interesting read....

huh ..well ill be damned ......after i read the op my brain hurt and i automatically had a billy madison rant flash back
32kw of BOSS 2ch power, you mirin brah //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

 
No words for how stupid the person that originally wrote that is. He clearly has absolutely no idea of simple electrical fundamentals.
theres some real ignorance going on on whatever website this came out on...
I don't know about all that. The dude seems to know his stuff if you read many of his articles.

 
Tis all true, I changed stock wiring from 4g to 16g and took out stock batt and put in a AA. Now able to run 32kw with no problems....
And youre gettin a 1000000 dbeeeez right //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Hahaha.

Really though, I dunno when people will start to believe TO MAKE POWER, YOU NEED POWER!!! **** IS IT THAT HARD TO UNDERSTAND???!??

 
on a side note, I had no idea that when the engine is running, all power is supplied by the alternator. I don't know much about cars.....

Now wouldn't this mean that it's more important to have a HO alternator or an extra alternator rather than have more batteries?

 
regardless if u have a system that draws more amp than ur alt +batts are capable of...u can do 2 things try to remedy the problem by adding batts or if its still too large of a draw u can get a ho alt ..granted with a ho alt u might not need as big of a battery bank. no one runs a ho alt with stock battery and wiring

 
The fellow that wrote everything up for the BCAE actually is VERY knowledgeable. But I feel like when he wrote lots of the stuff on the website it was very long ago, it's kind of funny reading through it all. Some stuff seems completely up do date, others seem ancient lol. Lots of it also seems to be written for those who do not know what they're doing, with a tiny system, to where it would not matter if they do some modifications or not. Moreover, to where I would not trust him/her to even upgrade the grounds. It is on us who are enthusiasts to know what is/isn't fact or what should be done.

 
The fellow that wrote everything up for the BCAE actually is VERY knowledgeable. But I feel like when he wrote lots of the stuff on the website it was very long ago, it's kind of funny reading through it all. Some stuff seems completely up do date, others seem ancient lol. Lots of it also seems to be written for those who do not know what they're doing, with a tiny system, to where it would not matter if they do some modifications or not. Moreover, to where I would not trust him/her to even upgrade the grounds. It is on us who are enthusiasts to know what is/isn't fact or what should be done.
maybe but old or not no where in his rambling did he say anything correct as it pertains to car audio world

 
BTW OP -

It is actually far from useless, but really does it only shine when running big power; to where the stock grounds and cables cannot support the added draw of current. Most people go an install some garbage that will only draw say about or less than 40 amperes, so no modifications need to be done really. However, the Big 3 cannot hurt, ever. It was actually something that increased power output and fuel mileage on a lot of Subarus '03-'05. Crazy huh? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Having extra batteries is a big deal, but only when the stock battery and alternator cannot support the added draw of the system. And, when a car is idling, the alternator is not producing the current, nor voltage (both matter significantly and people always leave it out), so it needs to be spun/revved up to actually produce some larger amounts of "usable" current. Batteries over the HO alternator are what matter more, because many of us (like myself) have a system that will draw WELL more than what our alternators can produce by themselves. Having more batteries creates essentially "a buffer," from the system's major current draw from killing the alternator by drawing from it solely, once the stock battery per se, is drained to a point below usable voltage can be provided by it. Unfortunately there is no alternator out there that will supply the ~800A of current draw that is capable of being pulled by my system, so the batteries need to make that up, and even though my alternator is capable of producing about 250 amperes, it will only do so when spun up more than idle. However, a smaller pulley remedies that some. Err, just ask if I left anything open-ended or unfinished with an explanation, I'm in class writing and attempting to pay attention simultaneously.

 
i read it just fine ..but if people who dont know what they are doing and listen to things like this they will only be taking steps backwards
*Sigh*

No they won't, most will not act on them; especially because they will not have the slightest as to what is true or not or what to pursue. Nor will they upgrade to a point to where much is needed. And most POS install places will have them covered, because everything they say is the gold to them. LOL.

 
BTW OP -
It is actually far from useless, but really does it only shine when running big power; to where the stock grounds and cables cannot support the added draw of current. Most people go an install some garbage that will only draw say about or less than 40 amperes, so no modifications need to be done really. However, the Big 3 cannot hurt, ever. It was actually something that increased power output and fuel mileage on a lot of Subarus '03-'05. Crazy huh? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Having extra batteries is a big deal, but only when the stock battery and alternator cannot support the added draw of the system. And, when a car is idling, the alternator is not producing the current, nor voltage (both matter significantly and people always leave it out), so it needs to be spun/revved up to actually produce some larger amounts of "usable" current. Batteries over the HO alternator are what matter more, because many of us (like myself) have a system that will draw WELL more than what our alternators can produce by themselves. Having more batteries creates essentially "a buffer," from the system's major current draw from killing the alternator by drawing from it solely, once the stock battery per se, is drained to a point below usable voltage can be provided by it. Unfortunately there is no alternator out there that will supply the ~800A of current draw that is capable of being pulled by my system, so the batteries need to make that up, and even though my alternator is capable of producing about 250 amperes, it will only do so when spun up more than idle. However, a smaller pulley remedies that some. Err, just ask if I left anything open-ended or unfinished with an explanation, I'm in class writing and attempting to pay attention simultaneously.
this is a much more accurate description...but the way the op quoted was horribly inaccurate and confusing and asinine to even the novice of car audio noob

 
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