Is a Capacitor worth it?

hey midnight, how did those caps i sent u work out for u?
Just fine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I am only using the 1.5F one. The other one is just sitting, I don't need to use both. For those wondering, I did not add it to solve any issues... I have the big 3 done, diehard platinum (same as odyssey PC1400) under the hood, and my 110A alternator handles my zapco AG750 and AG360 just fine. I just like having a solid, low ESR cap on the front end of my system for filtering and voltage stabilization purposes. The Zapcos certainly have enough capacitance on their own, but it is not going to hurt to add a little more! Plus the price was right, thanks FurbiesAndBeans //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Just fine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I am only using the 1.5F one. The other one is just sitting, I don't need to use both. For those wondering, I did not add it to solve any issues... I have the big 3 done, diehard platinum (same as odyssey PC1400) under the hood, and my 110A alternator handles my zapco AG750 and AG360 just fine. I just like having a solid, low ESR cap on the front end of my system for filtering and voltage stabilization purposes. The Zapcos certainly have enough capacitance on their own, but it is not going to hurt to add a little more! Plus the price was right, thanks FurbiesAndBeans //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
lol np

 
Please stop posting this false info. Its funny how the noobs believe you.
12.6v is a batts floating voltage. Its called a "floating voltage" because it CAN and DOES discharge at voltages above that.

You are the one that needs to go take classes, because you don't understand ohms law and how voltage and current relate to each other.
No that's not why it's called a float charge. It cannot and does not discharge above that. You literally made that lie up to back your idiotic claims. I OBVIOUSLY understand the things you said I didn't because I have adequately explained them. IF you have read all of my posts you would know that... either that or you didn't recognize it because you know nothing and just think you do. You shouldn't have argued. You have been proven wrong and you look foolish. Unless you can provide some sort of evidence that you know more about electronics than every electronics book, technician, reference then you lose. At this point, I have quoted your idiotic posts. I have proven them wrong beyond a shadow of a doubt. It's up to you to find some sort of evidence that you know more than anyone else ever has or you will continue to be laughed at by the rest of the people that know what they are talking about.

 
Caps are in no way meant to improve the capability of a car's electrical system.

If your car had electrical deficiencies before before Caps, it will have them After caps. Caps are only to minimize the effects of voltage spikes to give a cleaner more even response.

The reason you don't see them in SPL setups is because these Multi-Kilowatt systems would discharge the Caps instantly from power drain anyway making them useless. SPL systems take the electrical systems of their cars to the limit.

SQ systems however need to be well within the bounds of their electrical system, as such, each little improvement on voltage "ripple" or drop, yields a flatter response.

They are different than Batteries in that they are much quicker to charge and discharge making them more suitable than batteries alone for countering very tiny voltage spikes and drops, which are generally not any concern in SPL systems.

I used a 25 farad Hybrid Cap one, (a mix of extremely fast and medium speed discharge rate caps. Improved my SQ Noticeably and actually eliminated some interference.

 
No that's not why it's called a float charge. It cannot and does not discharge above that. You literally made that lie up to back your idiotic claims. I OBVIOUSLY understand the things you said I didn't because I have adequately explained them. IF you have read all of my posts you would know that... either that or you didn't recognize it because you know nothing and just think you do. You shouldn't have argued. You have been proven wrong and you look foolish. Unless you can provide some sort of evidence that you know more about electronics than every electronics book, technician, reference then you lose. At this point, I have quoted your idiotic posts. I have proven them wrong beyond a shadow of a doubt. It's up to you to find some sort of evidence that you know more than anyone else ever has or you will continue to be laughed at by the rest of the people that know what they are talking about.
Well you claim to know everything, but you don't even understand the fundamentals of ohms law. I'm not going to keep arguing with you because you can't provide any logical rebuttals except "I'm right and you're wrong". Its like arguing with a little kid.

Its ok though, keep trolling this site with your internet degree, it will be entertaining...

 
Well you claim to know everything, but you don't even understand the fundamentals of ohms law. I'm not going to keep arguing with you because you can't provide any logical rebuttals except "I'm right and you're wrong". Its like arguing with a little kid.
Its ok though, keep trolling this site with your internet degree, it will be entertaining...
You say I claim to know everything. I'd like you to find the post where I made that statement and quote it here. Otherwise you've just proven yourself to be a liar. Next, prove to me that I don't understand the fundamentals of ohms law. Quote something I said that shows I don't know, and then post a link to a site that proves that I was wrong.

I don't need to post rebuttals. I have been saying the truth all along. I can back it up with facts. I'm just waiting on you to post some sort of facts other than "I'm right and you're wrong". You haven't done that. You have only lied over and over again. Until you can do the above, you will not have proven me wrong because... quite honestly I'm not wrong.

 
After some primitive research (i.e. "Googling"), I've got this for what a "float charge" is:

"Float charge is when the controller holds the battery at a lower charge voltage and trickles a small amount of current into the battery, to just maintain it at full charge."

...also...

"Just what is float charge? It is simply a method for maintaining the charge in a cell or battery - float charging is used anywhere that batteries are used infrequently, but must be kept at full charge when not in use."

So, I dunno how that fits in with the above debate, but there it is.

 
Do what works for you OP. If you think that the cap will be better than the extra battery, that's your decision. If caps are working for eCrack, then he should let them continue to do so. I'd love to see video evidence, but no one can really prove whether they do or don't. I used one back in the day for a while and it did nothing. Actually the reading from it was off as well.

 
smoka says: Please stop posting this false info. Its funny how the noobs believe you.

12.6v is a batts floating voltage. Its called a "floating voltage" because it CAN and DOES discharge at voltages above that.

You are the one that needs to go take classes, because you don't understand ohms law and how voltage and current relate to each other.

/smoka

After some primitive research (i.e. "Googling"), I've got this for what a "float charge" is:
"Float charge is when the controller holds the battery at a lower charge voltage and trickles a small amount of current into the battery, to just maintain it at full charge."

...also...

"Just what is float charge? It is simply a method for maintaining the charge in a cell or battery - float charging is used anywhere that batteries are used infrequently, but must be kept at full charge when not in use."

So, I dunno how that fits in with the above debate, but there it is.
It fits into the debate because you caught smoka in a lie. Thank you.

 
Do what works for you OP. If you think that the cap will be better than the extra battery, that's your decision. If caps are working for eCrack, then he should let them continue to do so. I'd love to see video evidence, but no one can really prove whether they do or don't. I used one back in the day for a while and it did nothing. Actually the reading from it was off as well.
What exactly is it that you think I'm arguing? Maybe you should go back and read all of my posts in this thread.

 
And just to put it out there...are some of you saying that adding a cap will clean up noise in the system, if there is any? I think y'all referred to it as "A/C Ripple". //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
And just to put it out there...are some of you saying that adding a cap will clean up noise in the system, if there is any? I think y'all referred to it as "A/C Ripple". //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
If you're talking about engine noise then no. AC ripple on a line that is supposed to be pure DC is considered "noise".

 
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