Kicker L7 12" Help Plz

[D10222]

SO i'm hella new around this forum and to car audio period,(call me a newb) but i needed some help and i was recommended to come here. alrighty here goes, so i have the "beloved" brand of kicker in my trunk and i have just been having some bad luck with this speaker. i have a kicker solo baric 12" wired at 2ohm to go along with a kicker zx750.1 amp. i thought that this was the perfect combo when buying this awhile back, but soon realized it was a mistake. i had it professionally installed and everything; long story short the amp goes into protection mode after like 15 mins of play and i'm not playing my music loud at all. i have tried almost everything, i took it back to get it rewired at 4ohm an they turned down the gain and it still acts up. i was recommended to get a better amp, i'm on a budget and frankly tired of spending money and not getting results. i wanna know if a ap15001d would be to much to the kicker speaker or should i go for the ap1001d or anything else thats a good budget amp? thanks (remember im new at this stuff lol, niceness is appreciated).

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[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Somethings not right, that is a good combo. Wire it to 2ohms and set the gain right with a DMM, or get lucky and get the amp scoped. No bass boost and HU bass set to 0

 

[Vossy 10+ year member]

There's no reason that amp should be turning off, that IS a working combination.

Something is messed up. Does it get hot and turn off or just turn off?

 

[D10222]

Yea, I thought it was a got combo too. When I took it to get checked out all the guy could tell me was that kicker makes garbage amps. Then he turns around and tries to sell me an amp from out his store. But i'll try what you said, I'm not that skilled at doing instillation and trouble shooting myself but I'm gonna get some help. I knida just wanna do away with the amp and get a new one cause its so frustrating not being able to enjoy my music, especially when I hadn't had this problem for over a year almost two lol

 

[D10222]

@vossy, yea it gets hot as hell. It's on protection mode more than it is playing

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Check your settings, and check your ground. Do you have 4awg cable? Kicker amps are OK, they make good power for what they are

 

[D10222]

From what they told me, they said the wiring was correct. because I had asked them (the installers) to check all the wiring cause I have warranty with them. And from what I see I have a good ground, it's connected to the chassis and it's looks like a clean area. Before I go on. I also have another amp powering my component pioneer speakers. could that effect it in any way. when I got the system I made sure to get a red top batt. To support my system. and they tested my alt was running strong.

 

[05trailblazer 10+ year member]

ots not the amp is the way they "profesionally hooked it up"

SO i'm hella new around this forum and to car audio period,(call me a newb) but i needed some help and i was recommended to come here. alrighty here goes, so i have the "beloved" brand of kicker in my trunk and i have just been having some bad luck with this speaker. i have a kicker solo baric 12" wired at 2ohm to go along with a kicker zx750.1 amp. i thought that this was the perfect combo when buying this awhile back, but soon realized it was a mistake. i had it professionally installed and everything; long story short the amp goes into protection mode after like 15 mins of play and i'm not playing my music loud at all. i have tried almost everything, i took it back to get it rewired at 4ohm an they turned down the gain and it still acts up. i was recommended to get a better amp, i'm on a budget and frankly tired of spending money and not getting results. i wanna know if a ap15001d would be to much to the kicker speaker or should i go for the ap1001d or anything else thats a good budget amp? thanks (remember im new at this stuff lol, niceness is appreciated).

 

[05trailblazer 10+ year member]

by the way if you have a friend that has a system in his car try you amp with his car and see what it does. if it sill consist of the same problem then its just a faulty amp

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

Anyone else picked up how he went from a 2ohm load to a 4ohm load with the same gear?

It's in the wiring op, they are good amps, overpriced but good. Dial everything back a notch and set it correctly

 

[05trailblazer 10+ year member]

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Anyone else picked up how he went from a 2ohm load to a 4ohm load with the same gear?
It's in the wiring op, they are good amps, overpriced but good. Dial everything back a notch and set it correctly

 

[D10222]

Ok, thanks for the help you guys, im gonna try and trouble shoot this the best to my abilities

 

[skylineTT 10+ year member]

yeah brah, lol that sub cant go from 2 to 4. its either 2 or 8. look at your knobs on the amp. turn the bass boost to 0, frequency all the way down (for now) and turn the gain all the way down to 0. turn the music up as loud as you will listen to it with your bass setting on the head unit at 0. now go to your gain knob and turn it up until the sub starts to distort or until the excursion is maxed out, then back off on the knob. you DONT want distortion. Give us the specs of your sub box and we can help you with the frequency knob..

also, your alt might not be doing too well and your sub amp could be starving for some current and you'll need to do the big 3 or add a batt. what car do you have?

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

lol, so the guy sold you a kicker amp, installed it, then told you it was a junk brand and tried to sell you some more junk...... no, that amp is just about the same amp as all the other normally decent amps out there, not cheap, not junk, but not high end sq/powerhouses that cost 5x as much. it's not because the amp is junk, the amp is actualy trying to tell you something. here is what you do- get a digital multi-meter. start with your battery voltage (dc) as a reference. now, go measure the voltage at the amp. it should be pretty much the same. now turn the amp on and measure both again. should be pretty close, possibly .2v off typically, but not more. if not, you have a problem. leave the negative terminal of the dmm on the grond at the amp, and check the voltage of the remote wire and the power wire alternately. if they are not the same, then you have a connection problem with the lower reading one. if they are the same, butlow, you have a bad ground somewhere. also, set your dmm to ohms (if it has range, set to the lowest, loke "0-200" or something like that) and touch the probes together, what it reads, (probably .02-.4 from what i've seen) and you will need to subtract that from any reading you get on ohms. now, unhook the speaker wires from the amp, or the back of the box, and see what they read. should say about 2, or 8 ohms, +/- >1ohm... if you get a weird reading, then you may have a bad coil, and need to pull the speaker and check each coil. if it reads 4ohms, then you have a bad coil, or tinsel lead on the sub, or they left one disconnected (both of which has the small possibility of shorting the speaker wires) if they wired it wrong, then i would go back, yell at them, adn demand a refund for the "work" they just did.... only running 1 coil will damage a speaker, and they did not actually troubleshoot the problem, or they would have a better answer than "kicker *****"