Hello, I'm looking to change my Autotek SM4-1000 amplifier and buy a amplifier that has more Louder, Clean and more efficient Power at a decent low price. Don't offer me an amp that has less rms power.
Thank you.
Thank you.
- LOL that amp looks WAYYYY OVERRATED to me IMO... 50 amps of fusing and it says it will do 1k rms (250 x 4 @ 2 ohms) - Yeah I think NOT - OP wouldn't take much of a QUALITY 4 ch to surpass that amp - Just sayin...Hello, I'm looking to change my Autotek SM4-1000 amplifier and buy a amplifier that has more Louder, Clean and more efficient Power at a decent low price. Don't offer me an amp that has less rms power.
Thank you.
Alpine pdx 4.100Hello, I'm looking to change my Autotek SM4-1000 amplifier and buy a amplifier that has more Louder, Clean and more efficient Power at a decent low price. Don't offer me an amp that has less rms power.
Thank you.
If you trust that it makes rated power why do you want a new amp?Really, so you guys say that the amp I have doesn't make not even close of the power that it says?
Well its rating is 1000peak power not rms..with the 50a fusing id get around 500rms at best if it does anywhere near rated ..so realistically probably does like 75x4 @4ohmsReally, so you guys say that the amp I have doesn't make not even close of the power that it says?
Nah, I don't trust it like that, I mean my amp is not bad, actually I find it very good for the money. I just want an amplifier with more sq and more clean power.If you trust that it makes rated power why do you want a new amp?
We buy more power than our speakers are rated for not for extra loudness, but for transient peaks in well produced music. Going from 75W RMS per channel to 150W RMS per channel(just an example) doesn't make the music twice as loud. If you want more power for more boom boom from your mids this isn't quite what you need. A better quality amplifier will help overall to improve clarity, if you have poor quality power now.
Which will be better for mids, a Class D amp with high pass crossovers?, or a class A/B amp? Why?We've got a PPI P900.4 here with your name on it.
I'm not sure what the crossovers has to do with Class D or AB. If you need the bandpass crossovers of the P900.4 then get it. The P900.4 sounds great. I ran one for a year and the only reason I took it out was to try something different. It's also small and efficient, which you can't usually say about a Class AB amplifier. Certainly not about one that comes anywhere close to the same power ratings of the P900.4.Which will be better for mids, a Class D amp with high pass crossovers?, or a class A/B amp? Why?
My question is, Which will be better and more efficient for mids, a Class D amp?, or a class A/B amp? Why?I'm not sure what the crossovers has to do with Class D or AB. If you need the bandpass crossovers of the P900.4 then get it. The P900.4 sounds great. I ran one for a year and the only reason I took it out was to try something different. It's also small and efficient, which you can't usually say about a Class AB amplifier. Certainly not about one that comes anywhere close to the same power ratings of the P900.4.
Class D is more efficient. If you don't care about the physical size of the amplifier and if the crossovers aren't a deciding factor(which I'm unsure of since you didn't respond to that matter) then I can't tell you Class D or Class AB is better. For me, D is better because I want to run as much power as I can without upgrading my alternator or adding batteries. Amplifiers don't all sound the same, but you can't truly know that without trying a number of amplifiers. I promise you, my Class D amplifier is not lacking in sound quality, so don't believe it if someone says they can't sound good.My question is, Which will be better and more efficient for mids, a Class D amp?, or a class A/B amp? Why?