anyb0dyk1lla
CarAudio.com Newbie
I'm finishing up my sound system on my 2018 Honda accord with "premium audio" which means I have to get my signal after the factory amplifier already butchers it. If you are not familiar with the accord "premium system" it has 10 channels of output from the factory amp, Although I believe the front and rears are split with a passive crossover in the factory wiring or something of that sort. I had an Lc2i and Lc7i previously to integrate but decided to try the fix 86 to see if it could accomplish what it is advertised to do. I was in the process of figuring out how/what inputs I'm going to hook up to the fix. At first I had the Front mids on the 1/2 block, the front highs(tweeter) on the 3/4 block, rear mids on 5/6 block and sub on 7/8 block.
For some reason no matter which combo of inputs I had on the 1-4 connectors the fix registered 1 mid and 1 high paired up, instead of 2 mids and 2 highs separated. This was annoying the crap out of me. I should have just left it and worked with it from there but nope, I had to keep messing with it. So then I got the bright idea to combine the tweeters and mids into 4 channels instead of 8 and only use the 1 connector. The calibrations was a little different but when I seen the response from the fix I have a full range singal. which it turned into an almost perfectly flat signal for my amplifier. But once I listened to some music it sounded like the damn Fourth of July for a second.
Past a certain volume when the bass would hit in a song my front components pop and crackle pretty loud. I was thinking somehow my connectors at the speakers or somewhere along the input signal path got loose or something like that. Until I read a forum saying that if you combine the tweeter and mid signal from the factory amp you would short the stock amplifier out.
Which is the reason for this post.... Did I short the factory amp and potentially kill it? or is something else possibly going on? and if I did short the amp is it fixable, or is it more like a new factory amplifier? I'm looking for any insight/explanation/advice on the matter because
For some reason no matter which combo of inputs I had on the 1-4 connectors the fix registered 1 mid and 1 high paired up, instead of 2 mids and 2 highs separated. This was annoying the crap out of me. I should have just left it and worked with it from there but nope, I had to keep messing with it. So then I got the bright idea to combine the tweeters and mids into 4 channels instead of 8 and only use the 1 connector. The calibrations was a little different but when I seen the response from the fix I have a full range singal. which it turned into an almost perfectly flat signal for my amplifier. But once I listened to some music it sounded like the damn Fourth of July for a second.
Past a certain volume when the bass would hit in a song my front components pop and crackle pretty loud. I was thinking somehow my connectors at the speakers or somewhere along the input signal path got loose or something like that. Until I read a forum saying that if you combine the tweeter and mid signal from the factory amp you would short the stock amplifier out.
Which is the reason for this post.... Did I short the factory amp and potentially kill it? or is something else possibly going on? and if I did short the amp is it fixable, or is it more like a new factory amplifier? I'm looking for any insight/explanation/advice on the matter because
