jl 1000/1 v2

You should be fine with the 1000/1. And yes there are other good options out there. Zapco, TRU Tech, Alpine, Memphis, if you can get ahold of some older PPI (PC and art series) those would be sweet, etc.

As stated by another poster, you could save some $ by going with a 1000/1v1.

The v1 and v2 Slash series amps are identical except for two features:

1.) The exterior appearance was redone, as evidenced by looking at photos of the two

2.) The v2's dissapate 50% more heat, I.E. they are more thermally efficient. That is NOT to say the v1's were not thermally efficient. They were and are. I had a 500/1v1 and 300/4v1 and they never got hot, cut out, went safe, etc. Even took a 16 hr road trip with the volume cranked pretty high most of the way and they never once quit or got hot to the touch. Only warm. The v2's are just more thermally efficient.

 
can't wait to get 1000/1 and two w6 v2 12' it's going to destroy my current setup two w1 v2's powered by jl A1400 amp

 
roughly how many db's do you think i should get out of the two w6's not shure what current system does it sounds pretty good but not real loud

 
roughly how many db's do you think i should get out of the two w6's not shure what current system does it sounds pretty good but not real loud
All gonna depend on the box, the vehicles, where your measuring... many many variables.

I'll give you an example I had that got metered. I had two 12W3v2's in seperate pre-fabbed ported enclosures. (I will never do this again, because all though it worked, an enclosure made specifically for the subs would have been ideal vs a generic ported enclosure).

I had a 500/1 powering both subs. This was setup in a 93 s-10 blazer. I hit 144 db's on the floor board. One run, just for fun a small USACi event a couple years ago. That mark stood all day in my class until the last car with two 15's and 900W amp went and hit like .3 or .4 of a db more taking 1st.

So, running double the power to a far more superior sub, I would imagine you will do at least as well as I did. Again this is in theory. Gonna depend on many factors.

If you are concerned with db's more than anything, there are other alternatives that will get you more than what a JL setup will. JL is not for SPL (allthough they can get loud). Their stuff is for SQ

 
All gonna depend on the box, the vehicles, where your measuring... many many variables.
I'll give you an example I had that got metered. I had two 12W3v2's in seperate pre-fabbed ported enclosures. (I will never do this again, because all though it worked, an enclosure made specifically for the subs would have been ideal vs a generic ported enclosure).

I had a 500/1 powering both subs. This was setup in a 93 s-10 blazer. I hit 144 db's on the floor board. One run, just for fun a small USACi event a couple years ago. That mark stood all day in my class until the last car with two 15's and 900W amp went and hit like .3 or .4 of a db more taking 1st.

So, running double the power to a far more superior sub, I would imagine you will do at least as well as I did. Again this is in theory. Gonna depend on many factors.

If you are concerned with db's more than anything, there are other alternatives that will get you more than what a JL setup will. JL is not for SPL (allthough they can get loud). Their stuff is for SQ
I totally agree...If you are really wanting SPL there are better out there for the money(Kicker, Fi, etc)... With JL there is going to be more of a SQ side to it, with the ability to still get pretty loud

 
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