MMATS 2000wrms amp, fuse rating only 100A huh???

Deeper_shades
10+ year member

of underground
so I just bought the mmats m2000.2d amp, should be hear this week //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Im getting everything ready and I was looking on their site it says the fuse rating is only 100a??? this just dont seem right for a 2000wrms amp?

can anyone enlighten me?

 
i have a few mmats dhcx 2200.1 and 2200.05...... only a 150 amp rating and they ARE underated... not sure if they are still make'em as good as a few years ago but there are very good amps. i could see that amp doin 2000rms

 
i have a few mmats dhcx 2200.1 and 2200.05...... only a 150 amp rating and they ARE underated... not sure if they are still make'em as good as a few years ago but there are very good amps. i could see that amp doin 2000rms
and what would be the current draw by the amp at 2000W RMS????

 
If you can keep your voltage where it needs to be you could most likely run smaller than that. At 12 volts - 100% efficnecy ( fuck spelling ), It could do 1200 but going by fuse ratings is obsolete. And correct me if im wrong but if your running it at 2 ohm since its the 2 ohm model, itll have less draw than a 1 ohm model correct ?

 
I have a 1600.2 in my closet and it slammed 2 kicker 12" subs. Gain was set at less than 1/2. I believe MMATS web site used to say it could run with stock electrical but I'd recommend at least 1 extra batt in back to get best results.

 
obviously, you can't expect 2000W RMS from the amp.
I dunno man, do some searches on mmats, from what I have read, they are underrated, and very very efficient.

If you can keep your voltage where it needs to be you could most likely run smaller than that. At 12 volts - 100% efficnecy ( fuck spelling ), It could do 1200 but going by fuse ratings is obsolete. And correct me if im wrong but if your running it at 2 ohm since its the 2 ohm model, itll have less draw than a 1 ohm model correct ?
Ya 2 ohms should draw less power

 
they may be efficient, but they aren't more than 85% efficient. so at 100A draw at 14VDC (best case) you're looking at 1400W RMS draw, and at 85% efficiency you're at 1190W RMS output (unclipped) as the fuse heats and blows. And that's at 14VDC supply. at 12VDC the power output will be even less (unless the amp has a regulated power supply making rated power between a 11-15VDC supply).

in order to do 2000W RMS unclipped output you'd need 2353W RMS input and at 14V that's 168 Amps.

it's pretty simple Ohms law calculations. Efficiency will vary based on impedance load, output voltage will vary based on impedance load, but power input will always be greater than power output (heat = wasted power).

I don't care if you've "heard" they are "underrated". the amplifier fusing will limit the amount of continuous power it can draw, thus limiting the amount of power it can output.

Based on the fusing, you can expect rated THD.

If you clip the amp, the average power output will be much more, hence the "rating". I'm sure you can clip it so you get 2000W RMS or Average Power out of the amp. But you wouldn't want to hear it nor give it to your subs.

 
I don't care if you've "heard" they are "underrated". the amplifier fusing will limit the amount of continuous power it can draw, thus limiting the amount of power it can output.

QUOTE]

sooooo he should put a 150amp or even a 200amp fuse in there to get more power?!?!?!?!! i know what it is, you must work at bestbuy.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

LMFAO
 
I don't care if you've "heard" they are "underrated". the amplifier fusing will limit the amount of continuous power it can draw, thus limiting the amount of power it can output.

QUOTE]

sooooo he should put a 150amp or even a 200amp fuse in there to get more power?!?!?!?!! i know what it is, you must work at bestbuy.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

LMFAO
if that is what you take from that statement, you're an idiot. i never recommend making the fuse larger than the mfr supplies. amplifier fusing is still a good benchmark of knowing now realistic the ratings are - i've yet to meet an amp that defies ohms law or even the conservation of energy.

yep, you got me. BestBuy hires Acoustics Engineers now - we're next to the washing machines. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
 
lets not turn this into a shit show.......I love a good debate but play nice.

im cancelled the amp, going thinking to go back to my original plan, ap3000.1 and going to have the get a HO alt, which I didnt want to do, but do not have any choice.

heres on for you,

AP30001D VS. Hifonics Colossus

running daily, with big *** 100a batt under the hood, 150a machman alt.....dont plan on going louder than 2k im looking for SQL over SPL...

so again, im looking for efficiency, as my electrical aint huge, but should be enough to pull this off

 
because it was stolen, they couldn't get the subs because I build part of it in my trunk...

mmats is out of the question, im not going to buy a amp that will under power my subs, for twice the price

 
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