Less than impressed with L7 and Hifonics Brutus Tuning

Interesting video on the capacitor. I always assumed it was just like having an extra little battery. I don't entirely understand his test though. Seems to me the results are as they should have been. The capacitor dumps more of a load quickly as designed. Its mAh is far lower than that of the car battery. I guess it bottle necking the voltage during a very large surge would be where it is potentially dangerous for an amplifier correct? But that would be something to be concerned about with a 250+ amp surge. Not something I'd be likely to see with a single 800 watt amplifier I imagine. Also, his 25 amp charger isn't exactly apples to apples with even a small 60 amp alternator. But I get the general idea in how they aren't all they seem and a battery would be a better option.
I believe the box dimensions were 15" tall X 31" wide X 20" deep.
yes for the price of a capacitor you can get a small battery. 5 farads does not store enough do anything. only ultra capacitors banks with more then a few hundred farads will have an effect. So in the future just stick with a small battery instead of a capacitor.

port length?

 
yes for the price of a capacitor you can get a small battery. 5 farads do nothing. only ultra capacitors banks with more then a few hundred farads will have an effect.
port length?
So would you suggest that I leave the capacitor or yank it out? I bought it probably 10 years ago when I barely knew anything about stereos. Had it in my old impala with my RFR3112s.

I believe port length was about 18". Could be 17" though. I can't remember exactly. I didn't write it all down. I remember specifically putting 35Hz into the calculator on the12volt, so whatever that would have told me is what I did for port length.

 
So would you suggest that I leave the capacitor or yank it out? I bought it probably 10 years ago when I barely knew anything about stereos. Had it in my old impala with my RFR3112s.
I believe port length was about 18". Could be 17" though. I can't remember exactly. I didn't write it all down. I remember specifically putting 35Hz into the calculator on the12volt, so whatever that would have told me is what I did for port length.
So your actual specs with all the info you've given me is:

3.25 net cubic feet tuned to 40.67hz with 14.54 port area per cubic feet.

Being tuned that high with that big of an enclosure causes a big peak, basically your box is close to a one note wonder box.

change your port length to 32 inches long, that will give you a 35.5hz tuning at 2.67 cubic feet with a port area per cubic feet at 17.68 which is a bit high but it should still be better then your current box.. Grab a piece of wood and add some length to the port.

 
So your actual specs with all the info you've given me is:3.25 net cubic feet tuned to 40.67hz with 14.54 port area per cubic feet.

Being tuned that high with that big of an enclosure causes a big peak, basically your box is close to a one note wonder box.

change your port length to 32 inches long, that will give you a 35.5hz tuning at 2.67 cubic feet with a port area per cubic feet at 17.68 which is a bit high but it should still be better then your current box.. Grab a piece of wood and add some length to the port.
I hope you don't mind, but I'd like to ask how you figured the net is a full 1ft^3 less than gross. Do you not include port in volume when calculating volume? Also, how do you calculate the port area? Total volume? Volume less port area?

I wish I had come on here before I put everything together. There is no way I'm getting that box apart to make any changes. I'll have to build a new one. So on that note, can you point me in the direction of doing it right this time?

 
I hope you don't mind, but I'd like to ask how you figured the net is a full 1ft^3 less than gross. Do you not include port in volume when calculating volume? Also, how do you calculate the port area? Total volume? Volume less port area?
I wish I had come on here before I put everything together. There is no way I'm getting that box apart to make any changes. I'll have to build a new one. So on that note, can you point me in the direction of doing it right this time?
sending you a pm

 
It's a square sub. Don't shrink the box. It's about as good as its going to get. Something else is wrong
What do you feel could be the problem? Truthfully, my only complaint with its performance is when I turn it down. If I turn the amp up, it sounds good. Not super tight, but hey its an L7.

