MMATS: Question PLEASE HELP GUYS

[*Honda*Bass* 10+ year member]

Okay here this is whats up, I have a MMATS 1600.1 1-ohm stable. I have 2 15in. kicker L7 4ohm subs wired to a 1 ohm load and i also have 2 15in. L7 2ohm subs that could be wired down to a .5 ohm load. I am currently am using the 4ohm subs.

I am using the 4ohm subs now as i should with the amp,but the 2ohm subs are brand new and want to keep those and sell my 4ohm L7's.

Now will running my 2ohm L7's at .5 ohms on my 1ohm stable MMATS amp be to much on the amp? The amp is 1ohm stable and would be running it at .5 ohms.

Thank you very much and BTW I got good deals on the subs thats why i got 4 of the ba5tards.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

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[mazzasec 5,000+ posts]

Dont run it a .5!

 

[*Honda*Bass* 10+ year member]

Dont run it a .5!

yea i figured.... prolly gonna need get a .5 ohm stable amp. any suggestions? stay with MMATS?

 

[mazzasec 5,000+ posts]

yea i figured.... prolly gonna need get a .5 ohm stable amp. any suggestions? stay with MMATS?

There really isnt any "stable" .5 amps out there. Especially if its a daily setup and you like to play for long periods of time .5 isnt a good option. Unless you can keep your electrical like higher then 13 at full tilt.

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

I think even MMATS will tell you NOT to run their .5 ohm stable amplifier daily since it was designed to be a straight up, pure competition amplifier.

Why not get another 1600.1 and run one to each sub if you want to use the D2s?

ETA: What did you do to upgrade the electrical in your Honda? I had to downgrade to an ODB1 ECU to get rid of my ELD detection because it rendered my 170 amp alternator useless. Now I have some juice, but it was way bigger of a PITA than I initially thought it would be.

 

[*Honda*Bass* 10+ year member]

I think even MMATS will tell you NOT to run their .5 ohm stable amplifier daily since it was designed to be a straight up, pure competition amplifier.
Why not get another 1600.1 and run one to each sub if you want to use the D2s?

ETA: What did you do to upgrade the electrical in your Honda? I had to downgrade to an ODB1 ECU to get rid of my ELD detection because it rendered my 170 amp alternator useless. Now I have some juice, but it was way bigger of a PITA than I initially thought it would be.

Well i never did think about that.... what is the amp rated at, at 2ohms? Ima look real quick.

I have a 160 amp Boss altanator, Kinetik HC600 not yet hooked up, 0 gauge wire from front to back and really good wires all around. I havent done the "BIG 3" yet, but plan to. Also i want to get a kinetik HC2000.

 

[*Honda*Bass* 10+ year member]

The MMATS 1600.1 would only do 625rms @ 2 ohms is the problem. The L7 15's take 1000rms each.

Specifications

D1600.1 D1600.2

STABLE TO: 1 ohm 2 ohm

SINE-WAVE POWER

@ 13.8 Volts:

Watts @ 1 ohms mono 1 X1600 N/A

Watts @ 2 ohms mono 1 X 900 1 X 1600

RESISTIVE (RMS) POWER

@ 13.8 Volts:

Watts @ 1 ohms mono 1 X 1150 N/A

Watts @ 2 ohms mono 1 X 625 1 X 1150

Idle Current: 1.5 amp 1.5 amp

Signal to Noise Ratio A-Wtd:

Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.3% 0.3%

Channel Separation: N/A N/A

Input Sensitivity: 150mV-2.5V 150mV-2.5V

Slew Rate: 13V / Usec 13V / Usec

Fuse Rating: 60 amp 60 amp