JL 500/1 good amp? efficiency?

that amp doesnt even do 1ohm. soid have to give it a 4ohm load which would give me 340 rms but that is at 14.4. my electrical ***** so i would get much less than that.

the 500/1 is godly though, t he bass boost equalizer is awesome. i usually dont like bass boost because i think it boosts the wrong sounds but with this i can set the boosted freq. and the bandwidth(q). def think this amp was well worth the money.

 
that amp doesnt even do 1ohm. soid have to give it a 4ohm load which would give me 340 rms but that is at 14.4. my electrical ***** so i would get much less than that.
the 500/1 is godly though, t he bass boost equalizer is awesome. i usually dont like bass boost because i think it boosts the wrong sounds but with this i can set the boosted freq. and the bandwidth(q). def think this amp was well worth the money.
How do you figure you are getting less power at 4 ohms? I used a JL Audio 500/1 for a few months, and it was rated to provide 500 watts RMS from 1.5 to 4 ohms. Now, at 8 ohms you could expect to see less power, but from 1.5 to 4 ohms, you should be golden.

Here is a link to an old review: JL Audio 500/1

 
How do you figure you are getting less power at 4 ohms? I used a JL Audio 500/1 for a few months, and it was rated to provide 500 watts RMS from 1.5 to 4 ohms. Now, at 8 ohms you could expect to see less power, but from 1.5 to 4 ohms, you should be golden.
Here is a link to an old review: JL Audio 500/1
I was actually talking about the jl audio t2-500.1 that pawn man recommended. i already read that review prior to buying and im very happy with the amp.

 
What is your main concern with the efficiency of the amp. Are you concerned with the current draw of the amplifier? What type of car due you have? Most amplifiers have a Unregulated power supply. They work great for power if you can keep your voltage at 14.4 range(which is difficult in most cars while slamming your system). The downfall of the unregulated power supply is that as your voltage drops, so does your power output. An example would be if your amp puts out 800watts @ 4ohms @14.4v it might only put out 535watts @ 4 ohm @ 12.9v. The JL will not do that because they use a regulated power supply. With a regulated power supply you need a good current flow more than a high voltage to make it perfom good. Also if you have a cap, you won't need it anymore with the JL. As long as you have a good ground and a good run of real copper 4-gauge(not CCA wire(40% efficiency of real copper)) you should be golden. I have put in hundreds of the JL500/1 amplifiers and never had a voltage/current issue from a vehicle unless the vehicle had a problem before the amp was installed. They are VERY reliable and clean. The have great control of the woofer even while being driven hard. Yes you can buy a amplifier like the clarion that you listed above for about the same price, but it will be hard to get it to sound as good. Im sure i'll get roasted for supporting a "non underground" amp company, but I have customers that have moved the slash series amps from car to car to car and the love them. If you do purchase the JL make sure the seriel number sticker is still on the amp(located on the bottom),that will ensure that if it is still under warranty and something should happen to the amp JL will fix it for you without a hassle. Hope this helps.
praise the lord.... I have my 500/1 19 years now bro and push her everyday money well spent. And yeah it's an angry lil amp I run extra alternator gel cell battery and a 5f cap plenty of power 0gauge on 100amp fuse in my suburban with two jl w612w6v2.... Jl 4 life.
 
praise the lord.... I have my 500/1 19 years now bro and push her everyday money well spent. And yeah it's an angry lil amp I run extra alternator gel cell battery and a 5f cap plenty of power 0gauge on 100amp fuse in my suburban with two jl w612w6v2.... Jl 4 life.
This thread is 12 years old....


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