 
This Is how I do quik setups for break-in period...or just to get in and out on a non-competition setup such as this

Disconnect the remote or turn off the sub control, whatever

Start with the treble or higher frequencies at about 3/4 and the bass flat or negative

Turn the volume up to the maximum level for listening...not as high as the headunit will go...but to the number you wish to be the highest and just so it still sounds good...use your ears

Bring the bass up one level at a time until it sounds "right"..again...you have to use your ears

Now lower the volume turn the subs back on with the bass boost and gains and sub control all the way down....now this part you have to really listen to the subs...set your Hz levels to match the sub...or type of music you generally listen to....no need for 20-40hz if you listen to Hatebreed..

Start with the bass boost...generally you want That at 3/4 as well ...Now bring the volume up to your level that you set the interiors to and bring up the gain until you can tell it seems like you're just not getting anymore out of the sub,.or it seems to clip...maybe thats at 1/4 or half or 3/4..depends on the amp...then bring it back a touch...DONE.

Having an internal sub control or sub level setting on the head unit helps a lot to adjust per song but without getting into using an o-scope or meters, that should get you a pretty descent sound out of your sound system....on a comp setup it gets a Lil more involved but for a simple system...a Lil bump in the trunk, you should be pretty good...I hope that helps even a Lil bit...good luck

Mike

TMR Customs

Watertown CT

 
And YES....turn off the loudness!! and set the levels using the type of music you prefer...don't really need a bass tone generator to setup an everyday listener....like putting in an engine management system and dyno testing your moms caravan ya know...keep it simple and you'll be much happier and pull out less hair.....and get her to replace them back speakers.another thing most amateur audiophiles forget is the amount of pressure the subs create in the vehicle especially in the trunk....try to get the rear speakers blocked off from the back side...the wooden boxes are great but even the plastic enclosures will help...much like you see in the doors...they make the speaker sound sooo much better and help with premature damage to the voice coils from fighting the pressure of the subs...again....your ear doesn't lie...if it sounds bad...turn it down...if it sounds good....crank that ****!!

 
This Is how I do quik setups for break-in period...or just to get in and out on a non-competition setup such as this
Disconnect the remote or turn off the sub control, whatever

Start with the treble or higher frequencies at about 3/4 and the bass flat or negative

Turn the volume up to the maximum level for listening...not as high as the headunit will go...but to the number you wish to be the highest and just so it still sounds good...use your ears

Bring the bass up one level at a time until it sounds "right"..again...you have to use your ears

Now lower the volume turn the subs back on with the bass boost and gains and sub control all the way down....now this part you have to really listen to the subs...set your Hz levels to match the sub...or type of music you generally listen to....no need for 20-40hz if you listen to Hatebreed..

Start with the bass boost...generally you want That at 3/4 as well ...Now bring the volume up to your level that you set the interiors to and bring up the gain until you can tell it seems like you're just not getting anymore out of the sub,.or it seems to clip...maybe thats at 1/4 or half or 3/4..depends on the amp...then bring it back a touch...DONE.

Having an internal sub control or sub level setting on the head unit helps a lot to adjust per song but without getting into using an o-scope or meters, that should get you a pretty descent sound out of your sound system....on a comp setup it gets a Lil more involved but for a simple system...a Lil bump in the trunk, you should be pretty good...I hope that helps even a Lil bit...good luck

Mike

TMR Customs

Watertown CT

Dafuq did you just say?

 
You guys are telling someone who started out saying he is new to this ****...doesn't have a ton of experience to break out Oscopes and talking about box Q and All kinds of technical ****....this is a really easy way to get your system to sound good without going crazy....what the hell does someone with a single sub, cheap amp, and blown rear speaker need to get Hz generators and Oscopes out for...fux all that...KISS...keep it simple stupid

 
You guys are telling someone who started out saying he is new to this ****...doesn't have a ton of experience to break out Oscopes and talking about box Q and All kinds of technical ****....this is a really easy way to get your system to sound good without going crazy....what the hell does someone with a single sub, cheap amp, and blown rear speaker need to get Hz generators and Oscopes out for...fux all that...KISS...keep it simple stupid
Go away.

 
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