Lets see some HORN setups???

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

What's the point in having horns under the bed of a truck?

To be loud. Its fun having a switch to have music outside the car.

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

To be loud. Its fun having a switch to have music outside the car.

I guess. It's just not my kind of thing, man...

 

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

So having loud highs and bass inside the car is great, but as soon as it is outside the car, its automatically not cool anymore?

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

So having loud highs and bass inside the car is great, but as soon as it is outside the car, its automatically not cool anymore?

Yeah, man. That's exactly what I was trying to say. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

Yeah, man. That's exactly what I was trying to say. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

10-4.

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

10-4.

If you like it, that's cool. It's just not something that would be useful to me. I'm never in a situation where people outside of my vehicle need to hear my music. That's all.

 

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

Well we usually have a couple DB Drag/IASCA 1x events a month here within 3 hours, so I play them all the time.

Really no need to play them anywhere but shows or car meets.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

go over to diyma

F diyma and joo, too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

As ghetto as it looks, alot of people are surprised at how clean and low they play. I have one under each side of the bed. They both fire back and I have them on a switch.

I hope those get snagged by some roadkill or a speedbump

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

F diyma and joo, too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I hope those get snagged by some roadkill or a speedbump

Would piss my pants if there was a half a possum hanging off them..... or since he's in Florida, some Armadillo scraps.

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

As ghetto as it looks, alot of people are surprised at how clean and low they play. I have one under each side of the bed. They both fire back and I have them on a switch.

hate to say it,but but that is so trailerparkian!

 

[BigSix 10+ year member]

anyone else has any pics to show?

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

I''ll have pics up in a few days once my install is done if that helps any. Anyway HLCD's (horn loaded compression drivers) really aren't that hard to get good sound out of. What usually ends up happening is that horns are ALOT more effecient than the midbass/midranges they are paired to. Horns can be as high as 110db/1w/1m of output. Most good midranges for something like this are 100db/1w/1m at best. Usually, people who dont' know what they are doing use something more normal, which is usually 88db/1w/1m. 110-88=22db's. 3db's is a doubling of power so that's 130x the power needed on the mids than the horn. A horn with 2 watts of power will keep up with ANY car audio driver, they will actually be louder than any CA mid even with 260 watts due to power compression, even if the mid can take it. This makes gain setting very hard to do as you have to keep the horn gain all the way down and then bring the mids up to match them at less than 1 watt lol.. Most people don't do that so suddenly the horns sound harsh and nasty since they are WAYY louder than everything else. Once they go to fix it they run straight to the EQ instead of the gain knob and have to cut everything to make it sound good. Yeah, horns do have their problem areas, but so do regular tweets once you mount them in a car. Horns give you a controlled soundfield due the waveguide and unsurpassed effeciency, that's something a conventional tweet can't have even with a EQ.

Anyway the number one thing you need with horns, even more than an EQ is a set of mids that can make level matching easier, something that is over 92db1m/1m is a good start, the higher the better as long as it can play the frequency range you need, .

There are also a few tricks you can use on the horns themselves that the various companies make to improve their sound as well some are easy mods, some are harder

 

[BigSix 10+ year member]

I''ll have pics up in a few days once my install is done if that helps any. Anyway HLCD's (horn loaded compression drivers) really aren't that hard to get good sound out of. What usually ends up happening is that horns are ALOT more effecient than the midbass/midranges they are paired to. Horns can be as high as 110db/1w/1m of output. Most good midranges for something like this are 100db/1w/1m at best. Usually, people who dont' know what they are doing use something more normal, which is usually 88db/1w/1m. 110-88=22db's. 3db's is a doubling of power so that's 130x the power needed on the mids than the horn. A horn with 2 watts of power will keep up with ANY car audio driver, they will actually be louder than any CA mid even with 260 watts due to power compression, even if the mid can take it. This makes gain setting very hard to do as you have to keep the horn gain all the way down and then bring the mids up to match them at less than 1 watt lol.. Most people don't do that so suddenly the horns sound harsh and nasty since they are WAYY louder than everything else. Once they go to fix it they run straight to the EQ instead of the gain knob and have to cut everything to make it sound good. Yeah, horns do have their problem areas, but so do regular tweets once you mount them in a car. Horns give you a controlled soundfield due the waveguide and unsurpassed effeciency, that's something a conventional tweet can't have even with a EQ.
Anyway the number one thing you need with horns, even more than an EQ is a set of mids that can make level matching easier, something that is over 92db1m/1m is a good start, the higher the better as long as it can play the frequency range you need, .

