JL 12w6v2, 500/1, now I need install help

Dem1k
10+ year member

Junior Member
Whassup guys...

So let me give you a little background. I have an '01 Acura CL Type-S. It comes stock w/ a 6-disc indash, 6 speakers (2 tweets), and an amp. Now here's the deal. If possible, I would like to just keep my stock headunit and not get an aftermarket one. I enjoy the 6-disc, and I prefer the stock look. Now the thing is, I haven't been following car audio for a LONG time, so I pretty much don't know shit. As mentioned in the title, I have purchased a JL 12w6v2 and a JL 500/1 amp. Now here comes my problems:

1) I have the major components, but I know I need wires and all that. What kind of amp kit should I get? Streetwires, Stinger, JL, Phoenix Gold, Monster, etc etc. And shoudl I get a 4ga or 8ga? I've been told the 500/1 only needs an 8ga. What should I look for in these kits? I've heard that the amp fuse should be like 120 or so?

2) As far as RCA's, what kind do I get? How long do they have to be? How many pairs do I need? For example, Stinger has the Expert Series, Hyper Series, Dream Series, Bullet Series, etc etc...Some are 2 channel, some are 4. I have no idea which ones to get. Lead me the right way, and I shall follow.

3) I need to get a custom enclosure built for this sub (or so I'm told), to spec. I looked up the specs on JL's site, and it says for a sealed enclosure it should be:

1.25ft^3 -- 18w x 14h x 12.75d. So, this brings me to a few questions.

a) How much should a sealed box enclosure built to spec cost?

b) How much should this installation cost, for an amp & sub?

c) Do any of you have any recommendations for shops that are in the Greater Los Angeles area that can do this work for me?

4) Also, I don't know if I mentioned this before, but I know that JL has a bass knob that is compatible with the 500.1. Do you guys suggest I get this as well?

That should be about it. Any and ALL help will be greatly appreciated. I would like to have this shit installed by this week.

`John

 
1)All of the amp kits you listed are good, however I would suggest a knukonceptz kit instead. http://www.knukonceptz.com/. You need 4 gauge. I am not sure what they mean by an amp fuse having to be 120 amps. I think whoever is helping you smoked a GIANT bowl of crack before he/she talked to you. An 80 AMP fuse 12" or closer to the positive battery terminal will suffice.

2)Get whatever brand of RCA's you want...they are all basically the same unless you want to spend a grip on some wires. As far as length invest a couple of bucks into a tape measure and you can find out without anybody's help //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

3)A sealed box does not cost much at all to make, however, if you go and ask a shop they will screw you where the sun don't shine until you are raw. Same goes for the amp/sub install. You are better off buying a pre-fab that meets your needs or making friends with someone who will build you a box and wire your sh!t....**** I WISH I OWNED AN AUDIO SHOP....SO MANY PEOPLE TO MAKE SO MUCH MONEY OFF OF //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif

 
as far as the stereo goes... i'd get the JL clean sweep and you can get amazing sound with your stock headunit while getting everything you'd get in an aftermarket one.

wiring? i went with the JL kit for my amp and Stinger HPM for my speakers, however i'd go with the PRO because i think its better... the hpms' aren't even copper and they cost more.

Go with 4 gauge

theres a guy on here that makes RCA's i'd contact him (dont know who the hell he is so dont ask me where to find him) i spent 70 on some monster cables that were 18 feet... ill be suprised if they sound too much better then the shitty pair that came with the component

 
Whassup guys...
So let me give you a little background. I have an '01 Acura CL Type-S. It comes stock w/ a 6-disc indash, 6 speakers (2 tweets), and an amp. Now here's the deal. If possible, I would like to just keep my stock headunit and not get an aftermarket one. I enjoy the 6-disc, and I prefer the stock look. Now the thing is, I haven't been following car audio for a LONG time, so I pretty much don't know shit. As mentioned in the title, I have purchased a JL 12w6v2 and a JL 500/1 amp. Now here comes my problems:

1) I have the major components, but I know I need wires and all that. What kind of amp kit should I get? Streetwires, Stinger, JL, Phoenix Gold, Monster, etc etc. And shoudl I get a 4ga or 8ga? I've been told the 500/1 only needs an 8ga. What should I look for in these kits? I've heard that the amp fuse should be like 120 or so?

2) As far as RCA's, what kind do I get? How long do they have to be? How many pairs do I need? For example, Stinger has the Expert Series, Hyper Series, Dream Series, Bullet Series, etc etc...Some are 2 channel, some are 4. I have no idea which ones to get. Lead me the right way, and I shall follow.

