JL 500.1 anyone ever had one bench tested?

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

thats bull shit. that amp wont produce nearly that power at 1 ohm. if you bench one you will find that it will produce more power at 4 ohms than it will at 2 or 1.5. they will back off on power output to avoid overheating so they can operate at lower ohms without shutting off.
and by the way, i was running two of them and i felt they were a little weak. nowhere near the output i am getting with a zapco 1100.1 dc.

mine and my customers, never had problems with heat, or lack of power. even at lower ohms,

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

wow...so nobody really seems to be answering the original question...hmm

they have been tested man, but by nobody from what i know on this forum. maby ill take some time, get my test equpiment back, and test it myself.

 

[Abneriel 10+ year member]

they have been tested man, but by nobody from what i know on this forum. maby ill take some time, get my test equpiment back, and test it myself.

oh...sorry if I came off rude, it's past 2 AM and I wasn't thinking when typing

thanks for the help!

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

mine and my customers, never had problems with heat, or lack of power. even at lower ohms,

if you arent making heat then you arent running them hard enough. these amps were behind the rear seat of my truck. yea, probably not the best enviroment, but other amps handle the heat better. i never said they lack power, but they do drop off in output.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

if you arent making heat then you arent running them hard enough.

That's a pretty dumb way of looking at things. Sounds to me like you chose the wrong amp for the job and rather than man up to your mistake you just figure that you'll blame the equipment for your problems and go tell it on the mountain that since you effed up it must be that the amps must be crappy.

Fact is that is any amp is overheating, then you are overdriving it. That's your problem not the problem of the amp. Period. /discussion.

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

That's a pretty dumb way of looking at things. Sounds to me like you chose the wrong amp for the job and rather than man up to your mistake you just figure that you'll blame the equipment for your problems and go tell it on the mountain that since you effed up it must be that the amps must be crappy.
Fact is that is any amp is overheating, then you are overdriving it. That's your problem not the problem of the amp. Period. /discussion.

i chose the wrong amp for the job? sorry i chose an amp to power a subwoofer. amps create heat, you will never get away with it. obviously your comprehension sucks because you will understand that to prevent the amp from overheating, it reduces power. re-read and then come back with something other than your dumb *** comments. its funny how somehow i cant get that amp to operate well, but a much more complicated amp such as a zapco dc is just fine and my truck sounds out of this world. hmmm, thats strange.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

i chose the wrong amp for the job? sorry i chose an amp to power a subwoofer. amps create heat, you will never get away with it. obviously your comprehension sucks because you will understand that to prevent the amp from overheating, it reduces power. re-read and then come back with something other than your dumb *** comments. its funny how somehow i cant get that amp to operate well, but a much more complicated amp such as a zapco dc is just fine and my truck sounds out of this world. hmmm, thats strange.

Comprehension>you

By your logic then any amp should be able to drive any sub to any volume level and I shouldn't need to take anything else into consideration. I shouldn't have to match power output capability to desired SPL. Based on your logic, I should be able to drive my subs acceptably off HU power and if the HU doesn't cut it for whatever reason then it is the fault of the HU, not my choice in expecting it to do something of which it isn't capable.

You obviously chose the wrong amp for the job you wanted done. If you had chosen the correct amp you wold have gotten the power/volume you wanted without having to drive the amp too hard. You expected too much from a 500W amp and your misuse of the amp caused it to overheat. You needed a bigger amp, that doesn't make the amp you were using bad just wrong for your application. If that is too much for you to understand then you have no business offering anyone any advice on this board because you don't understand the most basic concept of system design.

Your case against the JL amps is basically the same as if you were to blow a sub because you ran way more than the rated power to it and then blaming the sub because it blew. You chose the wrong component for what you wanted and because it did exactly what it was expected to do based on your misuse, it is at fault.

Plenty of others use JL amps and I haven't any of them crying about them the way you do. Pretty much rules out the amp as the problem. That leaves the user or the install...face it, you made a mistake, but as is way too typical of way too many people around you can't be wrong, it has to be someone else's fault.

 

[kngadrok 10+ year member]

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its funny how somehow i cant get that amp to operate well, but a much more complicated amp such as a zapco dc is just fine and my truck sounds out of this world. hmmm, thats strange.

I have noticed that you seem to have a slight bias toward JL ( in some of your past posts) is that maybe the case here as well. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/imo.gif.3a57bcc70a4835dc53e86ffae1a0b041.gif

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

So I guess the answer is no...except for the link provided.
Can I go somewhere to get mine bench-tested? I just want to know exactly how much power I'm dealing with (whether 500 or 650) when I choose another sub to go along with it.

Dude - the Carsound write-up is as thorough and precise as you're going to get -- anywhere. To disregard that in favor of some random tech doesn't make any sense. Every benchtest I've seen consist of power at minimum stable impedance, THD (if you're lucky), and voltage supplied (if you're luckier), not sure I've ever seen one that mentioned what tone was used.

According to Carsound - their reactive power tests simulate speakers better than the resistive numbers. So - at 4 ohms, 60 hz, 1% thd you're looking at ~600, 2 ohms ~700.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

lol those amps have been out since what 2001 or 02? i wouldnt use one for db drag but for everyday use or sq they are a real solid product especially since they fixxed the initial problems with the first batch

 

[jklfd 10+ year member]

lol those amps have been out since what 2001 or 02? i wouldnt use one for db drag but for everyday use or sq they are a real solid product especially since they fixxed the initial problems with the first batch

what was there problem on their first batch?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

when they got cold i do believe they didnt want to work again iirc. like winter time

 

[Abneriel 10+ year member]

Dude - the Carsound write-up is as thorough and precise as you're going to get -- anywhere. To disregard that in favor of some random tech doesn't make any sense. Every benchtest I've seen consist of power at minimum stable impedance, THD (if you're lucky), and voltage supplied (if you're luckier), not sure I've ever seen one that mentioned what tone was used.
According to Carsound - their reactive power tests simulate speakers better than the resistive numbers. So - at 4 ohms, 60 hz, 1% thd you're looking at ~600, 2 ohms ~700.

sounds good to me...thanks for clarifiying this for the n00b (me)

 

[jklfd 10+ year member]

How do you know what batch the amp is from? IE) Serial codes that start with a particular number or sth.

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

but a much more complicated amp such as a zapco dc is just fine .

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