There are also a few tricks you can use on the horns themselves that the various companies make to improve their sound as well some are easy mods, some are harder

thx for the input.....

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

I''ll have pics up in a few days once my install is done if that helps any. Anyway HLCD's (horn loaded compression drivers) really aren't that hard to get good sound out of. What usually ends up happening is that horns are ALOT more effecient than the midbass/midranges they are paired to. Horns can be as high as 110db/1w/1m of output. Most good midranges for something like this are 100db/1w/1m at best. Usually, people who dont' know what they are doing use something more normal, which is usually 88db/1w/1m. 110-88=22db's. 3db's is a doubling of power so that's 130x the power needed on the mids than the horn. A horn with 2 watts of power will keep up with ANY car audio driver, they will actually be louder than any CA mid even with 260 watts due to power compression, even if the mid can take it. This makes gain setting very hard to do as you have to keep the horn gain all the way down and then bring the mids up to match them at less than 1 watt lol.. Most people don't do that so suddenly the horns sound harsh and nasty since they are WAYY louder than everything else. Once they go to fix it they run straight to the EQ instead of the gain knob and have to cut everything to make it sound good. Yeah, horns do have their problem areas, but so do regular tweets once you mount them in a car. Horns give you a controlled soundfield due the waveguide and unsurpassed effeciency, that's something a conventional tweet can't have even with a EQ.
Anyway the number one thing you need with horns, even more than an EQ is a set of mids that can make level matching easier, something that is over 92db1m/1m is a good start, the higher the better as long as it can play the frequency range you need, .

There are also a few tricks you can use on the horns themselves that the various companies make to improve their sound as well some are easy mods, some are harder

What good 6.5"-9" mids have at least 92db 1w/1m efficiency? Seems like a mid that efficient would have a high fs and not give you good lower midbass output.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

I''ll have pics up in a few days once my install is done if that helps any. Anyway HLCD's (horn loaded compression drivers) really aren't that hard to get good sound out of. What usually ends up happening is that horns are ALOT more effecient than the midbass/midranges they are paired to. Horns can be as high as 110db/1w/1m of output. Most good midranges for something like this are 100db/1w/1m at best. Usually, people who dont' know what they are doing use something more normal, which is usually 88db/1w/1m. 110-88=22db's. 3db's is a doubling of power so that's 130x the power needed on the mids than the horn. A horn with 2 watts of power will keep up with ANY car audio driver, they will actually be louder than any CA mid even with 260 watts due to power compression, even if the mid can take it. This makes gain setting very hard to do as you have to keep the horn gain all the way down and then bring the mids up to match them at less than 1 watt lol.. Most people don't do that so suddenly the horns sound harsh and nasty since they are WAYY louder than everything else. Once they go to fix it they run straight to the EQ instead of the gain knob and have to cut everything to make it sound good. Yeah, horns do have their problem areas, but so do regular tweets once you mount them in a car. Horns give you a controlled soundfield due the waveguide and unsurpassed effeciency, that's something a conventional tweet can't have even with a EQ.
Anyway the number one thing you need with horns, even more than an EQ is a set of mids that can make level matching easier, something that is over 92db1m/1m is a good start, the higher the better as long as it can play the frequency range you need, .

There are also a few tricks you can use on the horns themselves that the various companies make to improve their sound as well some are easy mods, some are harder

What good 6.5"-9" mids have at least 92db 1w/1m efficiency? Seems like a mid that efficient would have a high fs and not give you good lower midbass output.