Kangaroux's 99 Pathfinder

I could imagine, I don't think the Jimmy would make it up with out something going wrong haha. That is why it stays on paved roads..well in OKC they might as well be dirt/gravel roads here ****.

 
I could imagine, I don't think the Jimmy would make it up with out something going wrong haha. That is why it stays on paved roads..well in OKC they might as well be dirt/gravel roads here ****.
Yeah I made sure to get a vehicle I know has a solid 4x4 cause the dirt roads up here are just as bad as half of the paved roads.

 
I'll get a shot of the headunit today and I'll try and remember to do it at night, though I think the volt meter is too bright for it to really show up well haha. My camera doesn't like bright lights

 
Also how are you running the voltage wires?

I just bought a cheap ebay gauge (wish I had spent more and gotten the 3 wire Stinger) but I was going to hook it up behind the dash like I think you have done but that voltage can differ from the voltage the amp is getting.

So for me I am going to ground the voltmeter behind the dash and run a wire to the rear of the car.

Back there I am running a relay to turn on both of my amps (triggered from the remote wire, feed power from the rear Dist block) and I am going to connect the power wire to the voltmeter to the relay output (the same wire that turns on both of my amps)

That should give a better reading of what voltage the amp is getting.

edit** that sounds harder than it really is.

 
Also how are you running the voltage wires?I just bought a cheap ebay gauge (wish I had spent more and gotten the 3 wire Stinger) but I was going to hook it up behind the dash like I think you have done but that voltage can differ from the voltage the amp is getting.

So for me I am going to ground the voltmeter behind the dash and run a wire to the rear of the car.

Back there I am running a relay to turn on both of my amps (triggered from the remote wire, feed power from the rear Dist block) and I am going to connect the power wire to the voltmeter to the relay output (the same wire that turns on both of my amps)

That should give a better reading of what voltage the amp is getting.

edit** that sounds harder than it really is.
I was going to run a wire all the way up front/back to get the voltage but what I did was just tap into the headunit's turn on wire (the red wire). It is activated by a relay when only the car is on and has the same voltage as whatever the alt is charging at, it's not some weak 2v signal.

 
Quit talking and get busy!!! Need pics of those midbass installed, amongst other things! How'd they turn out, etc, etc. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blackeye.gif.66a1670f5aaf7f406e783a63e3387dc5.gif
Need to wait for my paypal to resolve so I can order a wire kit to get my rubicon hooked up. These lanzars have less midbass than I thought they would but granted they are rated for 100w+ and they are getting like 10w right now, plus my door isn't sealed up in the slightest.

 
Need to wait for my paypal to resolve so I can order a wire kit to get my rubicon hooked up. These lanzars have less midbass than I thought they would but granted they are rated for 100w+ and they are getting like 10w right now, plus my door isn't sealed up in the slightest.
Ahh well I never think about wiring since I keep uptons of it at all times JIC.... Sure they'll wang chung on some decent power thou!

 
Ahh well I never think about wiring since I keep uptons of it at all times JIC.... Sure they'll wang chung on some decent power thou!
Yeah I hope. They are definitely beefy and they cost like 35 bucks a pop over on PE. I need to get some thing sheets of metal so I can seal up the huge holes in my door panel but before I do that I need some deadener.

 
Got the big 3 done today, but before I start here are pics of the headunit installed for those that are interested:

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Voltage should be higher but I think my battery is slowly dying. It sits around 12.5 at the moment

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Pretty much what my front seat looks like when I'm doing any kind of work on my car

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The same thing goes for under the hood, lol

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Well, the spot where I had originally wanted to ground is out of the question. As I was securing the wire the screw snapped straight in half. Luckily that brace isn't for anything important

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Instead, I just used a ground that was already being used.

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Ground attached to the engine block

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And the alt positive

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Almost there...

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Had to strip down the wiring coming from the fuse box. The insulator on the wire isn't even rubber, it's hard plastic. Biggest PITA to cut ever //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

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Because I don't have any hydraulic crimpers or bolt cutters to crimp the terminal, I had to go down in my basement and bring the table vice out. Don't worry, it's OK to do this. I'm from Maine.

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Heard a weird noise while I was working only to look over and see that my cat had taken a **** all over my front tire. Cool.

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Crimped and secured tightly with several passes of electrical tape. I gave this a good tug and it's not going anywhere.

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Got it all hooked up only to find the car didn't start. After some quick testing with a DMM the problem came down to the terminals having been painted. Paint had gotten inside the threading where the bolt goes so I wasn't getting any contact there, so I just sanded off the top where the wires touch it.

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Now we're good. I ended up accidentally dropping the nut and bolt for the negative terminal so I'm going to have to find that. Until then this will have to suffice.

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