Well I've done cs244 truck alt and the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wires. so as far as the electrical aspect on my ws6, im good to go. Yes i'll be going with the stealthbox. I used to own a jl stealthbox minus the subwoofer but i sold it. ( wish i kept it). So far what i bought for my system is a kenwood excelon dmx 905s headunit and an alpine pdx-f6 150x4 amp and kee audio amp rack. as far as my componenet sets, I want to get some hertz hsk165xl but any other component sets that are comparable that anyone suggests with be ok for the fronts and delete my sail panels speakers. What im contemplating is using my 4 channel amp to run my component sets active then buy a mono amp for the subs or i can run my component set passive and use the other 2 channel for the subs ( yes i know i be underpowering it) or I can sell my alpine amp and buy a 5 channel. decisions decisions. My goal is to have a nice clean sounding ride. My old system was fosgate amps with soundstream subs, but this was back in 2000 lol. I had good luck with fosgate amp in the past. Also back in the days, fosgate amps with jl audio subs were a killer comboFunny I came across this and registered just to try and help, maybe wake the thread up a little? I think you're question is way to broad so hopefully I can help narrow things down a little.
I'm pretty much in the same exact boat as you and have been doing a done of research but hopefully others with more experience can chime in to help.
I assume you're using the same pre-fab box as I have from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFEG52K/?tag=caraudiocom-20
(I know Pre-fab is considered heresy in almost all aspects but for those of us in 4th Gen F-Bodies who still want to be able to use what little trunk space we have and mount our T-tops, these stealth boxes are an easy compromise.)
The first thing I would do is ask are you running the stock alternator and do you want to run 500 Watts as recommended for that Sub? Gm F-bodies have very weak electrical systems from the factory and can dim the lights on a Class D 300W amp, which is why I ask. (Ask me how I know)
Seeing as that sub's recommended box size is .5 I'm unsure how much effect a .75 sealed box will have but it looks like for those of us using small sealed enclosures, you could use some poly-fil to help the sub hit lower? I'm still reading threads on poly-fil and its effects on sealed enclosures.
Using the KISS principle, I'd probably point you at the Rockford R500X1D with a SD-3 10" D4 wired @ 2 ohms and call it a day.
I guess if the Rockford isn't to your liking, what are your goals and budget?
I personally would first get a larger alternator (I run a 200 Amp built specifically for our cars) then depending on goals/budget or brand preference I might be able to help more. I'm currently looking at Zapco or JL.
i've never heard of taramps before. How good are the quality. I've been out of the car audio game for a long time. Last system i had was 2 12 soundstream mules spl with a fosgate 500a2 bridgedTaramps MD1200 would be a good match. Very small amp that does rated power. Plenty of headroom to work with impedance rise.
I hadn't heard of Taramps either. I have three installed right now and they are legit.i've never heard of taramps before. How good are the quality. I've been out of the car audio game for a long time. Last system i had was 2 12 soundstream mules spl with a fosgate 500a2 bridged
Lol I busted my 10 bolt 2 weeks after i installed my cam in my ws6. I have a built t56 trans and a Ford 9inch with strange 3.70 gears. I'm afraid if I out some midbass in the sails, it might overwhelm the 10inch sub, that y I was thinking of deleting them instead. I haven't heard cdt comp sets, but I've heard the hertz hsk165 and I was blown away how clean they sounded. Like I said I have a alpine pdx f6 so I do have a decent amp for mids n highs. Btw here my ws6Great to hear about the electrical! I did all of the same things! I could go on forever about the weak AF electrical and 10-Bolts in these cars from the factory but I digress...lol
I would recommend keeping the sail panels and put a good 6.5 mid in there to level out the system. At least that is what I did and I'm happy with the results. Granted, I went with Kee's audio CDT stuff for my mids/highs to minimize wire re-runs and for an entry level SQ system I'm very happy with the results. IMHO I'd run a set of CDT ES-06+ (some of the best mid drivers I've ever heard for our cars) in series for the sail panels and get another Amp to run your sub. (http://www.keeaudio.com/id153.html)
From what I've read around a number of different forums, the Rockfords are still considered a rock solid "consumer" level choice, not over rated etc.
Not knocking the Taramps but would it be safe to overdrive a shallow mount SD-4 so much? Great price though for sure!
Nice looking T/A! Not to many clean ones around anymore unfortunately. I'm still running my 10-Bolt currently but only because this is my 2nd T/A that I'm really taking care of and building right. First one when I was younger I went through 3 engines, 2 transmissions and a 10-Bolt before I stopped racing and sold it. My current one I bought 6 years ago with 65k miles on it and is a weekend car that I take out to local car shows occasionally. I've added a considerable amount of suspension/handling mods, LT1-S clutch, some Tick pieces and a baby TSP 224R stick. A Midwest fabbed 9 and P1SC will be added in the next couple of years, I just haven't decided on all of the other supporting mods to go with them yet (Fueling/possible LS2 long block-I spend a lot of time over on LS1Tech). I did however just buy her CCW 18x11 Classics this past fall which I'm very happy with. She's not a drag car, just a canyon carver that can outcorner most Miata's while listening to some good tunes.Lol I busted my 10 bolt 2 weeks after i installed my cam in my ws6. I have a built t56 trans and a Ford 9inch with strange 3.70 gears. I'm afraid if I out some midbass in the sails, it might overwhelm the 10inch sub, that y I was thinking of deleting them instead. I haven't heard cdt comp sets, but I've heard the hertz hsk165 and I was blown away how clean they sounded. Like I said I have a alpine pdx f6 so I do have a decent amp for mids n highs. Btw here my ws6
If we keep talking about our cars instead of the stereo's in them I'm afraid the Mods might come in and lock the thread!Clean ws6. Love the wheel setup My car is cam only with a torquer 2 cam. Lowered with hotchkiss springs and kyb shocks. My rear end is a fully built Moser 9inch with 31 spline moser axles, strange 3.70 gears with Detroit tru-trac posi and a steel 3inch driveshaft. Whole thing should support 1k hp+. This setup hasn't changed since 07. Lol I have an ls3 6l80e engine tranny combo but that for my c10 truck u see in the background in the pix. Huron speed just came out with a twin turbo setup that look very stealthy, which I'm considering. But that's another story.
Hi JTF,Anything ZAPCO or JL Audio.
Those are 2 of the most expensive amps on the market. I’m not denying that they are nice amps, but these are fan boy amps. Watts per dollar make them the most unfriendly amps around for budget. There are many amps that do the same watts for far less money. I ran a JL g1700 for years that I received in trade for a box build. It was nice, but it didn’t perform any better than some of the more budget friendly amps.Anything ZAPCO or JL Audio.
Yes I can understand that as the law of dimishing returns dictates this.Those are 2 of the most expensive amps on the market. I’m not denying that they are nice amps, but these are fan boy amps. Watts per dollar make them the most unfriendly amps around for budget. There are many amps that do the same watts for far less money. I ran a JL g1700 for years that I received in trade for a box build. It was nice, but it didn’t perform any better than some of the more budget friendly amps.
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