations from the increased midbass response you'll get after you finish. ALL 3 are neccessary in a great install. I'll list the best bang for buck deadening gear down below

MLV

4 ft. x 8 ft. Acoustical Barrier-DB348X96BX - The Home Depot

CLD

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-RKX36B-Roadkill-Damping-Material/dp/B001HHP59G

CCF ( closed cell foam to decouple aka prevent surfaces from vibrating against eachother and creating rattle)\

camping foam - Walmart.com

I'm going to try avoiding the dsp route until I have no other choice. However, between the three of you, who are obviously experienced and knowledgable about equipment, which dsp(s) do you recommend? I'm always hoping bang-for-buck. I'll need an active xover and eq. The lpf/hpf on my amp only range up to 200hz, as well as my hu.

considering a cheap basic dsp like a Mini DSP 2-4 is only 100 dollars and it does everything you need and much more.

https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

HEre is what a proper SQ install looks like.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive.html

 

[EPICjurneez]

HEre is what a proper SQ install looks like.
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive.html

I've watched and checked out everything you linked me to and had a couple questions. Did you use those F.A.S.T Rings or something similar? Did you deaden the plastic trim at all or is the decoupling process sufficient?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I've watched and checked out everything you linked me to and had a couple questions. Did you use those F.A.S.T Rings or something similar? Did you deaden the plastic trim at all or is the decoupling process sufficient?

The plastic trim is optional unless the trim itself is rattling from excessive vibration and not due to rubbing against other surfaces which decoupling takes care of easily.

I dont have money to pay for those fast rings so i use weather strip foam tape instead and create a whole baffle out of it.

Frost King E/O 3/4 in. x 7/16 in. x 10 ft. Black High-Density Rubber Foam Weatherstrip Tape-R734H - The Home Depot