JL 1000.1 Bass Cutting Out Low Voltage Blue Light Bass Cutting Out

[cemerton]

I have spent the last two years trying to determine why my bass cuts out sometimes.

First, the setup. Big Three already done. Almost ZERO flickering even at night. Factory battery & factory 100AMP Alternator (2011 Toyota Camry). 0 gauge to a distribution block and 4 gauge to the JL 1000/1. AMP tuned w/ voltmeter for a 12w7 (54.7 volts to a 3ohm load).

Most of the time my bass cuts out at mid-volume or higher. In addition, sometimes it sounds like I lose signal. Most of the time if the car is sitting still, there are less issues, but if it gets really bad, even sitting still the music sounds less clean and both AMPS start cutting out when they shouldn't. I have checked, rechecked and even replaced all the wires (except the main power). Still, the issue eventually returns. It's gotten worse over time...as if something is deteriorating.

The other day, I took the car out for several hours and I had the bass hitting SO HARD. No problems at all from any speaker. Then yesterday, the problem was back. Last night I broke down and ordered a Mechman high-output alternator. Perhaps my alternator is going out? Today, I had the factory battery replaced and there was no improvement at all. The blue Low Volt light would kick on which JL says occurs when there isn't enough power. Even if I connect the amp directly to a new battery and new ground with fresh 4 gauge I still get the blue light and the amp cuts out.

After the battery did not improve things, I experimented with adding more ground, bypassing the distribution block, bypassing the fuse...still the issue continued. I have wiggled all the AMP cables while the issue was happening with no effect at all. I have even mounted the 1000/1 in various positions, also no effect. I have started to think that the issue could be in my new Pioneer head-unit (the source). Or could it be my Camry's charging system...

Click to read more...

 

[cemerton]

Omg. The problem is worse this morning. Maybe the HO alternator will solve this once and for all.

 

[cemerton]

I brought the car to a shop today where we bypassed the head unit, used the same RCA's and connected an IPOD instead with a Y cable. We think we noticed some voltage fluctuation from the head units preamp outputs. I am going to rewire the head unit.

 

[cemerton]

The H/O alternator will be tomorrow. I am also bringing the AMP and sub to an authorized dealer tomorrow to have them test both. They might rewire the car if needed. I noticed that I am not the only person to deal with this issue. A closed thread describes the same issue and there was no solution mentioned: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifiers/534977-jl-1000-1-low-voltage-indicator-strange-circumstances.html

 

[loudlittlefvkus 10+ year member]

I have a similar problem with my slash v2 1000.1 amp, not with the blue light, but sometimes my bass hits really hard. Then ill go over a bump or something and itll cut out, and hardly be loud at all. And for being 1000 watts, its not as loud as I thought itd be.. I had a 125 watt jbl prepowered sub that could almost compare to it. And the subs I have now are in a custom box made for them. But anyways, everythings wired right, so I dont know what the issue is

 

[cemerton]

So today I went to a JL Signature Dealer where I was charged $500. What did they do? They told me that the problem was that my car wasn't producing the power for the amp. I asked them to rerun my big 3 and rewire my Alpine PDX and Jl 1000/1. I also had them run fresh speaker wire to my door speakers and make sure that there were no problems anywhere in the car.

I got home and my high-output alternator was here. I installed it. Then I took my car out on the interstate where I quickly learned that the amp was responding exactly the same as before. Blue light Low Voltage and cutting out whenever I get on it. Interestingly enough, right after starting the car after installing the HO alternator the system was hitting VERY HARD. Then....within 1.5 minutes, it was cutting out...just like before.

I am starting to think its a bad amp.

