installation help plz

yeah the sub is really nice to say the least its just so underpowered... it isnt even getting 1/4 of what it can handle. But lsten to this, before circuit city went out of business i found this sub. it was mismarked as the 200rms model. so i paid 45 plus tax for it lol. Unfortunately i thought this so called "2000 watt" lanzar was going to make this thing bang and i was so dissapointed. But like i said oh well it was free. pm me so info about this amp you have. ive accually been looking since yesterday checking crutchfield and ebay. if you got somthing nice for the price i might bite

 
MB Quart ONX1.1500D - ONYX Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier/Amp

check around, I think they have online coupons available to ca.com members...there are a few online deals. Look to the classifieds here too, if you think you might save a few bucks...a lot of times you can buy shipped with Pay Pal. Just make sure you do Class D to get the most for your $. The amp i showed will do rated....best advice is put up a thread asking about rated power and efficiency if you find something in your budget you like. About a 1000watts rms at 2ohms.

 
im a little iffy on the brand, but with such a high number of 5 star reviews i guess ill just go wit the audience on this one and buy it. im not seeing them rms numbers(at that ohm) or fuse wattages this one has for the price(180 is as high as i can go). plus its small which is nice.

 
that quart is about the only thing that will get you what you need at that price range..1000w rms @ 2ohms and 140a fusing. Fusing can be deceiving, but is a very useful tool to at least let you know the amp is built to produce the rms wattage. The only other is the HiFonics Zeus or the AudioPipe APSM 1500, but the build on those are alot more iffy.

 
awsome then the quart it is. cant wait for it to come in already =). i guess i know what im doing on monday my next day off =). this week is gonna drag lol

 
i just hope the dimming i get isnt going to be too bad. but this car has a beast of a battery in it. diehard gold. its huge. the current set up hasnt made the voltage gauge move but i know this one will lol

 

I don't recall if he say so, but fuse at the battery the wire coming from the Alternator AND the power + wire gong to the amp(s)

This is something you will have to do with anything over a true 400-500 watts..your battery might be enough with the amp you are looking at, especially at 2 ohms, you should be 75-80% efficient and this will help you out a lot.

The big 3 wiring can be 2/0ga at minimum up to 0 ga if you think you will be going bigger down the road and dropping that amp to 1 ohm.

 
hmm since the battery is located in the trunk in my car. im going to have to use the jumper connections under the hood. be slightly different but the idea will be the same. guess ill have to run that power wire through the car after all. ill wait till the amp comes in and test it out. quack your the man bro thanks for all your help.

 
hmm since the battery is located in the trunk in my car. im going to have to use the jumper connections under the hood. be slightly different but the idea will be the same. guess ill have to run that power wire through the car after all. ill wait till the amp comes in and test it out. quack your the man bro thanks for all your help.
Think of this..your car's stock electrical is not designed to support the strain of a system that requires the additional amperage. You should use very heavy wire from the Alternator itsself to the battery and battery to ground, and also engine block to ground. If you have much larger wiring for positive and smaller for ground (or vice-versa), the system will suffer and you will not have the equal current flow required.

All you are doing is reducing the factory wiring resistance to allow the charging system to keep the battery charge up to par while your system is banging away.

ps the Alternator wire has to be fused close to the Alternator. This should be the case anyway,if your battery is in the back.

Amp Installation Kits, HDMI Cables

 
well amp came in today. Not working atm =/. didnt have much time to play around with it tho. amp is getting power but no sound at all is coming from the subs. i read a similar thread about it here http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifiers/529418-bad-amplifier-mb-quart-q1-1500d-3.html . Tommorrow i will recheck the sub wiring in the box wired like this http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg. hope it isnt doa like this guys. anyways ill get back to it tommorrow. it has the same symptoms atm. power light comes on but no sound. not like i had origionally w the lasar, the sub is not moving at all

 
this amp seems to be doa =(. did a bunch of tests with my volt meter. amp has power, fuses gave power but nothing coming out of the amp. guess ill have to rma it and wait for another to come in.

 
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