Lets see some HORN setups???

[Tone415 10+ year member]

thats just as dumb as putting 6x9's in the grill of your car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

What good 6.5"-9" mids have at least 92db 1w/1m efficiency? Seems like a mid that efficient would have a high fs and not give you good lower midbass output.

2 ways around this I can think of.

1. 3way

2. take a loss and have a higher HPF for your mids, which might or might not mess w/ the localization of your subbass.

or make an L-pad for the HLCD

 

[I Like Waffle]

This is in a friends car on the rear deck, the horns are getting about 40wrms each.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

2 ways around this I can think of.
1. 3way

2. take a loss and have a higher HPF for your mids, which might or might not mess w/ the localization of your subbass.

or make an L-pad for the HLCD

1. Kinda kills the point of running horns though, right?

2. Seems like that once again would kill the benefit of running a horn and large mid setup.

3. I figured the easiest thing to do is run a separate small 2 channel amp, something old school that does maybe 2x10 or something. Then maybe bridge a 4 channel for your mids? I have some Morel 267's that I'm trying to figure out something to do with, but I really do not want to run horns.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

do what you gotta do.

you don't necessarily have to try and cross horns as low as possible.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

wait wut

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

do what you gotta do.
you don't necessarily have to try and cross horns as low as possible.

So why'd you decide to use horns in a 3-way?

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

sorry sir,but you front stage is lacking mid-bass!!

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

heres mine...06 altima..only way to fit was to flip them over..

passenger side needs the carpet/pad cut to angle it better..

 

[Farmacist 10+ year member]

wait nvm I was going to post something but doesnt have horns

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

heres mine...06 altima..only way to fit was to flip them over..

passenger side needs the carpet/pad cut to angle it better..

my horns are the same way. flipped like that. to cover my midbass area i have dual x65 in each door only because i like it loud //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif. there's a few ppl who compete with the horns aubrey is one he has the 300 with the ultra horns and the x69 in each door. a single x65 will keep up with the horns also. as for eq and xover i started out with an Eclipse cd7100 and that was plenty of processing. the most important part of horn mounting is keeping them level and as far out as possible to the sides. for a "beginner" who doesn't want to spend alot of money for processing and is looking for a whole system front stage wise the ID Q450.4s processing in it is enough for a good stage teamed with the CD1eV3 and the CXS62v2 midbass. the power ratio is perfect and the xover in the amp is flexible enough to sound great. you can get all kinds of horn answers from the ID forum.

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

F diyma and joo, too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

i love you too james //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

What good 6.5"-9" mids have at least 92db 1w/1m efficiency? Seems like a mid that efficient would have a high fs and not give you good lower midbass output.

At least you stated "lower midbass" output instead of what most people say which is just midbass. Anyway most drivers down to 80hz are NOT displacement limited, especially not 8's. A 8 with 6mm of excursion is comparable to a 6.5 with 12 or so. So really, if you use a larger format driver like a 8 or 6x9 you dont' need that much xmax to get down to 80 with some authority. People who think their 6.5's are playing down to 40 are basically fooling themselves as the distortion when you push them that low tends to sound alot like "bass".

Anyway, most of the midbass frequencies are power limited, hence effeciency limited, certainly everthing above 80hz. It's not that the driver can't move that far mechanically, the problem is the power needed to get it there smokes it. Every time you go up 1 octave you need 1/4 the excursion to hold SPL. Anywya, most of what you hear is in this range (80hz and up) includes, 99.9% of a drum, lower guitar chords (most), most bass guitar chords even. Very little midbass is below this. IMO, the best way to go about it is to always cross the mids as high as you can without drawing the stage to the rear at low volumes. At high volumes rattles will ALWAYS give your sub away anyway, if anyone can even notice at that kind of output level anyway. A subwoofer has more powerhandling, excursion and somtimes effeciency than any midbass driver your going to fit in a car. Despite what many on here think, a decent sub will play 120hz alot better than your mids will. So once you stop looking for a 50db/12db/octave crossover point you'll find ALOT of mids will fit the bill. 80hz at a mid to steep slope of 60hz on a very steep slope is more reasonable and your system will sound alot cleaner. If it pulls to the back, unless your in a HUGE vehicle, (big van), the problem is either a. subwoofer distortion causing higher order harmonics that pull the stage back or b. panels rattling causing higher order distortion or c. phasing issues between the sub and midbass. B&C options are the most common offenders as to why your sub pulls rear. Both can be fixed with install and tuning.

Anyway if you take my recommendations on midbasses your quickly realize once you put power to them that I'm right. People that look for midbass in low effeciecny high excurison drivers are chasing their tails. Happens alot on diyma, they end up with polite, low output sound that lacks "midbass" despite having massive excursion. Then they go listen at a club have a drum punch them in the chest despite the driver only having 2mm of xmax, and STILL don't get it.........

Also a 3 way setup will also help fix this issue as well as 2.5way, which is what I may go to eventually. I wont' really even be doing it for a lower crossover point so much as for better power response in my car as midbass is very modal in a car.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

A 3-way also gives the benefit of allowing you to modify midbass polarity independent to midrange, which is surprisingly important.