Is my stock alternator enough?

I run about 2200w (that's actually what I run, no taking all rms ratings from each amp), and I don't drop below about 13.5 driving, but I also have a hell of a battery setup, but I have stock 130a alt.

 
Could you explain how an extra battery would prevent me from needing a new alternator? I need 1600rms, how do I know which battery to buy?
Allows for your amps to have more buffer room. Also having a battery only a few feet from your amps vs 10-15ft from your amps arguably helps too. In theory with burps/straight tone setups it won't help, but with music it helps a lot. Think about it, bass hits in music, then your alt has time to catch up with the voltage until next bass drop happens (even if its only a split second).

If you get a 2nd battery make sure you fuse it properly. Here's a good diagram on fusing 2nd battery.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/398527-dual-battery-wiring-tutorial-why.html

Also I would buy a deka 8a31 or 9a31 from bad4health, only 120 shipped:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/electrical-wiring-classifieds/506110-bad4healths-deka-c-d-batteries-thread.html

I run about 2200w (that's actually what I run, no taking all rms ratings from each amp), and I don't drop below about 13.5 driving, but I also have a hell of a battery setup, but I have stock 130a alt.
Same, Running an underrated 200w 4ch (50x4) with a 2500w mono amp on a stock 135a alt, rarely drop below 14v driving, big 3 and an extra batt in the trunk. Before getting 2nd battery it would drop between 11.5 and 12 (obviously not good)

Personally OP if you don't mind doing it in stages I'd recommend getting a 2nd battery first as it's usually cheaper. Get a DMM, measure before 2nd batt, afterwards measure again. I'd be with that amount of wattage a 2nd should do the trick.

 
Allows for your amps to have more buffer room. Also having a battery only a few feet from your amps vs 10-15ft from your amps arguably helps too. In theory with burps/straight tone setups it won't help, but with music it helps a lot. Think about it, bass hits in music, then your alt has time to catch up with the voltage until next bass drop happens (even if its only a split second).
If you get a 2nd battery make sure you fuse it properly. Here's a good diagram on fusing 2nd battery.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/398527-dual-battery-wiring-tutorial-why.html

Also I would buy a deka 8a31 or 9a31 from bad4health, only 120 shipped:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/electrical-wiring-classifieds/506110-bad4healths-deka-c-d-batteries-thread.html
In theory, wouldn't that battery eventually run out of power...if it was used long enough? (and risk damaging the amps) How long would that be?

What specs should I look for in a battery for a 1600 rms system?

 
all alternators do less at idle your stock is 110 but at idle it prob does 60 or what not, put your ac on then drive youll notice it will blow harder and get colder, more power you will be doubling your power save time and effort, its an easy change on the grand prix.

 
The reason adding a second battery will work over an alternator (if that is your decision) is because the amount of current the battery draws in order to charge is much less then the amount of current it is able to provide. Upgrading your alternator is better because it will provide the amp with 14 plus volts where as a battery will be 12.5-13 volts roughly, but it is also more expensive, if money is an issue, a second battery will be more then enough for your application.

 
Could you explain how an extra battery would prevent me from needing a new alternator? I need 1600rms, how do I know which battery to buy?
Is it okay if a ho 220 amp alternator to only put out 110 amps at idle?
I run about 2200w (that's actually what I run, no taking all rms ratings from each amp), and I don't drop below about 13.5 driving, but I also have a hell of a battery setup, but I have stock 130a alt.
In theory, wouldn't that battery eventually run out of power...if it was used long enough? (and risk damaging the amps) How long would that be?
What specs should I look for in a battery for a 1600 rms system?
As I said in my original post, in theory with a test tone / burp it would run out, but since music has periods (even a split second) it allows the alt to keep the batteries afloat.

Seems like a big gap to me to put out half the power at idle. For that price I'll admit it's cheap for a H/O alt and I'd almost go with that first. But you run the risk of buying a cheap H/O alt off ebay... I've heard good and bad things about them, some people dont ever have problems with them, some I've heard of multiple replacements from them. After fuses / cable a 2nd battery and that alt are about same price.

If you ever plan on upgrading (you probably will, most do) you'll likely need both, I'd start with whatevers cheaper and see how it does. I personally think either option will do ya for your current setup, but both will be necessary for any more.

 
all alternators do less at idle your stock is 110 but at idle it prob does 60 or what not, put your ac on then drive youll notice it will blow harder and get colder, more power you will be doubling your power save time and effort, its an easy change on the grand prix.
Then I wouldn't be able to play the system at idle? I read I needed around 160 amps.

 
My suggestion is to not spend money to upgrade an alternator by 30 amps. If your geoing to get an altnernator give yourself headroom. Otherwise just invest in a decent 2nd battery, that way if you ever get a new vehicle, you can take the battery with you no problem.

 
My suggestion is to not spend money to upgrade an alternator by 30 amps. If your geoing to get an altnernator give yourself headroom. Otherwise just invest in a decent 2nd battery, that way if you ever get a new vehicle, you can take the battery with you no problem.
The alternator would be upgraded by 110 amps.

 
You guys wanna know whats funny. My cuz's cavalier was so bad when i had my dual l7's with my mtx thunder 6500d amp. I had to make sure I was going fast enough to make it around corners so when i got to the corner I could throw the car in "n" so i could rev the engine and keep the power ratings up haha. Or it would of killed his car if I would come to an idling stop.

 
You guys wanna know whats funny. My cuz's cavalier was so bad when i had my dual l7's with my mtx thunder 6500d amp. I had to make sure I was going fast enough to make it around corners so when i got to the corner I could throw the car in "n" so i could rev the engine and keep the power ratings up haha. Or it would of killed his car if I would come to an idling stop.
That's not funny. That's terrible for the car, amps, and speakers.

 
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