Lights dimming. Add a capacitor, upgrade batters, or add a second battery?

[skogie1 10+ year member]

I run two amps off a battery for a 2004 Nissan Sentra, a kicker ZX350.4 and an Alpine MRP M-1000. The battery is 7 yrs old and most likely needs replacing regardless of what I choose to do. The kicker amp powers four speakers all rated at 60w rms and the alpine amp powers two kicker compvr 10's rated at 400w rms each. My lights dim when the volume is waaay up and the bass hits hard.

Should I try replacing the current battery and running off that alone, use a capacitor, or wire in a second battery? Pros and cons of each?

Also, when my lights dim, am I losing power to the amp or am I just losing power to the car lights. I'm happy to sacrifice a bit of brightness for sound power, but not vice versa!

Also, I chose to forgo a power distribution block and just ran the hot leads for the amps both off the + terminal. Is there any reason not to do this? I couldn't figure out why I would need a distribution block.

Thanks in advance to anyone who has a response/opinion.

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[benzmansl65amg 10+ year member]

No cap. When lights dim system voltage drops so everything sees a lower voltage including your amps. How big is your factory alternator? Also, I would recomend 2 fresh batteries.

 

[Fiendstolemyamp 10+ year member]

Do the big three & then see where you stand. Next step would be buying a new good battery for the front, which would be a good idea if yours is 7 yrs old I'd think.

 

[benzmansl65amg 10+ year member]

Big 3 for sure...

 

[mpowered325is 10+ year member]

I got the same problem running my Lanzar zed opti 2500 at full tilt in my 4Runner. I will be doing the big 3 along with a hc800 battery in the back to share the duty with the yellow top under hood. stupid AB high power amps! love the way they sound though

 

[blazeplacid 10+ year member]

if the battery is 7 years old I would change it today

Most last 4-5 years max

 

[-01limited- 10+ year member]

2nd the no caps. Do big 3 and maybe just get a new battery.

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

Cost effective solutions...

1. Big 3 - If that doesn't fix it go to step 2.

2. Upgrade battery to a deep cycle/starting battery. (biggest one you can fit) - If that doesn't work, go to step 3.

3. High output alternator.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Agreed, but I think a new battery and the big 3 is always step 1. A good AGM valve regulated lead acid battery, no flooded lead acid.

H.O. Alt is step 2.

Second or additional batteries is Step 3.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

And yes, you Are losing power when voltage drops. Notice you amps power rating is half at 12V as it is at 14.4V.

Install a volt meter you can se form the drivers seat, even the cig lighter socket models work for now. If you go below 12V, turn it down.

 

[skogie1 10+ year member]

Thanks to everyone for your opinions. Off to the car supply store right now...

 

[Bassin Brandon]

get a beefier alternator !!!!!

 

[skogie1 10+ year member]

Can I use welding cable for a big three upgrade? I don't see why not. It's designed for large amounts of electricity. And on that note, could it also be used to power the amps? It's much less expensive than buying amp cables from the audio stores. Thanks.

 

[benzmansl65amg 10+ year member]

yes just yous 1/0 gauge

 

---------- Post added at 07:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:50 AM ----------

 

use*

 

[skogie1 10+ year member]

Just out of curiosity, if the alternator only puts out 60 amps (it's the stock alt and I think that's the reading. 80 is definitely the most. 50-60 is the range I think.) then why do I need such a heavy wire for the big 3? I was looking at the 2 gauge which is rated to 190 amps, which seems like plenty plenty plenty. No?

I'm a newbie....

Thanks.