Would door pods negate the need for deadening since a pod would be acting as the enclosure?They are in phase if midbass increases when You are equidistant from both, I.e. in the middle.
I agree that deadening willh help, and sealing the door openings and adding proper seals is crucial for midbass. In your seat you are hearing the front and back wave at the same time (due to lack of seals) so you don't hear midbass. To obtain good midbass Sealing your doors is #1 and #2. That is seal the door openings and seal around the speaker. Deadener is #3.
Having T/A will help as well. You are a different distance from each. That difference results in cancellation.
yes. Like he said, you need to seal the holes in your doors with something rigid ( i use deadener on top of thin sheet aluminum). The deadener adds mass to the door panels to prevent vibrations and rattles. That probably wont be an issue with kick pods so you probably wont need deadener on the doors.Would door pods negate the need for deadening since a pod would be acting as the enclosure?
listen to this guy OP, great dude, I love the way my system sounds now and alot of the ideas I got and the installing tips I received were from K_H_AThey are in phase if midbass increases when You are equidistant from both, I.e. in the middle.
I agree that deadening willh help, and sealing the door openings and adding proper seals is crucial for midbass. In your seat you are hearing the front and back wave at the same time (due to lack of seals) so you don't hear midbass. To obtain good midbass Sealing your doors is #1 and #2. That is seal the door openings and seal around the speaker. Deadener is #3.
Having T/A will help as well. You are a different distance from each. That difference results in cancellation.
the thing to worry about here would be enclosure volume. Car audio midbass drivers are designed to perform IB, so a simple pod wont perform as well as a sealed door. You can maybe make pods work, but you'll need a good bit of power to get the same amount of output you would in your door IB and that still may not yield the same results.Would door pods negate the need for deadening since a pod would be acting as the enclosure?
My issue with deadening the doors is i do not plan on having the truck too terribly long, maybe 2 years at the most before i get something new. With the center console i can either sell it with the truck for a added fee or i can sell it to someone on craigslist to recover atleast a tiny portion of the cost. Same for door pods. Deadening however, would be staying with the truck and i wouldn't see any of that money back. Cost efficiency my friends.it could, but the thing to worry about here would be enclosure volume. Car audio midbass drivers are designed to perform IB, so a pod, if not large enough, wont perform as well as a sealed door. You can make smaller pods work, but you'll need a good bit of power to get the same amount of output you would in your door IB and that still may not yield the same results.
shouldnt be terribly expensive...you could just get some sheet metal or some wood and cover those holes. Audio Technix makes some nice budget deadener you could use.My issue with deadening the doors is i do not plan on having the truck too terribly long, maybe 2 years at the most before i get something new. With the center console i can either sell it with the truck for a added fee or i can sell it to someone on craigslist to recover atleast a tiny portion of the cost. Same for door pods. Deadening however, would be staying with the truck and i wouldn't see any of that money back. Cost efficiency my friends.
I may just have to bite the bullet on this one and spend the cash on some deadening.
The real problem is budgeting it in, along with the 97 z71 restoration, remodel of a 90 year old house, 3 kids, wife, yadda yadda yadda.Dude, two years? Long enough to do it right. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Start with foam seals around the speaker. $6 investment.