Losing high end audio/amp doesn't flinch

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This only happens when I turn it up to volume 20 out of volume 35 Max. It'll be playing super loud and then the highs will just kind of Fade Out really quick into static and then go completely blank and my base will stay on on my sub and then about 5 seconds later it will slowly fade back in and then if I keep it up high it'll do it again. I have a 4 ohm amp with Phoenix Gold 4 ohm component and kicker 6.5 4 ohm. The amp does not go into protect mode at all the amp doesn't power off when this happens the amp isn't hot. Could I have too many watts for my car? Because my headlights don't dim at all when I have my stereo up nothing actually dims in my car it seems pretty strong I have a schematic of my setup I'll put on there and if anybody wants a good look up and see if they can help. If anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear them because I've tried everything even changing my front speakers from 2 ohm to 4 ohm

7158f8be14524f92ccec1a0fb6e61d41.jpg


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if you have a slight short in the speaker wires it can cause the amp to fade out then come back. Even one wire strand shorting out (usually at a speaker or crossover connection). While it would normally go into protect, it's possible the short is slight enough it isn't going into protect but reacting similar. To test if this is the case, you can isolate connections by removing one speaker wire pair at a time and see if the results are replicated.

Of course, measuring voltage at the amp is important as a loose ground can cause this also. If you measure lower voltage at the amp terminals, the ground may be compromised. Ring terminal to bare metal, properly torqued, etc. will fail over time due to oxidation and vibration.

 
Just like what KHA said, there's either a short in the wiring or the voltage is dropping. What kind of vehicle is it? What kind of electrical upgrades have been done, have you tried measuring the input voltage at the amp's power terminals when this happens?

 
Just like what KHA said, there's either a short in the wiring or the voltage is dropping. What kind of vehicle is it? What kind of electrical upgrades have been done, have you tried measuring the input voltage at the amp's power terminals when this happens?
Its a 2006 dodge dakota quadcab. My alt. is 136A. Nothing in my truck flickers whenI have the volume up. Ive done the big three upgrade so far and have all 0 gauge wiring up to the distribution block.

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This only happens when I turn it up to volume 20 out of volume 35 Max. It'll be playing super loud and then the highs will just kind of Fade Out really quick into static and then go completely blank and my base will stay on on my sub and then about 5 seconds later it will slowly fade back in and then if I keep it up high it'll do it again. I have a 4 ohm amp with Phoenix Gold 4 ohm component and kicker 6.5 4 ohm. The amp does not go into protect mode at all the amp doesn't power off when this happens the amp isn't hot. Could I have too many watts for my car? Because my headlights don't dim at all when I have my stereo up nothing actually dims in my car it seems pretty strong I have a schematic of my setup I'll put on there and if anybody wants a good look up and see if they can help. If anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear them because I've tried everything even changing my front speakers from 2 ohm to 4 ohm
7158f8be14524f92ccec1a0fb6e61d41.jpg


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Edit: I took my kicker amp into Stereo Warehouse in Seattle and had my amp tested. He came back and told me that it was fried, which didnt make alot og sense to me because it worked good except for when it cut out. Im just saying it didnt act like a blown amp. He made sure it was blown though when he smokex it right in front of me. Not sure if he did it on purpose to try and sell me a new amp or it was legit fried. Either way, i now need a new 4 channel amp

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Cassix

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