just got my AA Atlas 15 in the mail, need a bit of help with issue. (Pics)

fbi90909
5,000+ posts

Panty Thief
hello everyone. i just received a used AA Atlas in the mail and well i found it has a crack through 1 of the spokes of the basket. i began playing around with the sub and am contemplating about applying 2 part high strength epoxy to the crack then use a clamp to fix the spoke into position. would that would fine?

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it is the only crack on the basket and nothing else is wrong with the sub other than an area near one of the mounting screws where the surround is coming un-glued. which is an easy fix.

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so do you guys think it would be fine to just glue the crack solid?

second, would you guys think this would be fine in a 4cu tuned to 30hz box?

and how much power have people been known to run these? iirc the rating was at 300. are they able to take a bit more?

going to take my 15 sx and place this as my new HT sub. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
lol i ment to mention that i will be taking OUT the SX and putting in the Atlas. since the SX was only seeing about 200W, but the SX still got loud and low as hell even at low power. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

thanks for the input.

 
Yep, HT should be tuned lower than car audio. Home audio does not have the low-end transfer funtion that we enjoy in our mobile hobby.

Id be very concerned that a JB Weld type of fix would not hold. That frame will experience alot of stress and vibration. It might work, just dont mount it on the side where frame stress would be at its greatest.

 
did you buy the sub damaged like that? if not id be pissed and would ask for 150 bucks for a recone //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Epoxy would bond the two pieces together, but it really should be welded. Epoxy isn't going to be as strong as a weld and it isn't going to last a long either.

 
the sub was not cracked. it got cracked as the sub shifted in the box it was sent in. as for positioning the sub when mounted of course i would set up so that 1 spoke is south/downwards so there won't be any stress pull on it.

i already tested it free air with about 200W. there is no scratching nor any mech noise, there isn't even tinsel slap markings on the pads. as for the glue on the surround that's just AA's rubbery glue that i'm not happy with.

a drop in recone + new basket is pretty much double the cost of how much the sub cost so. :/

i'm not pissed or was flipping out at all. the sub didn't turn into a major disaster and the package was insured for extra measures, even before it was mailed i have pics of how it was packaged and "I" approved. just a little disappointed as to how bad mail carriers don't care about their jobs.

yes i am well aware of the "how to ships motors/ subs" thread and i even linked him prior to packaging to get some ideas.

overall with a minor fix it will be fine.

oh and the surround coming un glued was no from the shipping and isn't even on the side of the crack. it seems that the screws used had twisted/pulled the surround off.

 
If it's cast metal you'd need to have it brazed, but would risk messing up the sub with the heat involved.

I'd think JBweld to hold the joint together then more applied around the cracked area. Build up a nice thick layer. I've drilled/tapped the stuff before, so it's pretty much like steel when cured. As mentioned just make sure the basket is CLEAN before you apply it...

 
i wouldnt use jb weld or epoxy. find someone in your area that knows how to silver solder and do it that way. but you have to be very careful not to burn the speaker up.

 
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