Is the Hifonics HFi1500 any good?

get a mb quart onyx 1500..... wayy more power than the hfi and real efficient . also made by maxxsonics //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
CEA means they do rated at 4ohm and also does not take into account distortion
Yes it does.

Copy/paste from CEA's site:

"Primary Output Power should, according to CEA2006, be measured with 14.4V DC supply, a 4-ohm load and with 1% or less total harmonic distortion in the output."
so its worthless.
So it's FAR from worthless.

I have no problems with the Hfi line. It's just like the Bx/Bxi lines from the last ~10 years that people were generally happy with. Over-rated, but close enough to be acceptable.

The brz's are just better.

 
Had a Hifonics BRZ 1200.1. Loved it! Pushed my CVR's at 900 rms @ 2 Ohms. I think the new ones are CEA compliant but don't quote me on that.
CEA means they do rated at 4ohm and also does not take into account distortion so its worthless.But if u go Hifo like said above BRZ or nothing.
Yes it does.
Copy/paste from CEA's site:

So it's FAR from worthless.

I have no problems with the Hfi line. It's just like the Bx/Bxi lines from the last ~10 years that people were generally happy with. Over-rated, but close enough to be acceptable.

The brz's are just better.
The bold parts of your statement generate a very flawed and contradictory statement.

I have went over this several times. I'm not sure how this keeps being brought up.

CEA means nothing what so ever. When we created it, it was with good intentions. However, there was never any guidelines set for testing procedures or anything. That means that the cheater amps we created CEA to take care of only made them "legit cheater amps" and then when the companies that pride themselves on not being entirely true to get customers found out how CEA works, they paid for the logo and that is what it became.

If you have the money to pay for said logo, you are now CEA certified and your amps are now "legit" according to you and that logo.

I can sell a logo too, would any companies like to be "pro-rabbit approved"? If so send me some money and you get your copy righted logo to place on your products.

 
i got a hfi3000d by hifonics pushing 2 american bass xfl's at 1ohm and this **** beats...i love the amp, the 1500's are good but honestly the brz and the brz elite are way better than the hfi but not bad at all for the money..i love hifonics

 
The bold parts of your statement generate a very flawed and contradictory statement.

I have went over this several times. I'm not sure how this keeps being brought up.

CEA means nothing what so ever. When we created it, it was with good intentions. However, there was never any guidelines set for testing procedures or anything. That means that the cheater amps we created CEA to take care of only made them "legit cheater amps" and then when the companies that pride themselves on not being entirely true to get customers found out how CEA works, they paid for the logo and that is what it became.

If you have the money to pay for said logo, you are now CEA certified and your amps are now "legit" according to you and that logo.

I can sell a logo too, would any companies like to be "pro-rabbit approved"? If so send me some money and you get your copy righted logo to place on your products.


How much Rabbit? Maybe it would help business pick up to be PRO-RABBIT COMPLIANT!!!!!! lol

 
It looks like this amplifier, just like all other newer mono maxxsonics amplifiers, will not sum the left and right signal on the RCA inputs. Instead you need to take one channel, split it with a Y-splitter. (Check the bottom of page 6 of the HFI manual). I personally won't not give my money to a company that makes you buy a Y-splitter so that it can save a few pennies on the pre-amp section. Besides, who said that all bass is recorded in mono? What about the 1% or so recordings that were not mixed this way? I still want to hear all of it!

 
I had the same question about the splitter on the input and was told to just hook the l and r up normally and I love mine. I'm running the smaller 1000d. I'm sure there are many better amps but I love the price and it woods good to me which is all that really matters to me. Too many times on here someone knocks another persons stuff but the user is the only opinion that matters.

 
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