Mono amp with 2 inputs

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

So I have two D2 subs that I was going to wire together for a final load of 2ohms. If I use this amp below, and wire each sub at 1ohm to the inputs does the amp see a 1ohm final load or a 2ohm final load? I'm not sure how these newer amps are supposed to be wired that are monoblock but have the dual speaker terminals.

MB Quart ONX1.1500D - ONYX Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier/Amp

Everything I see doesn't really explain how these new terminals are working, I just know that they are meant to provide more wiring options. If I can wire these D2's to 1ohm each and run the amp at 1ohm final I would like to do that.

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[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

2 dual 2 ohm subs wired at 1 ohm won't happen. You can wire them @ .5 or 2 or 8. The amp is internally bridged, so no options on wiring @ amp. The two sets of outputs is only there for you to be able to use more wire per (+)/(-).

 

[xSPLoder 10+ year member]

2 dual 2 ohm subs wired at 1 ohm won't happen. You can wire them @ .5 or 2 or 8. The amp is internally bridged, so no options on wiring @ amp. The two sets of outputs is only there for you to be able to use more wire per (+)/(-).

Well put

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

I know that if you wire 2 2ohm subs together that it doesn't create a 1 ohm load. Just wanted to make sure that wiring them independently at 1ohm on there wouldn't give me anything less. I had seen all these new amps with these terminals but hadn't seen much yet on how they are internally bridged. Where is a good article for these?

 

[DoesDad 10+ year member]

If the amp has 2 speaker inputs (which it does) then putting one at one ohm into the left and the other at one ohm into the right you're cool. You're still at a one ohm load with the wattage being split between the speakers by the amps internal bridge.

 

[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

BTW what subs are they?

And how were you going to wire them? Series or Parrallel? If you wire all (+) and all (-) tied together it will give you a final load of .5 ohm.

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

@ mattbennett. They are type r's. I am wondering about wiring it like doesdad said above. It has 4 inputs on the amp, 2 pos 2 neg. I would wire each sub down to 1 ohm on the left side pos and neg, and the other sub at 1ohm on the right side pos and neg. The subs would not be wired together at all. I know what you are talking about matt with only being able to wire them together at .5, 2, or 8. They will not be wired to each in any way. Here is kind of a ghetto drawing of it

amp

+ - / + -

sub

++ -- / ++ --

 

[DoesDad 10+ year member]

BTW what subs are they?
And how were you going to wire them? Series or Parrallel? If you wire all (+) and all (-) tied together it will give you a final load of .5 ohm.

I think that was the whole point. He didn't want a .5 ohm load.

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

I think that was the whole point. He didn't want a .5 ohm load.

Correct. Reason I am asking is that I am going to fiberglass these into each quarter panel of my trunk cause I still need to keep room for the kids stuff. If I can just wire the subs each at 1 ohm and hook like I drew above to the amp and either stay at 1ohm or 2ohm(again, wasn't sure how the internal bridging would see it), then I wont mess up the amp by running at .5 and then I don't have to run wires between the 2 subs across the trunk trying to get a 2 ohm load. I will have 1 sub on each side of the car, so just trying to cut down on the amount of wire I need and keep it simple

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

@ mattbennett. They are type r's. I am wondering about wiring it like doesdad said above. It has 4 inputs on the amp, 2 pos 2 neg. I would wire each sub down to 1 ohm on the left side pos and neg, and the other sub at 1ohm on the right side pos and neg. The subs would not be wired together at all. I know what you are talking about matt with only being able to wire them together at .5, 2, or 8. They will not be wired to each in any way. Here is kind of a ghetto drawing of it
amp

+ - / + -

sub

++ -- / ++ --

The amp has more that one set of outputs strictly for the convenience of wiring multiple subs. You will need to wire each subs' voice coils in series and then wire the subs to the amp in parallel, it doesn't matter if you run 1 set of wires from the speaker box to the amp, or 2. The amp will see a 2 ohm load with this wiring configuration. If you are wanting more power, look for an amp that produces the power you need at 2 ohms or a .5 ohm stable amp. Probably cheaper to just buy 2 D4 subs and wire them at 1 ohm.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Missed the other post, but yeah, you could wire the subs in series at the amp and still have the 2ohm load.

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

The amp has more that one set of outputs strictly for the convenience of wiring multiple subs. You will need to wire each subs' voice coils in series and then wire the subs to the amp in parallel, it doesn't matter if you run 1 set of wires from the speaker box to the amp, or 2. The amp will see a 2 ohm load with this wiring configuration. If you are wanting more power, look for an amp that produces the power you need at 2 ohms or a .5 ohm stable amp. Probably cheaper to just buy 2 D4 subs and wire them at 1 ohm.

Unfortunately I already have the subs and they are D2. I traded for them brand new. I am trying to work on a really tight budget cause I don't want to spend a ton on audio, so I really like this amp for the money. Was just making sure and wondering. I am fine with just running 1k, but wasn't sure about the 4 inputs and if I could get the extra 500 with wiring it different then cool, if not, no biggie. Thanks guys

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Try a .5ohm load... Assuming you can back it up amp should be ok with this load.

 

[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

Unfortunately I already have the subs and they are D2. I traded for them brand new. I am trying to work on a really tight budget cause I don't want to spend a ton on audio, so I really like this amp for the money. Was just making sure and wondering. I am fine with just running 1k, but wasn't sure about the 4 inputs and if I could get the extra 500 with wiring it different then cool, if not, no biggie. Thanks guys

Try a .5ohm load... Assuming you can back it up amp should be ok with this load.

Yesh I didn't know whether or not that amp would be in fact .5 stable. Seeing that he needs super tight budgeting I would say electrical needs beefing too. BUT, I do know that the BXI (Hifonics Brutus) series amps were .5 stable so that could also be an option and you can get them fairly reasonable (bxi1600d) for example.

 

[CrossoverOre 10+ year member]

OUTPUTS! You dont hook up subs to the input.

@ mattbennett. They are type r's. I am wondering about wiring it like doesdad said above. It has 4 inputs on the amp, 2 pos 2 neg. I would wire each sub down to 1 ohm on the left side pos and neg, and the other sub at 1ohm on the right side pos and neg. The subs would not be wired together at all. I know what you are talking about matt with only being able to wire them together at .5, 2, or 8. They will not be wired to each in any way. Here is kind of a ghetto drawing of it
amp

+ - / + -

sub

++ -- / ++ --

Imagine inside the amp there is a bus bar connecting the +-+ and ---. So even if externally the speakers are seperate, internally they are parallel