more midbass?

[skittlesRgood 10+ year member]

ok... so im looking for more midbass/midrange. using the pioneers in my sig. im a little iffy about the trouble of going active but i want to ask you guys:

do you think i should go active (if so what unit) or do you know of a comp. set thatll give me much better mids? or just mid 6.5"s woofers thatll work with my crossover (heard you cant do that but im not sure).

now if active, can i use my pdx150.4? i have a pdx100.4 as well i could use but would that still be too much power?

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[jdc753 10+ year member]

Seems no one is biting on this thread to give ya any help so I guess I will see what I can do.

Are your doors deadened or sealed up in anyway? Do you have MDF or some accousticalled dead and dense material to mount the mids to or are they just screwed into the door sheetmetal?

With that aside, active is sweet and gives you many more options on placement of drivers as well as controlling the sound. I'm not sure if you have the processing to go active from your HU or from your amps, sounds like you have plenty of channels but not sure about crossover points and such. A new HU or some sort of a processor might help you out in this regards if you do decide to go active. Depending on how much you want to spend maybe look into getting an Alpine 9887, Pioneer 880PRS or 800PRS or another active capable HU that fits your budget and needs.

From what I have read on those Components they should shine pretty well in the midbass department. However I don't have any first hand experience with them. I suppose if you were to get the processing you could try them active first and see how that treats you, or sell them off and look at doing individual drivers. Something along the lines of ID OEM mids and Seas Neo tweeters, just seems to be a really popular and rock solid base for going active.

Ultimately I would look into the install first and see about bolstering the installation of the mids to get the most you can out of them before going out and swapping out gear. Should be able to get some good midbass out of that set. Maybe try Bi-amping the set and see if some tweaking of the gain to level match better between the tweeter and mid might help you out.

 

[916Kev 10+ year member]

^^ What he said regarding deadening your doors. You could also build a speaker pod or use some dynaxorb or something. Good luck.

 

[skittlesRgood 10+ year member]

i want to build a pod but i dont have the room. doors are deadened with dynamat and spectrum sludge. however the big hole in the door is still open. speakers are sitting on apple ply (really good plywood).

i have to turn them almost all the way up to make them sound good.

 

[skittlesRgood 10+ year member]

no more answers?

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

go active. and make the area the woofer mounts too as solid as you can.

 

[skittlesRgood 10+ year member]

woofer couldnt be any more solid. so going active is the only way to make it better? so what 6.5 mids should i look at?

 

[Fusion_FREAK 10+ year member]

A lot of people seem to like the Mach 5 MLI-65

http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=183

 

[bball09124 10+ year member]

I'd say patch up the hole in your door first and see if that improves the midbass.

 

[skittlesRgood 10+ year member]

I'd say patch up the hole in your door first and see if that improves the midbass.

you really think itll make that much of a differance?

 

[Fusion_FREAK 10+ year member]

you really think itll make that much of a differance?

YES. It'll be like night and day. When I did mine, it made SO much of a difference.

 

[bball09124 10+ year member]

YES. It'll be like night and day. When I did mine, it made SO much of a difference.

What happens when you put a subwoofer in a leaky sealed box? Output *****, and it sounds shitty. Essentially thats the same thing you are doing when you put a speaker in an unprepped door.

So, yes, it should make a difference.

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

Not sure as to why your not getting the mid bass out of your ride. I didn't read a lot of the replys, but are your doors deadened? That makes a huge difference. Mine are mostly done, just need to patch up some holes, but they rock! And I have the 720C's to your higher PRS set. I love mine to death and have had some nice comps from in the day. To go active, you have a very nice set to deal with. Personally me, I can't see active being that much louder or clearer. I can't even take my setup right now and is Passive and running an el cheapo 3-way crossover as my external crossover on everything and still sounds fantastic!

Also I get fantastic mid bass response!

I do wish I would have kept my 880 and at least tried to go active though, but now I don't have the deck or processor to do so. Oh well, I am happy still.

Good luck!

 

[skittlesRgood 10+ year member]

only thing i can think of is i have 18 guage running to the trunk where the crossover is. so its kinda long... think that could be it?

 

[AAAAAAA 10+ year member]

Defenetly close up that hole in the door.

In the mean time, try switching the phase of one of the speakers, I usually do the drivers side one. Only switch one.

Just reverse the pos and negative. Results can be surprising.

 

[alxmlr789 10+ year member]

close up the hole.

Mine was was worlds apart when i covered mine up.

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

ok... so im looking for more midbass/midrange. using the pioneers in my sig. im a little iffy about the trouble of going active but i want to ask you guys:
do you think i should go active (if so what unit) or do you know of a comp. set thatll give me much better mids? or just mid 6.5"s woofers thatll work with my crossover (heard you cant do that but im not sure).

now if active, can i use my pdx150.4? i have a pdx100.4 as well i could use but would that still be too much power?

Not sure if it was said, but you may not be able to go active with that HU. Pioneer 800 or 800prs can, or an Alpine 9887 would be a few you could go with.

You can use either your pdx 4.150 (what I am running) I am running the Ascendant Audio Poly 6.5 mids and the seas neo tweeters. And there is no need for crossovers when running an active setup. It is done through the Hu

You could also sell your one of your alpines and get a Sundown 100.4. It has active crossover built in IIRC.

 

[skittlesRgood 10+ year member]

alright ill get the stuff to seal that hole. quick question on that... some of the plastic nuts that the door's bolts screw into are striped. any idea where i can get new ones? or a better solution?

 

[skittlesRgood 10+ year member]

so ive had my subs off to day and played around with my pioneers... to get them to sound good the volume was at 45/62 and the bass boost was at +2. they sounded GREAT once i did that but i dont want bass boost on with the subs and id like them to sound decent at a lower volume. so ill patch that hole and see if it does anything.

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

so ive had my subs off to day and played around with my pioneers... to get them to sound good the volume was at 45/62 and the bass boost was at +2. they sounded GREAT once i did that but i dont want bass boost on with the subs and id like them to sound decent at a lower volume. so ill patch that hole and see if it does anything.

It'll make a world of difference once you seal that hole up, guaranteed.

Your door now as it stands is pretty much the same as you mounting a speaker in your house on a baffle, you basically don't have a proper enclosure for it. Generally car audio speakers are meant to be run IB, which when mounted in a door is a very very large sealed box, and a completely separated front and rear sound wave.

What you have there is neither.