MECA rule question

Propimp
10+ year member

I will shake you
rule for Amateur Street Division number 3.

3. OEM headliner or functional equivalent must be in vehicle and may be reupholstered, but not built with fiberglass or any other hard rigid

material. Headlinersmust be able to be removed, if necessary, to verify sound deadening on the roof of the vehicle.

:wow:Do they really want you to take down your head liner... And also are they saying that you have to have sound deading or that you cant have it?

 
Sounds as tho they want the headliner to be removable, incase someone suspects you of haveing an illegal type of deadening installed.

You can have it, or not, if you so choose. That would be up to you if you want to install the deadener.

 
rule for Amateur Street Division number 3.3. OEM headliner or functional equivalent must be in vehicle and may be reupholstered, but not built with fiberglass or any other hard rigid

material. Headlinersmust be able to be removed, if necessary, to verify sound deadening on the roof of the vehicle.

:wow:Do they really want you to take down your head liner... And also are they saying that you have to have sound deading or that you cant have it?
They will not take down your head liner. It should however remain stock, no fiberglass etc.........World finals is the only place i would imagine it would cause a problem. I had my trunk inspected at world finals to make sure i had only 1 layer of sound matting. The headliner was not an issue.

 
also the classes go:AS1 0 - 750

AS2 751 - 1200

AS3 1201 - 2000

Is that the total watts for both your sub amp and the componet amp?
That is the cone area allowed per class + amount of fusing allowed. Example a single 15 + 50 amps for fusing put me in AS1. There is a site to figure out your class, ill look for it.

 
Concerning the first question on sound deadener, its a sort of rule that you respect and abide by in hopes that you dont attempt to cheat. Only at events such as world finals have I ever had to take apart my vehicle to support the fact that I got such a high score with one sub without doing anything special in the way of deading.

On the second question, fusing only pertains to your subwoofer amp only. You dont even have to technically have your mid/high amp fused. And remember, the AS class rating you listed are not just a wattage rating, but a combined equasion factoring in woofer cone surface area and fusing.

The equasion works like : {(Total Amperage of In-line Fusing X 10) + Woofer Cone Surface Area} = Pressure Class #

Examples:

40 amps + 2-12 = 626

50 amps + 1-12 = 613

50 amps + 1-15 = 677

50 amps + 1-18 = 754

50 amps + 1-12^2 = 644

50 amps + 2-12 = 726

100 amps + 1-15 = 1177

100 amps + 2-18 = 1509

50 amps + 2-10^2 = 700

100 amps + 2-12 = 1226

200 amps + 2-15 = 2353

200 amps + 2-18 = 2509

50 amps + 3-10 = 736

200 amps + 2-12 = 2226

400 amps + 4-15 = 4707

400 amps + 4-18 = 5018

AS - Amateur Street - Basic, daily use systems. Beginners & those who have not been champions. Owns equipment. No Pro’s.

AS1 0 - 750

AS2 751 - 1200

AS3 1201 - 2000

S - Street - Intended for daily driven vehicles. Competitors show who can do the most with the least.

S1 0 - 750

S2 751 - 1200

S3 1201 - 2000

S4 2001 - 4000

S5 4001+

M - Modified - Vehicles with non-permanent modifications behind the B-pillars, including woofer walls.

M1 0 -750

M2 751 - 1200

M3 1201 - 2000

M4 2001 - 4000

M5 4001+

MX - Modex - Intended for competitors with vehicles that have limited modifications in front of the B-pillars and structural, chassis, or body modifications behind the B-pillars and are designed strictly with SPL competition in mind. Allows for unlimited batteries and charging system modifications, woofer walls, pick-up truck cut-throughs.

MX1 0 - 2000

MX2 2001- 4000

MX3 4001+

X - “Radical X” - Vehicles with major modifications; for the hard-core Sound Presssure League competitor.

X1 0 - 4000

X2 4001+

DB - “Drive-by SPL Parade” Format - Measures sound pressure level outside the vehicle.

DB1 0 - 750

DB2 751 - 1200

DB3 1201 - 2000

DB4 2001 - 4000

DB5 4001+

 
http://www.mecacaraudio.com/2008Rulebook/sub%20area%20chart.pdf

that should answer your fuse + sub question. You must be fused before the amp as well, 18 inches i believe. You might have to test with various fuses to determine what class suits you the best. Lower the better generally.

SNOOP BEAT ME TO AT, and explained better!!!!!!
Thanks alot Snoop, Now in some spots in my trunk I have it double Layers of Deadener, is this a problem?

15nissenthat sucks, I have no fuse before my amp, just after the batt. I will buy an inline fuse for it and do like you say and play with diffrent fuse sizes

 
nm I found it on the rule page. Thanks for all of the help. now maybe I can compete at the next local event.

Not that it will deter me in any way, how are the people at these things for the most part? If I do a run and hit a 129.3 or something will I get some laughter outa the crown or the people pretty nice for the most part and try to help you out?

 
yes, you need a fuse just before the bass amp(s) or the whole 300A for the battery fuse will be factored in. Fusing the sub amps separately allows them to class you based only on what your bass system is drawing.

 
Shit, I read farther down and am confused again about the fuse thing.

4. In-line fuse(s) must be placed immediately before the subwoofer amplifier(s) a maximum of 18” from the amplifier(s) and all positive power wires leading to the subwoofer amplifier(s) must be fused.

But then it also says

For non-members and members who are not qualifying: If the system does not have in-line fusing, then the total of on-board fuses will be used in the “Pressure Class” Formula.

If the amplifier(s) do not have on-board fuses, then one-half (1/2) the amplifier’s Maximum CEA 2006

rating will be used in order to determine class assignment.

If that rating is not available, then one-half (1/2) the maximum peak rating will be used.

If that is not available, then one-half (1/2) the maximum published rating will be used.

If that is not available, then one-half (1/2) the theoretical rating will be used.

 
Forget the theoretical fusing, its not worth the headache.

Here is the basics on fusing :

Have a fuse at least 18" from your amplifier. The idea in the lower MECA classes is to be able to get as loud of a score as you can with the least amount of fusing. It is completely ok to have a 10,000 watt amplifier in an amature class - but if you cant get a fuse to hold on that much power then that big of an amp is worthless to you. The combination of fuse size and woofer size determines what class your put into. Getting your equipment to behave within that class is entirely up to you.

 
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