JL single subwoofer system???

[sbc2night]

I am pretty new to car audio. I want to setup in my 1996 Honda Accord LX with a single subwoofer. I am thinking about using JLs but I am not sure which one to use W3 or W6. I am going to run it in an enclosed box. What amp would be the best for a W3 or W6? How should I start and where. I also want to change my 6x9s rear speakers. What type of rear speakers should I use? 2 or 3 way.

Any basic information would help....thanks

Click to read more...

 

[sbc2night]

I don't need BOOOOOOM. I just need the BOOOM. I don't what to add a lot weight to my car. I prefer to pass cars then drown them out. I love a good bass don't get me wrong but I just want something clear and crisp but not to load. I found this below from the JL website. JL Stealthboxs are they any good? They are 12w6... i don't know...

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stealthbox subwoofer systems represent an entirely new level of automotive subwoofer engineering.

Handcrafted from fiberglass, Stealthbox systems are unequalled in terms of construction quality and enclosure rigidity. The precision molding process allows each model to fit the exact contours of its specific vehicle, resulting in a totally integrated subwoofer system that looks like it came from the factory, doesn't interfere with comfort or utility and stays out of sight.

Whether you drive an Accord Sedan or a Coupe, this powerful Stealthbox will add a healthy dose of clean, powerful low-frequency reproduction to your music. A slot-loaded, 300 watt, 10-inch sub is optimized to the Accord' s acoustics and impervious to damage from loose cargo in the trunk.

The Hard Data:

Contains one 10W6 in a slot-loaded, sealed enclosure. 300 Watt power handling. Wired for 3 ohm mono. Installs in driver side rear corner of trunk. Minimal loss of trunk space.

Model Name: SB-H-ACCORD/10W6

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

w 3 or 6 is good forget about rear speakers and just load up the front with a sweet component system with 2 amps or a good 3 way amp

 

[RFFreak4Life 10+ year member]

you could go all the way? But why? ALrigth JL's Are good, get one 10 that's enough Boom, then change out the front speakers to a nice Pioneer TS-C1653 Then for the back switch em to Pioneer TS-A6995 4-way Speakers that handle 2-80 RMS, 300 Max Watts they'll set you back about $150, but trust me its worth it.

Specs and Features of Pioneer TS-A6995 6x9's

Sensitivity 93 dB

Frequency Response 25 - 32k Hz

RMS Power Range (Watts) 2-80

Peak Power Handling (Watts) 300

Design 4-way

Tweeter Design (1) Dome, (2) Cone

Tweeter Composition (1) Ceramic, (2) Poly

Woofer Composition IMPP Rigilite

Woofer Surround Butyl Rubber

Impedance (Ohms) 4

Top-mount Depth (Inches) 3 1/2

Bottom-mount Depth (Inches) 3 7/8

Specs and Features of 6-1/2" Component Speaker System Pioneer

Sensitivity 90 dB

Frequency Response 30 - 32k Hz

RMS Power Range (Watts) 2-40

Peak Power Handling (Watts) 120

Design 2-way

Tweeter Design Dome

Tweeter Composition Cloth

Woofer Composition IMPP Rigilite

Woofer Surround Butyl Rubber

Impedance (Ohms) 4

Top-mount Depth (Inches) 2 7/16

Bottom-mount Depth (Inches) N/A

Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 5

Just a bit of a Pioneer Fan, they sound good and are priced really well as well. Hope I helped, See ya, Brian

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

oval speakers?!!??? gag

 

[mr.cableboi 10+ year member]

lol plz dont get audiolife started