3) I need to get a custom enclosure built for this sub (or so I'm told), to spec. I looked up the specs on JL's site, and it says for a sealed enclosure it should be:

1.25ft^3 -- 18w x 14h x 12.75d. So, this brings me to a few questions.

a) How much should a sealed box enclosure built to spec cost?

b) How much should this installation cost, for an amp & sub?

c) Do any of you have any recommendations for shops that are in the Greater Los Angeles area that can do this work for me?

4) Also, I don't know if I mentioned this before, but I know that JL has a bass knob that is compatible with the 500.1. Do you guys suggest I get this as well?

That should be about it. Any and ALL help will be greatly appreciated. I would like to have this shit installed by this week.

`John
1) Do not use a 120 amp fuse, use a 50 amp fuse for protection. 500 watts would be fine with a 8awg power/ground wire!!

2) 15-20 foot RCA will be fine, measure for exact!

3) do you have tools, sealed sub enclosures are easy to build. Install it yourself you will learn a ton about car audio and its rather easy!! If not find a pre-fab, preferably sub zone on ebay.

4) Bass knob is not really needed, if it turns up the gain and not the bass boost then it would be alright.

 
I just came back from some shop...and the guy said that I don't need to get a box custom built. I gave him the specs of the box and he said he had a pre-built box that was 1.25^3 in volume, and as long as the volume is the same inside, everything is cool. Is this true?

Also, he told me that the box cost $130 and installation for sub/amp should cost $160. I didn't really know bout all that so I just bounced. What do you guys think?

 
Also, he told me that the box cost $130 and installation for sub/amp should cost $160. I didn't really know bout all that so I just bounced. What do you guys think?

Sounds like man **** to me. Go for it if you like it in the hiney.

Otherwise, read and search this forum and install and build yourself.

 
So I ended up getting the system installed for $75, and $200 for a custom built box, and a bass knob for $40 installed. On top of that, I had an Optima Yellow Top installed for $200 because my battery was pretty much dead, and the system ACTUALLY put it to rest. However, now I need alot of your guys help. Remember, my system is setup running off the stock HU as well.

Do any of you that have a 500/1 want to share with me what you have for your settings on the back? Like the Infrasonic Filter, Gain (Inp. Sens.), Amp LP Filter, etc etc.... I just want to make sure that the settings on my amp are ok so that I don't jack up the sub, and also so that I have it at it's optimum settings. Here is how it is currently setup:





















Basically I am looking for somebody to explain to me what these things are on the back of the amp so that I can set it up for myself. I looked up 'settings for 500/1 amp' and came across this:

OKTurn signal sensing off.

Turn off the infrasonic filter.

set the Amp LP filter mode/slope whcih has either 12 or 24db to 24db.

set the LP filter to 70 or 80 hz

set "Input Voltage" to low

set the input sensitivity as desired and or recommended

Do not worry about the PreAmp output section

Do you have the remote bass Knob for this amp? If you use it set the "Q" to 1.1

set the center freq to 40hz and using the knob will be you "DB" boost. This enables you to adjust the sub's volume with a quick touch of the knob. Be careful with this because it is a 15db boost which could clip the signal and damage your sub. If you do not have the remote knob I would turn the bass Eq off.
However mine is set-up very different from that, and I don't know if the installer did that on purpose or not, due to the fact that I am running off the stock HU. On the HU, he has it set with the Bass, Bal, and Fad set in the middle. If I change the Bal or Fad, the bass from the sub goes away. And if I change the Bass knob, it starts to sound funny, which is why it sounds fine in the middle.

As for the amp, I have the Amp LP Filter set to Off. When I go to the trunk, I can hear music from the sub, as well as bass. So I tried switching the Amp LP filter to 24db instead of Off, and the music went away and it was all bass, however if I play it a little louder, the sub sounds a little funny on certain songs. More like, it doesn't sound right, and I really hope I didn't jack up the sub.

Lastly, when it comes to the gain (Input Sens.), what is this supposed to be set at? Is it bad to have it all the way up? I figure I should put it kind of high, since I have the bass knob in my car, so that I can keep it turned down low for most of the time, and when I really want to bump, I can just turn the knob higher. Is that ok? I really am sorry that I don't know much about this stuff, but I thought that this is what these forums are for. So that people can help others out to learn. I'm just looking for some advice. Thanks.

 
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Dem1k

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