 

[cemerton]

My mechman alternator wasn't charging. I connected the oem harness in case it might help and the alternator smoked and burned up in 20 seconds. So back to the factory alternator until Monday when I can talk to Mechman.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Those amps are EXTREAMLY power hungrey. Thats the price you pay to make them do what they do. Its not really worth it in the long run unless you already have beefed up electrical. What did the shop do to warrent a $500 fee? sounds like you got really shafted, like take them to court shafted. You might want to contact JL about their dealer. Call the tech support and ask for Eric Cole

 

[cemerton]

The problem was the amp. I just bought a used amp and tested it in my car. It hits clean and hard on the factory alternator for hours (not minutes). So sometimes, a low-voltage light has nothing to do with your voltage. Also, don't always expect your Authorized JL Signature Dealer to help in this situation. They will probably misdiagnose the problem, take your cash, and leave you with a broken amp. My Tampa JL dealer is Maximun Audio Video (Dale Mabry Hwy). They did a great job with my window tinting, but proved to be a sad example of a JL Dealer who seemed comfortable milking my pocketbook, charging by the hour and riding the clock, and they did this after misdiagnosing the real problem. In my situation, it appeared that the dealer was exceptional at making money. Solid sales tactics--no doubt about it.

 

[cemerton]

What did the shop do to warrent a $500 fee? sounds like you got really shafted, like take them to court shafted. You might want to contact JL about their dealer. Call the tech support and ask for Eric Cole

Bottom-line. The Amp was the problem. The shop misdiagnosed it. And for all of you 1000/1 lovers out there, keep in mind that a blue light (Low V) is not always a problem with your install. The used 1000/1 I just bought is doing great and rather than installing it back on the sub enclosure (the JL dealer's recommendation), I installed this one flat on the trunk floor to make sure that vibrations don't damage another amp (assuming the JL Dealer installers don't understand or don't care about the long-term health of my 1000/1).

I had approached the dealer with the low-volt issue and told them that I was coming to them because they knew JL and I needed to know for sure what the problem was. They told me they could bench test the 1000/1 on a 70amp power supply if needed. While waiting for my amp to get checked, I made a list of things I wanted done if the amp was fine. If the amp was bad, I needed to use my cash on fixing/replacing the amp. The installer checked my power at the amp and the battery and said it was my car's charging system. I looked him in the eye and told him that my voltmeter and another shop indicated that my charging system is ok. He just stood there looking at me. Finally I accepted his diagnostic assessment and I told him that he is the JL expert. The 1000/1 manual says that you can't always see the drop with some voltmeters.

Since I had to trust the installer, I thought that the problem could have been my charging system or maybe my problem was the install. The installer said my install looked fine for what I was pushing. I said, well since my 1000/1 is fine, let's just make 100% sure my install is solid. Two guys milked the clock for a total of $350 labor. They charged me $150 for parts. I told the install manager that the work performed should not have taken 2 experienced installers 4 hours. He told me that his guys have to be paid for being at work and that I agreed to an hourly rate. He said the lead installer had 20 years of experience and was his fastest.

I looked at the Install Manager and Sales Rep and asked them, "Seriously. What was really done here? 2 Hours, I could see. But that isn't 4-hours worth of work." They were very courteous and friendly while accepting no responsibility for the clock riding. They also took no responsibility for the misdiagnosis of the amp.

 

[cemerton]

My recently purchased JL 1000/1 is still running strong. No cutting out. No blue light flashing. Plenty of power w/ chest punching bass. It's been 3 days since I installed it. Guess I will be sending in my old AMP to JL for repair. $160 is the flat rate repair for a non-warranty 1000/1. Anyone with JL 1000/1 questions, feel free to ask. I feel like a reluctant expert at this point.

 

[Kingstroker 10+ year member]

I would dump JL if I were you.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I would dump JL if I were you.

Find another 1000 watt amp that can do what that one does. Good luck.

 

[Kingstroker 10+ year member]

looks like he spent lots of money for nuthin, got took by JL dealers and installers, then had to buy another amp,

not good service or product

 

[macsdad 10+ year member]

Find another 1000 watt amp that can do what that one does. Good luck.

Who would want a 1000 watt amp to do what his did?