Is it a faulty AMP?

[hussnainh8]

Hi,

If anyone can please help me with this I would be great full... My AMP is a Sound Stream P1.1500D and it is brand new received yesterday. The Subwoofer I am trying to power is a Pioneer TS-W3004SPL wired in parallel at 2 ohms. The AMP is capable of 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohms so I know that is correct.

I am using an 8 gauge wiring kit. The first time I connected it all up, the AMP was only getting around 10 volts. I removed the fuse and put it back and now it gets 12 volts but there was no output from the AMP itself. Spent 6 hours on this and then took it all inside and used an old car battery to power the AMP up and used my phone as the audio source... The AMP was making the sub woofer bump a little but if I turned the volume higher.. The AMP would cut out and go into protect mode. The sub woofer speaker wire was quite hot from the AMP side.

Took it all off again and put it back into the car and this time the protect mode stayed permanently and still no sound. Moved the speaker cable a little and smoke came from the ends of the cable from the AMP side as well as it being quite hot to touch. The AMP itself was quite hot too and there was no load on the AMP itself as the gain was barely turned up.

I have changed the ground point 2 times now >

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mkywgj2y0gvk4e5/Ground%20points.png?dl=0

I added more speaker wire so that the wire itself wouldnt get hot and that seems fine now but still no sound and the AMP stays in protect mode! Have tried my sub woofer with a different AMP in a different car and the sub works perfectly fine so it is not the problem.

12V and 12V remote are receiving 12volts so they cant be the issue too... Is it a faulty AMP?? The AMP is brand new and the company said they tested it at 1 Ohm load for 26 minutes before they sent it out so they reckon the AMP is completely perfect.. Could they have damaged something while disconnected the equipment? I am honestly not sure what is wrong with it and have spent more than 7 hours trying to get it to work and still nothing!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Please help me any one!

Thanks.

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[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

8awg is to small. Lucky you didn't catch the car on fire.

 

[hussnainh8]

8awg is to small. Lucky you didn't catch the car on fire.

So are you saying my AMP is not working because there is a 8 AWG setup rather than 4 or 0 AWG? If that is the case then I should wait to buy a 4 or 0 AWG and hook that up and everything should be working?? That doesnt explain why in my car the AMP stays on protect mode and the speaker cable is smoking and then in a different vehicle, the AMP stays in protect mode but the sub woofer bumps slowly in and out? The AMP is doing different things each time.. Whats the likely hood of the wiring kit being too small against the likely hood of the AMP being at fault? Should I return this AMP or buy a new wiring kit?

Thanks for the reply //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[hussnainh8]

Any body got any clue what to do???

I need an urgent reply because the seller has agreed to me sending the AMP to one of their repair companies and they will send it back to me ones it has been repaired. I agreed with it at the beginning but then thought about it and thought why do I want a repaired AMP if I paid for a brand new one? I will be contacting them again on Monday to say to return the AMP to them and request a full refund. If not then I will have to deal with it through PayPal, until then, I am trying to fix the fault but cant seem to get any thing out of the AMP so have left it till I get some more suggestions //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

Is their continuity at the output?

The amplifier has already exhibited poor DC voltage from what you posted which is not good.

 

[hussnainh8]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.. I haven't checked continuity however I did check AC voltage set at 200 and connected the Red to positive and black to negative on the speaker output terminals and the reading was reading 30 and jumping to 28 constantly, did not go to 0, This was when there where no RCA cables attached. That could explain why the speaker cables where getting very hot if I connected them to the terminals.. If it is not sound going through to the terminals then what else could it be that is causing smoke to come out of my speaker cables??

I think it is a dead AMP yet it was sold to me through ebay as BRAND NEW. Spoke to the guys on the phone and they told me they tested the AMP out for 26 minutes at 1 OHM load and it was running perfectly fine before they took all the cables of and sent it to dispatch. They said to send it to AMP doctor and they will repair the AMP for me and send it back which I agreed too at the start but then thought about it again during the day and thought why should I be getting a repaired AMP back when I paid for a brand new AMP? Waiting for Monday so I could say to them that I will send the AMP back to them and request a brand new AMP to be sent or a full refund to be sent to me, If they do not agree, then I will have to go through it with PayPal. I have also purchased 0 GAUGE wiring kit so if they send a new one out, I will have the correct wiring kit to power the AMP rather than 8 GAUGE wiring kit. Even using 8 GAUGE wiring, it should still stay on but this AMP is staying in protect mode.

Thanks.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

If you burned it up due to faulty power supply they shouldn't replace it give you money back. You broke it

 

[hussnainh8]

So what is making you think that I broke it? I connected it all up like I was supposed too and it was in protect mode so why are we coming to conclusions that I "broke" it?

They had also connected it up to "check" if it was functioning so why cant it be their fault? what if something like a short circuit occured while they where removing all the wires? I just dont see why you are pointing the finger at me and saying I broke it?

Is it because they are a company so they cant break anything because they are professional and im not or are you just pointing fingers for the fun of it?

