Kicker Subs

What would you pick?


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if its 1 ohm stable i'd go with 3 subs and get it resting at 1.3.....you'd need 3 dual 2's....i did this with a SX 1250.1 on 3 DD 1012a's in a candy caddy...it was pretty sick...and never had amp probs at all......
so you think if i got subs that = out to 1 hm after imp rise it will be above 2?

 
When comparing 4 10L5's to 4 8L5's, that doesn't really matter. The simple fact that the quad of 10's will be more efficient means you will get more output with the same power... seems like a better option than running 3 10L5's at a higher impedance.

what do you mean by more efficient?

 
what do you mean by more efficient?
More cone area. Kicker lists a 1W (or maybe it's 2.83v) rating of 82.2 dB for the 8", and 86.3 dB for the 10". That's a 4 dB increase just by going to a 10" driver -- that is huge.
So if the the 10 is 4 dB louder than the 8 with both subs running off of 1W, it will also be 4 dB louder than the 8 with both subs running off of 375W. There is so much more to look at than what % of a subs RMS power handling is being used up by an amp.

There's nothing magical that happens when you reach 'full RMS', and it doesn't really even mean you've reached the full potential of the sub (depending on the size and tuning of the enclosure used).

 
More cone area. Kicker lists a 1W (or maybe it's 2.83v) rating of 82.2 dB for the 8", and 86.3 dB for the 10". That's a 4 dB increase just by going to a 10" driver -- that is huge.
So if the the 10 is 4 dB louder than the 8 with both subs running off of 1W, it will also be 4 dB louder than the 8 with both subs running off of 375W. There is so much more to look at than what % of a subs RMS power handling is being used up by an amp.

There's nothing magical that happens when you reach 'full RMS', and it doesn't really even mean you've reached the full potential of the sub (depending on the size and tuning of the enclosure used).
damn man well put!!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/handclap.gif.0c301076f534e244f0460706894f19e0.gif

 
More cone area. Kicker lists a 1W (or maybe it's 2.83v) rating of 82.2 dB for the 8", and 86.3 dB for the 10". That's a 4 dB increase just by going to a 10" driver -- that is huge.
So if the the 10 is 4 dB louder than the 8 with both subs running off of 1W, it will also be 4 dB louder than the 8 with both subs running off of 375W. There is so much more to look at than what % of a subs RMS power handling is being used up by an amp.

There's nothing magical that happens when you reach 'full RMS', and it doesn't really even mean you've reached the full potential of the sub (depending on the size and tuning of the enclosure used).
theory doesn't always work in car audio....i use to go by that also.....

 
theory doesn't always work in car audio....i use to go by that also.....
I'm not suggesting anyone compare sensitivity or efficiency ratings between different brands or even different models of subs... but in the case of L5 vs. L5, it's pretty safe to assume that the difference will be somewhat consistent.
And I realize that there is a lot that can happen between 1W and 375W, and that there's no guarantee that the difference at 375W will be exactly 4.1 dB -- but it does give an indication as to which setup will have more output. But if anything, I would expect to see a larger spread between the two with more power... based on theory and on real world experience.

 
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