infinity

[trungthiendo 10+ year member]

if you are gonna get two sets of 99 dollar speakers, i say get a great pair of front components...

cdt, infinity kappas...etc

the back speakers are really only for rear fill, if your front stage is awesome, you won't need it unless its a huge car.

 

[fossil99ca 10+ year member]

i was originally planning on getting a kenwood x579 and two sets of 99 dollar speakers.
thats about $400. the kenwood is nice cause has room for expansion. 3 sets of preamps, etc.....

im just going with cdts. Plus, the cdt comps and the cdt midranges are only about 30 dollars more than the 2 sets of coaxials. The cdt will sounds a whole lot better then the coaxials even if the cdts are not amped.

I disagree:

I would speculate that every good review you’ve heard on the CDT’s are when they are properly amped. Point-out some posts/reviews were some guy says, “I’m under powering my speakers by a 1/4 and everyone just can believe how amazing they are. Why do they even sell amps in the first place when you can run everything off your HU?” You can’t change the laws of physics.

Running 90 RMS speakers, which could probably handle more than that, off a 22 Watt RMS head unit will not produce the same results. You’ll just end up turning the HU volume up way too high to get any volume out of them, producing less than desired results and maybe damaging them or the HU. Again, I would speculate that they would not sound much better than the infinity component speakers. The highs will sound a lot better at first (then stock) thinking you made the right decision but the mid-base wont have the power or precision they’re capable of.

You’re only as good as the weakest link. Do yourself a favor and at least plan for an amp upgrade and watch your HU volume in the meantime. When doing the HU/speaker install it might be cheaper to run RCA’s and speaker wire now, than tearing apart your dash/doors twice.

Personally, I would save on the rear drivers and get a 4 channel amp (something like 4 x 90 watts RMS @ 4 ohms). It will be more expensive (or look for used) but this way you power your front speakers at rated power. This will negate the need for rear speakers so much. You can run your rear stock speakers off the HU @ 22 watts for fill at the same time if you want. In time you can expand, you will be either able to drive good rear speakers at 90 watts x 2 or you can bridge the 2 rear channels for a sub at about 360 watts. Make sure you have a LPF on the deck or amp. I’d go for the sub to fill the lower end, sounds better, wont wreck your front sound stage and it shakes your mirrors and impresses your friends.

Sorry for the long post.

 

[TwistedVisions 10+ year member]

I agree with fossil but how can you damage your hu or speakers by underpowering them?? I mean they do distort if you turn them up to loud but don't you blow a speaker by giving it more watts then it can handle?

 

[Redford 10+ year member]

the HU amp will start clipping if you turn it too high and that can cause the internal amp to blow as well as the speakers.

 

[fossil99ca 10+ year member]

You can damage the speakers with too little power, here’s how. I don’t pretend to be an expert, just moderately well informed, so read this.

http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t20

It doesn’t say much about the HU amp being damaged but it can’t be good for it, running it past its intended output (heat too). I didn’t say he can’t use the HU to power the speakers, but I believe it is just so tempting to turn the volume higher and higher because the speakers can take it, until you over drive the amps in the HU. Especially running mp3’s like he will, which can be recorded with all different input signals.

As well, the listening enjoyment will be hampered IMO, if you can’t use the speakers to their full potential. Its like, “I just spent $300 for great speakers that I can only listen to at $100 speaker levels”, if you know what I mean. Then buy $100 speakers.

Yes, you do blow speakers if you give them too much power. But this is not what the problem is here. It’s better to have more power available that you don’t use, than not having enough power in the first place.

It’s like a car engine. If you only have 4-cyl, 100HP engine (amp) but you drive the car at full throttle all the time to get where you are going, then engine will not last long. If you have a V-8, 200HP engine (amp) and drive it half throttle all the time then the engine will last a long time. That’s how I see it. You don’t stress the equipment and over work it even if you have more power than you need, when you don’t use it! Now if the transmission (speaker) is only designed for 100 HP and you drive your 200HP engine at full throttle, you’ll blow your transmission (speaker).

If he doesn’t drive his amp at full all the time he will be fine but it’s money wasted IMO to use the speaker to a ¼ of it’s potential.

 

[TwistedVisions 10+ year member]

I see what your saying fossil that was very helpful that article //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. I didn't know what clipping was really until i got on this forum i mean i have turned my head unit volume up to 20 and thats when it starts to clip but now i just keep it around volume 15 where its clear and i can hear the bass without distortion. I mean it said"eventually blow your speakers" i dont' know who could stand listening to there speakers clipping over a period of time i know i couldn't stand it thats why i keep my volume lower. I be glad when i can afford my 4 channel amp so my 300 dollar speakers don't go to waste(not using them to there full potential)

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

what kind of vehicle, sounds like a "burb" or "hoe"

 

[allamricn]

I had the same depth issues in my Xterra. I went with the Polk db6500s for my fronts and couldn't be happier. I know they aren't MB Quarts, Focals, etc, but I budgeted everything, and came across a really good deal on them.

As for rears, I totally have depth/tweeter protrusion issues. I am looking for rear fill as well, and might go with the CDT CL-6 coaxials for rear fill. I am running 55x4 Alpine MRV-F340 to my speakers and RF 3001 mono amp for my RF Punch Hx2 sub. I have never heard CDT but I certainly have read that they are awesome for rear fill and they are in the RMS specs of what my Alpine is giving out. I think the CDT coaxials for rear fill are like $50 on the Zeb.com too.

 

[TwistedVisions 10+ year member]

What are you talking about supa C?

 

[95RAM 10+ year member]

yeah, if you keep your volume at a volume where the hu amp is not clipping, then i am willing to bet that the cdts will sound better then the coaxials.

 

[fossil99ca 10+ year member]

yeah, if you keep your volume at a volume where the hu amp is not clipping, then i am willing to bet that the cdts will sound better then the coaxials.

But if they both (coaxial or components) start Popping and Distorting before you realize their full listing bliss, than they both sound like sh**. One will just sound less crappy than the other.

You’ll have your volume set on that quite song just perfect and then the drum solo kicks in (Pink Floyd comes to mind) and then BOOMMMCKACK....BOOMKKEKR.....BOOMKKKKKERR. You’ll be reaching for the volume dial faster than a lit cigarette you just dropped on the carpet of your brand-new ride (not saying you smoke).

It’s all about the weak link. Do what you think best.