 

[hussnainh8]

If you burned it up due to faulty power supply they shouldn't replace it give you money back. You broke it

Also, as to your previous reply telling me that I used 8 GAUGE wiring kit and that it could have caught the car on fire... I had already mentioned this to the company I purchased it from and they also said that they have used 8 GAUGE wiring kit a number of times as well to test it out and its fine to use 8 GAUGE rather than 4 GUAGE so by me checking everything constantly and spending 7 hours trying to get the AMP working, I want to know why you are saying I broke it? I came on here to ask why the AMP is acting like it is and staying in protect mode. Not for you to put the blame on me and say I broke it when I know I havent done any thing to harm it in any way. Have also removed an AMP the same day to test this AMP with that car and the same exact thing was happening so my wiring in my car is not faulty, it is the AMP. Who knew if they removed the wiring, it could have caused some damage yet your pointing the finger at me?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like to me user error.

P1.1500D | Soundstream

Amp clearly states will accept 4 gauge power/ground and 8 gauge spkr wire. I don't know what gave you the idea to think that it's ok to use 8 gauge power wire for a 1000-1500 watt amp. That 8 gauge power wire should have gotten warm to hot to touch.

That company you bought the amp from that told you that it's ok to use 8 gauge and they tested it using 8 gauge, they gotta be lying.

A number of possibilities could have gone wrong without you realizing it while installing the amp.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

Sounds like to me user error.
P1.1500D | Soundstream

Amp clearly states will accept 4 gauge power/ground and 8 gauge spkr wire. I don't know what gave you the idea to think that it's ok to use 8 gauge power wire for a 1000-1500 watt amp. That 8 gauge power wire should have gotten warm to hot to touch.

That company you bought the amp from that told you that it's ok to use 8 gauge and they tested it using 8 gauge, they gotta be lying.

A number of possibilities could have gone wrong without you realizing it while installing the amp.

It's ok to "Test" using small wire. Not ok to use it with small wire.

We have tested Taramp's HD8000 eX on outputs up to 2,200w using 4awg wire. I don't know what the power draw was but it's easy to assume it was close to 3,000w which would not be considered safe either.. but in testing, it's fine.

You can actually turn a 12000D korean amp on and keep it on using 18awg wire for power and ground. Actually using it for output will be hard but for testing, conductor size isn't as important.

 

[hussnainh8]

The company I bought the AMP from is the one who told me it is fine to use 8 GAUGE wire.. How could me using the 8 GAUGE wire be the fault when the AMP never gave any sound output from the start? I should have still got some sound out from it in the first 5 to 10 minutes but I didn't. The 8 GAUGE wire did not get hot at all.. The speaker wire did which I then crossed the wires together to make it a bigger gauge wire and that didn't smoke up or anything after crossing the wires. Even with the 8 GAUGE wire, I should have been able to test it even if it would have lasted me 5 minutes but as soon as I connect the 8 GAUGE wires to it, it stays in protect mode.

I am going to send it back to the company as it is covered under 1 year warranty as well however who knows the damage could have occurred from the companies side too? When I got it and connected it up using 8 GAUGE, it went straight into protect mode so who knows if it was my fault or the companies. Yes, I spoke to the company and asked them "Maybe it is that I am using 8 GAUGE wiring kit"? They said "That shouldn't be a problem because we use 8 GAUGE wire many times for big AMPs and it would still output sound for at least 10 minutes before the wires start heating up".

 

[hussnainh8]

I have not "used" it with small wire yet. If I didn't get any sound from it in the first place then how am I using it? I connected the 8 GAUGE wiring kit up which was already installed in my car previously and the AMP went straight into protect mode. Hardly even used the 8 GAUGE for any thing other than power to the AMP. There was no load on the AMP when powering it using 8 GAUGE wiring kit.

I will send it back to the company. Starting to question how long this £200 AMP will even last if it has broken in the first day so I am starting to question if I should go for something else instead.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

hussnainh8, why do you insist on repeating the same things over and over again? We get it. The amp doesn't work for ya.

Back to the 8 gauge wiring, I wouldn't myself use it to test anything. If the amp has 4 gauge outputs, why not take advantage of it and use it? That's up to the users descretion.

Also I might add, that ground doesn't look like a solid one either. Might wanna find a better suitable ground (to chassis) if/when you get another amp.

 

[hussnainh8]

hussnainh8, why do you insist on repeating the same things over and over again? We get it. The amp doesn't work for ya.
Back to the 8 gauge wiring, I wouldn't myself use it to test anything. If the amp has 4 gauge outputs, why not take advantage of it and use it? That's up to the users descretion.

Also I might add, that ground doesn't look like a solid one either. Might wanna find a better suitable ground (to chassis) if/when you get another amp.

I was not repeating myself, I was replying to your posts through my phone and it would not let me quote your reply thats why it seems like I am repeating things. In reality, my first reply was to you and my second reply was to "shizzzon".

I couldn't use 4 GAUGE as my car was installed with 8 GAUGE a while ago and it would mean buying 4 GAUGE wire then re routing that as well into the car. By the time I get the 4 GAUGE and re route it, I wouldn't have any idea if the AMP itself is working or not for another week or two. I have now purchased 0 GAUGE wire from eBay and waiting for its arrival, will not be testing any AMP's until that wiring kit is installed in the car. If my wiring kit caused this brand new AMP to burn out then I have learnt a lesson.. but I really doubt it that the AMP burned out because I was using 8 GAUGE wire rather than 4 GAUGE.

As for the ground point, I have tried 3 different ground points, have now found another one on the left tail light which has a separate bolt so I have grounded it to there. Dont want to bother drilling the chassis.